[ian h]

What's the beta on this?  Was laying off the crack with left hand, right hand in the pocket, left foot pushing in the crack and then kicking my right foot on to a small foothold.  The next move to the grove felt desperate!

thats basically it.

i found the easiest way to do it from being in the position of having left hand in crack and left foot pushing on the side of crack, right hand on sloper at bottom of groove .

was to then bring my right foot under and pull on the opposite side of the crack to what the left foot is pushing

i then found it easy to match my left hand next to my right and then move up

hope that is vaguely understanable :?

[dave]

was to then bring my right foot under and pull on the opposite side of the crack to what the left foot is pushing

yeah that exactly what i did, like elavator-door-ing but with your toes.

[ian h]

yeah is such a smart move.

hi on the slick move factor :

[Johnny Brown]

Wu wote:

Re Sheep problems:

Quote:
is that possible from a sitter, jamming out of the crack? i recon it'd be savage.


Bin done. 7a+/7b I thought, mostly due to the pain of the jam.

The only sitter I did here didn't finish the same way - instead you layback facing right and getting slopers with left hand. Really good, n no jammin. Similar grade - easy 7b.

[a dense loner]

yeah blubbs "sickle crack" is the name

[Jim]

yeah man
(sorry couldn't resist, what with all these yeah's going around))

[Mr.Fontainebleau!]

[
i found the easiest way to do it from being in the position of having left hand in crack and left foot pushing on the side of crack, right hand on sloper at bottom of groove .

was to then bring my right foot under and pull on the opposite side of the crack to what the left foot is pushing

i then found it easy to match my left hand next to my right and then move up

hope that is vaguely understanable :?[/quote]

Thats cool I did it with two fingers in the right pocket, hand in the left crack feet up and then a slap for the hold, don't know if thats harder or easier, probaly easier maybe