[GraemeA]

Oh that's what he  was doing. I thought he was just crimping on a wall-seam.

Not allowed anyway as it's not a start hold surely?

Check the previous climber and see how much bare ply has appeared when Jeremy stops - we have a nother vid from a better angle that shows it much better

[a dense loner]

Just let me get this right for the sake of my sanity Sam, you're saying half of the slab problems at the works are done by people picking at the laminate so they can pull on the tiny seam they've just made? I haven't seen this once while I've been drinking coffee. I've seen people pulling at the seam at the join of two panels but that's all I can lay claim to. If the probs set like this that's fine but if it's obvious that you're cheating you're doing just that

[psychomansam]

Just let me get this right for the sake of my sanity Sam, you're saying half of the slab problems at the works are done by people picking at the laminate so they can pull on the tiny seam they've just made? I haven't seen this once while I've been drinking coffee. I've seen people pulling at the seam at the join of two panels but that's all I can lay claim to. If the probs set like this that's fine but if it's obvious that you're cheating you're doing just that

Although seams, bolt-holes, knackered panels. Amusingly, they specifically referenced the 'local knowledge' holds which had developed when replacing the main slab at one point. But I was exaggerating preposterously. Engage humour. Sanity restored. You can blame the internet for the confusion.

[Fiend]

Bolt holes are fair game, well on the wall, not in the holds of course.

Is the coffee still good, Dense?

[psychomansam]

Bolt holes are fair game, well on the wall, not in the holds of course.

Is the coffee still good, Dense?

Whatever. They're in on the holds too. If they're not supposed to be used, they can be capped. 

[mr__j5]

Bolt holes are fair game, well on the wall, not in the holds of course.

Is the coffee still good, Dense?

And this is of course the exact opposite of the World Cup rules.

[Stubbs]

Bolt holes are fair game, well on the wall, not in the holds of course.

[a dense loner]

I think mr_j5 was referring to the terrible coffee at the comps, bolt holes are simply holes for bolts

[mr__j5]

No.

I meant that at the World Cups, you can use the bolt holes on the holds, but you can't use the bolt holds on the walls or volumes.

[a dense loner]

I know but I had to get another coffee in somewhere 

[Duma]

Anyone else up tonight for the semis?
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/

Now, 25 entries in the men, 24 in the women...

Hardly worth having qualifying was it?

Surely in future the ifsc should be looking at the location and scheduling of these events with the athletes and audience more in mind? I know there's money in china, and it seems the crowds come out to watch, but given the lack of top level competitors and the travel for most of the athletes surely one event is enough? I'd like to see a round in japan - they've a very strong team atm, and also convenient for other eastern teams. And what was the point of Baku, apart from (I assume) the money?

[Duma]

wtf is going on now?? rain break? seriously, and they flew all the way back to china for this?

[Duma]

? and now IFSC has put on FB that top 8 girls through to finals??

Shauna and Akiyo looked v good, cant see past these two for later. Mens semis too hard, 1 top got you to final. No Dmitrii 

[Duma]

So Shauna needs to make top three and finish ahead of Akiyo in Laval to win the overall I think. Big ask the way akiyo is going atm (the second bit, not the first.)

[Duma]

[psychomansam]

So Shauna needs to make top three and finish ahead of Akiyo in Laval to win the overall I think. Big ask the way akiyo is going atm (the second bit, not the first.)

They're both very consistent. And I do think that when Shauna engages full beast mode she can outshine Akiyo on some of the power problems. But Akiyo is so much better at these than she used to be. It's so close and will just come down to who's on top form that day.

Has to be said though, Shauna started the season better, while Akiyo has been getting stronger throughout....

[Paul B]

The other thing to be said is that this amount of competition makes it far more interesting to follow!

[r-man]

Yeah, that comp could have gone either way. Two more tries on the dyno were all that cost Shauna the gold. Difficult to judge either Akiyo or Shauna better when they both flashed the next problem and couldn't do the last two. Seems like they are so close a little bit of good or bad luck can really make a difference...

[Clart]

Videos of Haiyang boulder and lead comps now up on youtube:

Lead Finals:


Bouldering Finals:


 

[erm, sam]

I had given up hope!

[jwi]

Even though there where few tops it was a great watch. Missed Sharafutinov though.

[Duma]

I had given up hope!

no YouTube in China so they have to wait till they get home to upload

[Duma]

Michaela Tracy through to semis in Laval. (Shauna too obviously)

[Duma]

May have spoken too soon, seems there's still some athletes to finish. Stupid ifsc app.

[Duma]

Sure it used to show the whole entry list, now only seems to add people as they finish?