[Clart]

Woods, Landman, and Kassay fail to qualify for semis in Vail. Girls climbing now.

Shit! Just goes to show the level at which the regular finalists are operating.

[psychomansam]

Shauna 9th in quals.

[Duma]

on now:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/

[Duma]

Shauna just gave up on F2 having got to the penultimate hold and with a minute 40 to go?!

[psychomansam]

Well this is going to be f&*king close!

[psychomansam]

Assuming the scoreboards ARE actually right for once... Angela Payne touched but didn't hold the finish on F4 and Puccio lost her balance ridiculously and fell off F4 ... so it looks like Shauna's through.

No-one has a fucking clue whether Fischuber has qualified! Database doom.

EDIT: He did. Loads of men with 2/2 tops, so it went to bonuses for positions 4,5,6 with three climbers through with 4/5.

[Duma]

Looks like she made it, would have been shit to have missed the final for another silly mistake. Feel bad for Alex though, missing the finals at home, having looked so good on everything but F3.

[r-man]

Shauna just gave up on F2 having got to the penultimate hold and with a minute 40 to go?!

That was weird. Injury niggle maybe?

Made for a tense finish anyway. Shame for Puccio, but perhaps even more for Angela Payne who got so close to doing all four problems only to be thwarted by the final move of the final problem.

Roll on finals...

[jakes]

Coxsey through by the skin of her teeth!!

[psychomansam]

Oh dear, first out, no top, no bonus. Apparently there's an injury rumour. Don't know but so far she doesn't look as intense as normal. Here's hopin'!

[psychomansam]

Oh dear, first out, no top, no bonus. Apparently there's an injury rumour. Don't know but so far she doesn't look as intense as normal. Here's hopin'!

She just hadn't worked out the method on F1. Stohr fell off too, so there's still hope of a medal, though there's some upstarts climbing well. Shauna just flashed F2. Much more like it. Though she gave a grimace while holding the top hold.

[psychomansam]

Oh dear, first out, no top, no bonus. Apparently there's an injury rumour. Don't know but so far she doesn't look as intense as normal. Here's hopin'!

She just hadn't worked out the method on F1. Stohr fell off too, so there's still hope of a medal, though there's some upstarts climbing well. Shauna just flashed F2. Much more like it. Though she gave a grimace while holding the top hold.

After 2nd problem all climbers out she was in third place, with some climbers struggling on F2. However she's just failed on F3. Bonus in 2.

[psychomansam]

Oh dear, first out, no top, no bonus. Apparently there's an injury rumour. Don't know but so far she doesn't look as intense as normal. Here's hopin'!

She just hadn't worked out the method on F1. Stohr fell off too, so there's still hope of a medal, though there's some upstarts climbing well. Shauna just flashed F2. Much more like it. Though she gave a grimace while holding the top hold.

After 2nd problem all climbers out she was in third place, with some climbers struggling on F2. However she's just failed on F3. Bonus in 2.

Akiyo continues to dominate, flashing F3.
Oh dear, not Shauna's day! No medal. Currently in 4th but we'll see. 1 flash. Just wasn't looking her usual self today. Maybe the 3k of elevation was giving her issues? Hopefully she'll be on top form again in a couple of weeks for the next round.

Some good setting in this final I thought.

[psychomansam]

Oh dear, first out, no top, no bonus. Apparently there's an injury rumour. Don't know but so far she doesn't look as intense as normal. Here's hopin'!

She just hadn't worked out the method on F1. Stohr fell off too, so there's still hope of a medal, though there's some upstarts climbing well. Shauna just flashed F2. Much more like it. Though she gave a grimace while holding the top hold.

After 2nd problem all climbers out she was in third place, with some climbers struggling on F2. However she's just failed on F3. Bonus in 2.

Akiyo continues to dominate, flashing F3.
Oh dear, not Shauna's day! No medal. Currently in 4th but we'll see. 1 flash. Just wasn't looking her usual self today. Maybe the 3k of elevation was giving her issues? Hopefully she'll be on top form again in a couple of weeks for the next round.

Some good setting in this final I thought.

5th place. Akiyo was impressive. I believe Shauna's lead in the rankings will be down to 11 points ahead of Akiyo, with Anna about 45 points behind.

Snoozetime.

[r-man]

Always interesting just how much difference the altitude seems to make - everyone puffing and panting and only really two good goes possible in 4min.

Good comp. Shame Shauna didn't figure out F1, she would have had a good chance at silver. Akiyo was amazing.

Lots of talk about the young Americans coming through the ranks, but when will Ashima start doing world cups? She's the one to be really excited about. Or nervous if you are a competitor...

Edit: Just googled, she's still only 13, so 3 years to go.

[davej]

Great viewing Akiyo was super impressive. Altitude makes a big difference  but on a positive note dyno's go further!

[Fiend]

On replay now. Bloody great finals. Good vibes, good co-commentary, and some great problems - I think every problem had one section where competitors managed to come up with two different methods, that was really impressive.

[fried]

Excellent semis, good finals. The camera work was good, even the commentary was good in the finals. Even if Andy Lamb was referred to a few times as Andy Earl .

At this rate ther"ll be nothing to moan about and GraemeA'll have nothing to do.

[Durbs]

Good final! Obviously not the result we were hoping for, but entertaining all the same.
All about Akiyo at the moment.

Shauna didn't seem to be her usual self (based on nothing other than body language) - altitude or tiredness maybe?

[GraemeA]

Check out Jeremy Bonder at 1hr11mins, picking at the laminate to create a hold. Naughty boy got stopped and got a yellow card

[Durbs]

Oh that's what he  was doing. I thought he was just crimping on a wall-seam.

Not allowed anyway as it's not a start hold surely?

[a dense loner]

No, it's not allowed full stop

[psychomansam]

No, it's not allowed full stop

It's the solution to about half the slab/vertical problems at the Works. Hope you're not claiming it's out there too!

[a dense loner]

I was on about picking at the laminate to use as a hold

[psychomansam]

I was on about picking at the laminate to use as a hold

Me too