[BenF]

Hopefully the rain will allow me to make it to Eldorado this year (alas not the hidden city of gold but the runout Swiss granite slabbiness instead).  The various guidebooks and maps that I've got for the area don't give much away in terms of nearby campsites but in my experience there are usually many more campsites than shown on Swiss maps and guides.  So if anyone has been, where did you stay (presuming people have camped)?  The nearest campsite appears to be way down the valley at Innertkirchen but I'm hoping that someone is going to say that there is a spot (with water and showers etc) much nearer to the Grimsel or Furka Passes.

And whilst we're on the subject of Eldorado, any other useful information would be very much appreciated.  What routes do people recommend?  I'm figuring that we should start by doing Motorhead (on a midweek quiet day) if only for it's classic status but what about the harder stuff? 

Thanks in advance.

[SA Chris]

We got there pretty late at night, and just parked along from a hostel type place that looks like a stalag and camped there, then woke up in the morning to torrential rain so, checked forecast (which had changed), and drove back to Chamonix where it was still raining. Don't recall any campsites, but it was about 10 years ago. Still gutted I never got to climb htere, it looks amazing. The Miroir d'Argentine is awesome too (we did manage to climb that!).

[BenF]

How gutting Chris.      I really hope that I have better luck, although last year we got rained off and headed to the limestone near Interlaken.  Suppose we should have persevered last year but somehow we felt that we had to keep moving.  This year I am gonna give it more time though and not have such a rushed month.  Less venues but more time at each I think.

[SA Chris]

Good luck anyhoo. Sorry I can't offer any more info, would have liked to be able to off you reams of beta, but sadly not. We had our eye on Motorhead and Sepultramania (or something).

Are you going to be in Chamonix? We got the Vallee du Arve guide when we were there last month, some great stuff round there.

[BenF]

Are you going to be in Chamonix? We got the Vallee du Arve guide when we were there last month, some great stuff round there.

Doubt it really.  May drop in (mainly for a run in the Aig Rouges because its so good for running up there) on our way home but to be honest I've spent so many summers there, when we spent the final week of our trip there last year I couldn't really be bothered with the whole heaving valley thing.  Obviously the routes up high are amazing and I adore the granite of the Chamonix Aiguilles and the Vallee Blanche, but the valley just pissed me off last year (no doubt my own intolerance really) so I'd like to give it a miss for a bit.  And seeing as Switzerland is littered with quality limestone and granite, I think I can stay out of the valley for a year or two.

I think I've got that Arve guide - is it the sort of sub-alpine rock stuff, with some cross-over into the Piola guides?  A few years back when I was mainly alpine climbing we did have a few quality days out on the stuff just over the col de Montets, before you get to Barberine.  Some interesting multipitch things hidden up the valley opposite Vallorcine.

[Andy B]

We stayed at Innertkirchen, and I don't remember any campsites nearer than that. It's not too far down the valley though, and there's tons of quality, almost roadside crags between there and Eldorado. (which are very useful in uncertain weather).

[dpb]

I have camped at both Meiringen and Innertkirchen.  There are 2 hotels, one at that Grimsel sea and one by Handegg which offer dormatory style accomodation, see http://www.grimselwelt.ch/intro_en though no mention of current prices.  They will definatley be more expensive than camping but very handy and pretty nice. 

We walked in ti climb Motorhead.  We set off early and arrived to find 5 teams already on route.  The rest of the crag was totaly empty and so we decided to climb Metal Hurlant , a 6b a few routes to the right instead.  It was a great days climbing.

The Englehorner is well worth checking out, a hard walk in but great multi pitch limestone.

Have fun!

[dpb]

Sorry, we didn't camp at Meiringen we stayed here http://www.swisstravel.ch/sep/e/bernese_oberland/bern_be/meiringen/gruppenhaus_simons-herberge.html
There is a reasonable wall opposite if the weather properly craps out.

[BenF]

Nice one guys, much appreciated.  I figured that Innertkirchen was going to be nearest and most ideal - maybe use it as a base for the other stuff in the valley and bivi out closer to Eldorado to get a sharp start in the morning each time we head that way.  I've stayed at Gadman previously which is cool for getting to Sustenpass and the Wendenstock (the awesome limestone walls above Gadmen) and a nice campsite with ace views and a pizza restaurant attached.  Plus the bloke that runs it is very knowledgeable and gives good mountain info (probably some kind of old school hero with an awesome backcatalogue of ascents).

We walked in ti climb Motorhead.  We set off early and arrived to find 5 teams already on route.  The rest of the crag was totaly empty and so we decided to climb Metal Hurlant , a 6b a few routes to the right instead.  It was a great days climbing.

The Englehorner is well worth checking out, a hard walk in but great multi pitch limestone.

Thanks for the comments, I think we'll try to get on Motorhead via an alpine start and then maybe try Yeti or another similar route.  Can't think what the Englehorn is but will check it out later.

[dpb]

Englenorner is an area of limestone peaks (gross simelstock, kingspitz etc) on the east side of the grosse scheidegg pass.  From Meiringen head to Rosenlaui.  Its in the Bernese Oberland and schwiez extrem band 1 guides. The Klein Wellhorn (shares the same car park) looks amazing too but I've not climbed on it

[BenF]

Ah, got it.  I know what you mean, I'll check out the guide later and I seem to remember marking the pages ready for use at a later date.  Thanks.

[SA Chris]

Doubt it really.  May drop in (mainly for a run in the Aig Rouges because its so good for running up there) on our way home but to be honest I've spent so many summers there, when we spent the final week of our trip there last year I couldn't really be bothered with the whole heaving valley thing.  Obviously the routes up high are amazing and I adore the granite of the Chamonix Aiguilles and the Vallee Blanche, but the valley just pissed me off last year

I hear you on that. Stopped in for a few days after not going there for about 5 years, and it didn't feel any better. Maybe the hassle has just outweighed the desire. And the Arvre Guide is for the area between Geneva and Servoz, some good stuff.

[BenF]

And the Arvre Guide is for the area between Geneva and Servoz, some good stuff.

Oh right I know it, haven't got it but would like it.  Good shout Chris, I'll seek and destroy.

[SA Chris]

Got it in Decathlon / Quechua in Sallanches