[ian h]

That is exactly how it is done

i was not down tuesday but will be having a try this evening

[ian h]

repeated "the fonz" quality confirmed as anybody who has been on happy days could probably imagine

did not get on whiff waff feeling lazy. but i got a couple of new lines in mind i gonna clean up a bit tomorrow. :D

[Tim Heaton]

Please could someone recommend me some problems to attempt on the  Southern Sandstone.
I was thinking of going down maybe next week and don't really know the area very well although I should have someone to show me round a bit. I might have a chance at anything up to about 7c but don't really mind about the grade so much so long as they are nice problems. Thanks,

Tim

[Carnage]

Tim, depending on the weather, go to High Rocks (you must call and book in advance) and try,

Brevna Sit Start,
The slab to the right
Ches' Dyno
The dyno to the right of the above
The arete right of Kinda Lingers (jump off at the pockets)
Kinda Lingers sit or jump start
Bowling Green arete
7b mantel to the right
The Mojo
The little Nose to the left from the sit
The left arete (JPS) of the Matterhorn (and link it with Old Kent Road traverse)
Pammy

Should keep you going for a day! :D

[Tim Heaton]

Great thanks that should indeed keep me busy for more than just 1 day I would have thought. Done Brenva SS and dyno to the right of Chez's but not tried many of the others I don't think. Sounds like a good little circuit if you get them all wired.

[Carnage]

Just thougt of a couple more..

Look Sharp Start (or the whole thing if its dry) Scary and you want a few pads

Shattered (the whole thing- A bit high but the top-outs like 4c)

Brevna (by its right hand side) Quite sketchy.

The little sit start just the other side of the tree near Brevna. A nice warm up

All around the base of the Isolated boulder are masses of eliminates which form a very good circuit as well.  

Have fun.

[unclesomebody]

highly recommend chez's dyno... just so you can see honky fall off it!  tee hee...

[Tim Heaton]

He gave me the impression he cruised it on the phone  :wink: . I am expecting him to lap it for me along with everything else the amount of time he must have spent down there in the past month .

I did try it last time I was there actually. I found I could get as close without the sidepulls/undercuts as with - admittedly not very close either way. I always make an attempt at doing dyno's gracefully get nowhere near then get pissed off and totally brutalize them (obviously that is a fairly relative term as anyone who has met me will know) - quite often seems to make all the difference.

Have a good trip to America, you got a dream tick list in the pipeline yet? You'll have to start a places to visit in America thread.

[unclesomebody]

he he he...  he didn't quite manage it last time we were there, and he still hasn't done it AFAIK.  I'm sure you and your spring legs will be able to do it, it's all timing... once you crack it you can do it every go.  I gaurantee (not money back) you will get it if you try it a few times when you get down there.   You should try the start of chimeara... a boulder problem in it's own right.  I want people to start trying this so it will get clean!  I will be down on aug 19th for 4 days on the sandstone. Hopefully this time round I'll get something done...

my america ticklist is long and full of big numbers, which will result in great shouts of frustration when i can't do them!   we've all got to dream though.

[ian h]

looks like a pretty complete list to me that carnage has put together.

but you could also get on the porgs wall and whiff waff. also vandal is dry at the moment.

tim what day you coming down?

[Tim Heaton]

Not sure precisely, I was going to meet up with Neil (guess you know him?) in London and then maybe make a couple of day trips if I can beg a space on his floor :D.

Hopefully will be sometime next week/weekend if I get my arse in gear at work to justify taking the time off :wink: (I am supposed to be writing up) and the weather is in agreement. Are you often around High Rocks? Will be sure to say hello if I see you, probably end up introducing myself to loads of strangers thinking they might be you  

[a dense loner]

how can you miss a fit looking blond that is constantly stripping?

[ian h]

yeah i am always at high rocks. i should be down tues and thurs evening and possible wed and sun as well.

i got a big blue franklin pad that should narrow down your search a bit

[unclesomebody]

maybe post a photo on the appropriat thread (mingers or hotties, your choice!)...

[neil@canaryclimbs]

Hi guys after 2 fucking months I finally have internet back

Tim get your arse over to mine I been in the sandstone everyday since you were last down

Keith I finally bagged the dyno after 3 days, im so shit.

Been doing a lot of hunting in the last few days, found some good stuff. Had a good day at eridge down the right hand side, did all those problems down there, apart from the project.


I heard about a bit of a project over at toads rock, so went to have a look last week and it was wet, so went today, boy the rock was fucked, someone has hacked it to peices, its the hanging nose right behind the toad itself, I think its beeen done before anyway, but the boys have trashed it cleaned it behond use


Ian if you are still intersted in getting some topos together drop me an email, I have been busy taking pictures, I think its time the sandstone hand a nice little bouldr guide


laters

[unclesomebody]

i'd be a bit careful tim when neil says "get your arse over to mine"... you can't imagine the things he's going to do to it.  

Neil, I hope you have video evidence or reliable witnesses for  your ascent of this dyno!  

[neil@canaryclimbs]

the little man was my witness you can ask him

[ian h]

Been doing a lot of hunting in the last few days, found some good stuff. Had a good day at eridge down the right hand side, did all those problems down there, apart from the project.


I heard about a bit of a project over at toads rock, so went to have a look last week and it was wet, so went today, boy the rock was fucked, someone has hacked it to peices, its the hanging nose right behind the toad itself, I think its beeen done before anyway, but the boys have trashed it cleaned it behond use


Ian if you are still intersted in getting some topos together drop me an email, I have been busy taking pictures, I think its time the sandstone hand a nice little bouldr guide

interested what problems you ticked down at eridge as quite a few were unrepeated (yankee affair, hypersonic, nightfall, tusky, and possible the watchtower)

the rock at denny bottom (toad rock) has been trashed for many years. it is just really soft down there, i think it is allot to do with all kids who scramble around on it. quite allot of tourists go down there to look at the toad, etc.

i am not really up for the guide book thing as i dont think the rock could support the masses bouldering all over it. i like the rock too much to see it get trashed. however i got no problem with showing individuals the problems.

it would also be cool to meet up if you are about. i will be down high rocks tonight and also prob tomorrow thurs and sun. hope to see you about soon.

[Carnage]

i am not really up for the guide book thing as i dont think the rock could support the masses bouldering all over it. i like the rock too much to see it get trashed. however i got no problem with showing individuals the problems.

Word Ian. Guidebook= Bad idea.

Especially considering High Rocks is the best venue but the access situation has the potential to go tits-up (access is up for the yearly review in Sept) and the rock certainly doesn't need anymore pressure than its already getting.

I thought/was hoping that this idea had been shelved......

[ian h]

Word Ian. Guidebook= Bad idea.

Especially considering High Rocks is the best venue but the access situation has the potential to go tits-up (access is up for the yearly review in Sept) and the rock certainly doesn't need anymore pressure than its already getting.

I thought/was hoping that this idea had been shelved......

as far as i know there is gonna be a load more bouldering in the new mike v cc guide.  but it is just gonna be mixed in with the routes. i still not convinced that even this is a good idea. :?  :roll:

[Carnage]

I'm certainly not convinced. However I won't be around when it comes out and will on some new slighter harder Sandstone in Sydney.

I just hate the idea of the good old soft stuff getting trashed or access lost for the sake of a book.  :evil:  :evil:

I mean- Whats the point of a book/guide? To get more people there (apart from making money) which is exactly what it doesn't need. Theres enough regulars around who are quite happy to share the good stuff with the visitor if asked nicely!

[neil@canaryclimbs]

interested what problems you ticked down at eridge as quite a few were unrepeated (yankee affair, hypersonic, nightfall, tusky, and possible the watchtower)


I did  a lot of stuff right down the right hand side, nothing really to hard, on the barrel bit way down right, and some sit start arete down there aswell, and the obvious arete 7a thing which i thought about 6c


On the guide thing, i wasnt really on about writting a guide, more of a little topo for people guiding them into areas rather than trashing the vegetation trying to find all these hidden problems, but I totally respect the idea of a guide is a bad idea.

As for meeting up that would be cool I just got back from high rocks, was down there for 10.30 today, I can only do days, as i look after my son all day and bed time is 8 for him. but if you are around this weekend then i think tim might be coming aswell.

I just had a quick play on the fonz, cool moves didnt do it as its a bit to hot today, also the slab at honeycomb wall, wicked little problem although a little high.

Do you know what grades the 4 problems are in the trees to the right of brenva, i was dabbling today but the tops were a little wet, I only managed the left hand problem

Well cheers for the betta, and i would be keen to know what problems i did at eridge

neil

[Carnage]

When you say to the right of Brevna, I presuming you mean down the little path and its the 'Bowling Green' boulders.

Going left to right from the side facing towards the entrance...

First theres a little dyno thing. Grade? Pretty easy.

Then you've got one one on good holds up to a slap to a weird sloping pinch thing. I'd say a bout Font 6c ish.

The the 3 star arete, on its right side (not named)- good holds to a crumbly undercut for the left and and up to an good hold for the right and a tough move to get a two finger pocket and then go again to a hold well back. About 6c+ /7a

Then theres 2 tough slopey mantels - one is around 7b and I dunno about the other one, but it'll start with a 7.

[neil@canaryclimbs]

Cheers carnage, We had a go at an independant line to the left of the arete rather than the right of the arete, is this on of the tough mantlethings

But cheers for grades, I did the left arete, nice and easy even with the wet top out.  


Sorry for being cheeky but do I know you from mile end or the castle, im trying to put a face to your name, I climb down at mile end alot, and use to set the bouldering  at westway


neil

[ian h]

Cheers carnage, We had a go at an independant line to the left of the arete rather than the right of the arete, is this on of the tough mantlethings

neil

the independent line to the left of arete is also around font 6c-7a, although can feel harder until you know how. it is personally my favorite prob on the boulder.

however all the problems on these boulders can vary in grade loads depending on conditions.

also the undercut should feel a little less cruberly now as i painted it up last week.

the slab right of honeycomb wall? do you mean wall with writing on it "wishful thinking" if so font 6b but will feel harder at the mo as it needs cleaning up properly. i saw some chalk on the crimps tonight.