[Carnage]

Sorry for being cheeky but do I know you from mile end or the castle, im trying to put a face to your name, I climb down at mile end alot, and use to set the bouldering  at westway

Don't think so. I climb at the Castle most of the time and rarely venture to Mile End. I mostly do Saturdays on SS but don't get out as much as I'd like to. But all thats gonna change soon............oh yes.........

[neil@canaryclimbs]

the slab right of honeycomb wall? do you mean wall with writing on it "wishful thinking" if so font 6b but will feel harder at the mo as it needs cleaning up properly. i saw some chalk on the crimps tonight.[/quote]


no not that one, I too saw the chalk MMMMM I meant by the steps way to the left of that the slab with the crack, jump of from the break, not pos to top out due to mud.

will you be around tomorow, im going to head to eridge i think late morning early afternoon, or any good problems you can point me at would be good

neil

[Carnage]

Neil,

I guessing the one you mean is 'Whiff Whaff' or whatever its called. An old route, recently cleaned. Was given Uk 6b+ in the JW guide. Top needs cleaning (if possible) for the solo.

[ian h]

yeah previous mentioned sounds like wiff whaff to me as well.

did a new dyno today at high rocks

"final destination" is a huge dyno between routes of 181 ides of march and 182 lunge 'n' shelf. dynos from crack and low jug hold to the sloping top out.

grade font 7c+

[unclesomebody]

holy cow!  7C+ dyno!  :shock: That sounds fucking hard to me.  Good effort man... perhaps I'll come and fall off it when I come down!  Why is it hard?  ie. Shit holds to hang, long way, crap starting holds, crap feet, or a combination of all the above?  any pics/vids?

[ian h]

holy cow!  7C+ dyno!  :shock: That sounds fucking hard to me.  Good effort man... perhaps I'll come and fall off it when I come down!  Why is it hard?  ie. Shit holds to hang, long way, crap starting holds, crap feet, or a combination of all the above?  any pics/vids?

although the dyno is off good holds it is a long distance, however the real difficulties lie in catching the top which is mega sloping (this is where it gets the grade).

it is way harder than any other dyno i have ever done, and i fell off of it soooooooo many times. although i think if i showed someone the the fine details it could be done in much quicker.

pics should be on there way, as i will be back down there tomorrow to take a few.

[Carnage]

Good effort Ian,

Now just wait for Ches to downgrade it.  :wink:  

[ian h]

Good effort Ian,

Now just wait for Ches to downgrade it.  :wink:  

yeah would be really interested to see ches on it, see what he thinks of it. if i can sort out my shifts for sat maybe we can get on it.

although went to high rocks tonight and the place was soaked, must have had masses of rain even happy days was wet.

so we ended up moving onto bowles. i got a nice photo sequence of ian s on his new sit start for the fandango wall, will try and put them on here at some point. :wink:

[neil@canaryclimbs]

me and the old springy legs hiomself tim 9foot 7 will be high rocks mid afternooon sat, very keen to give this dyno a go, we love dynos, will be at eridge early part of the morning for a warm up, can you point out some problems for us to try, 7a to 7c bracked would be good


cheers

[ian h]

me and the old springy legs hiomself tim 9foot 7 will be high rocks mid afternooon sat, very keen to give this dyno a go, we love dynos, will be at eridge early part of the morning for a warm up, can you point out some problems for us to try, 7a to 7c bracked would be good


cheers

the watchtower 7b+ left of prowess.
samsana 7a+ slab left of parisian affair without aretes!

both at eridge

they should keep you going but make sure you have enough left for final destination.

[neil@canaryclimbs]

the watchtower 7b+ left of prowess.
samsana 7a+ slab left of parisian affair without aretes!

both at eridge

they should keep you going but make sure you have enough left for final destination.[/quote]


cheers been trying that slab, hard move of the pocket.


were does the watchtower go to ( the top) and were does it start


cheers

[Carnage]

Bummer, was going to get down to High Rocks on Saturday but I'm still packing up for my big move so it looks like I ain't gonna make it.
   
Shame, would've been good to meet you guys.

[ian h]

The watch tower goes from a stand start under the left side of the prow. It then climbs straight up to top out via a flake

[neil@canaryclimbs]

Hi ian, just got back from high rocks, rest day today, but your dyno looks sweet, cant wait to get on it tomorow, Reminds me  a bit like smatch at font. will give you a report tomorow night

[ian h]

little bit like smatch but much harder :wink:

[ian h]

back from high rocks today.

despite the sweltering heat jim w made 2nd ascent of final destination. in full on top boy style.

 :twisted:  :  :twisted:

[neil@canaryclimbs]

does anyone know what these problems are at eridge, we want to know grades, for the straight up and the traverse

[jimfish]

. i did that problem with ian h ages ago with a foot less start it can not be any harder than 7a i hope that has been a help . i am not suer about the other one but i will have ago and get back to you

[neil@canaryclimbs]

cheers mate, we thought around 7a/7a+, the traverse is a dream of mine tried it twice now, do the sit start, then follow the break all the way until you can step off on the lefty hand side, dont start going to high into the good pockets, be interesting to see what some one else thinks of it. personally i think its ard

[ian h]

is this the barrel?

as jim said the straight up has been done at 7a from a footless start. although can feel a little bit harder as it can get a little bit sandy.

the traverse has also been done, i think by pete z, however left unnamed and ungraded, i do know it was done from left to right though. never tried it but also rekon it is fairly hard.

[ian h]

possible new problem done at eridge last tuesday, just waiting to here here back from rob mazinke as to weather it takes a different line to his route "dr kemps cure"

i think the new line "ground force" goes just to the right of this and goes at at a reasonable grade of font 6b+/6c

first ascent by andy o conor then repeated by myself and jim w.

nice and easy but good quality and should be on everybodys eridge circuit

[jimfish]

well cool line if it is new but be careful of the leg breaking tree stump as ian found out (did break leg but f**ked ankle)