[meatball]

Does anybody know if climbing is still banned at Lulworth?

[Bonjoy]

It has been officially banned for as long as I've been going there (more than ten years). I can't imagine the official line will ever change. It's a case of being discrete. Once you are on the front face you can't be seen anyway.

[tubbs]

As Bonjoy says, it's officially banned, including on-site signs saying not to climb

The reality is, however, it's not policed at all. No-one to my (local) knowledge has had any hassle from the wardens for years now, unless they try to climb at Durdle Door or get a drill out.

Mind you - it's minging at the moment.

[meatball]

How ;ong does it take to clean up with a decent weather break?

[tubbs]

Weather's been good for three days now, so it should be fine. Check for a forecast showing a light breeze from anywhere in the south to maximise your chances of it being good.

note: I could be wrong/you could be unlucky

[SamT]

Whats the sketch with Lulworth (Stair Hole) these days.. still just a matter of keeping a low profile.

What are the chances of finding other folk DWSoloing there next week. (on my tod with the family).

Connor Cove is of course the other place on my potential places to go. Again - is it well frequented by DWSists.

[Bonjoy]

Was there two weeks ago, access is the same. Signs have said No Climbing for years but in practise it's not enforced. Enjoy!
Conner is great but is less family friendly and a bit more intimidating without a support team. One of the two main areas has an abseil approach. Brilliant though.
There were other folk at Lulworth both days we were there, but we were the only climbers on the day we went to Conner.

[SamT]

Great - cheers.

Any other DWS - spots round there to consider - I'm confident climbing in the 6s/e4. Willing to give some low 7s a go if they are not too high/dangerous.

[quiffhanger]

Conner Cove & Funky wall are your best bets for sixes. The Conger, Freeborn Man, The Great Shark Hunt, Fathoms, Davey Jones' Lock-off,  And Captain Blood's Cavern would be an awesome day. Funky wall often seeps but is dry at the mo - get on it while you can. As mentioned before not quite so family friendly they all top out above 10m.

Berry Head is great, although bits of it a bird banned till August. Keep an eye on it though - they sometimes lift the ban early. Again no beaches though.

Anstey's beach is great for the kids (ignore the closed signs) and only 100m swim from Long Quarry Point - a few safe 7s there, though check the tide.

Lulworth is probably your best bet though for a beach for the kids but there's not a lot of good 6s especially it the tide isn't up for the Laws traverse). There's a load of good 7s that are very safe though.

Portland has some tidal stuff but not in the same league as the above venues IMO.

You almost def meet other teams at any of those venues if the weather is good. When you going? I'll be at one of the above this weekend and most other weekends until it gets cold

[T_B]

Anstey's beach is great for the kids (ignore the closed signs) and only 100m swim from Long Quarry Point - a few safe 7s there, though check the tide.

Is it easy enough to get down there? Got a 2-year old and a 6-month year old and all the accoutrements. I could go there on 10 August when low tide is supposed to be 13:48 0.9 m and high tide 20.30 4.9m. Any reasonable guess what time Blue Planet would be in? Says it needs a high tide, so I'm guessing after 6pm...

P.S. If anyone's about I'm hoping to go to Lulworth around 11/12/13 August.

[SA Chris]

Lulworth is best bet by miles if you are en famile. They can chill on the beach while you scare yourself silly.

Horny lil devil is very cool, but it might be a good idea to have a spotter for the first move or two, although you aren't likely to fall there, more likely pump out 2/3 if the way. Someone mentioned some bouldering there on here recently too.

[T_B]

Yeah, been to Lulworth a few times so know the lie of the land. Meeting up with another family who are in Exeter, so looking to go somewhere over that way.

[SA Chris]

Sorry was talking to Sam.

(i know you've been to Lulworth - I think you spotted me on start of HLD?)

[quiffhanger]

Anstey's beach is great for the kids (ignore the closed signs) and only 100m swim from Long Quarry Point - a few safe 7s there, though check the tide.

Is it easy enough to get down there? Got a 2-year old and a 6-month year old and all the accoutrements. I could go there on 10 August when low tide is supposed to be 13:48 0.9 m and high tide 20.30 4.9m. Any reasonable guess what time Blue Planet would be in? Says it needs a high tide, so I'm guessing after 6pm...

Not too hard. There are steps all the way, although they are a little decrepit at points. Your guess is as good as mine for Blue Planet. You could go and do Arapiles & Once a dogger at Mid-tide though. You've got a nice scramble (think it's in the deep water guide as VS or something) to get there from Anstey's cove or a Swim, or a long walk up the hill and back down the other side!

[SamT]

Nice one, cheers guys. Top beta.  I'm off on Saturday for a week so not sure when I'll be at any particular place, it'll be dependant on weather and family mood.

[SA Chris]

http://www.dorset-climbing.com/LulworthBouldering.pdf

[tubbs]

Lulworth is no longer banned as it is now covered by the MCA - England Path. I'm aware the the signs are still there, but take no heed (thouigh it's still recommended to avoid Durdle Door in the holiday periods and at weekends)

A Code of Conduct has been developed in conjunction with the BMC and Lulworth Estate. See page 2 of the BMC Access downloads for details - link below. It's common sense and should help maintain the decent relationship that local climbers have built with the Lulworth Rangers and local conservationists.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/downloads/Rock%20Climbing/access_conservation

Steve Taylor - ex BMC Access Rep for Swanage (and Lulworth)

[TobyD]

Anstey's beach is great for the kids (ignore the closed signs) and only 100m swim from Long Quarry Point - a few safe 7s there, though check the tide.

Is it easy enough to get down there? Got a 2-year old and a 6-month year old and all the accoutrements. I could go there on 10 August when low tide is supposed to be 13:48 0.9 m and high tide 20.30 4.9m. Any reasonable guess what time Blue Planet would be in? Says it needs a high tide, so I'm guessing after 6pm...

P.S. If anyone's about I'm hoping to go to Lulworth around 11/12/13 August.

LQP is tricky: steep and muddy path and a couple of exposed points above the slabs that i'd be a bit worried about with a 2 year old. ansteys beach is much easier: a fence to hop over and a path (though the path is a touch overgrown and dilapidated). Yes you'd want a nice high tide for blue planet - really funny fluffable move very near the top. it may be lankable in a more secure way however.