[Sasquatch]

To Fadanoid and Ti_pin_man:  What do you think of the moonboard problems? 

[Ti_pin_man]

I set the holds up and found them tough but I'm a old weak man so I bought some bigger holds to do 4x4 sets and physical problems.  I'll work my fingers on a hangboard and use the moon board to try and become a old, but stronger, man.   

After having the board up a couple of weeks I've used it for three sessions and have slowly 'felt' my way into how to use it, its a learning curve and I'm on the bottom near the steep bit    Any session suggestions for stronger steep stuff welcomed!!   

[webbo]

When I first started using a steep for me board again, I found what worked was to use any feet but specific hand holds. Then move to feet to follow hands plus screw ons and so on.

[Fadanoid]

To Fadanoid and Ti_pin_man:  What do you think of the moonboard problems?

I'll say this to start with. All the problems I have looked at seem very biased towards dynamic right hand lunges with a high rock over. I think its probably my bad choice and on Saturday I intend to sit down and look at all the problems and put up a more varied selection. (School set B - Set up 2)

Originally I was drawn to the idea of the moonboard as it forces you to climb on fingery holds at a step angle. This was always my weakness. So before I accuse the problems of being sandbagged it is only fair that these may just be graded correctly but I will find them hard until I get used to the angle.

[Sasquatch]

To Fadanoid and Ti_pin_man:  What do you think of the moonboard problems?

All the problems I have looked at seem very biased towards dynamic right hand lunges with a high rock over.

This has been my experience.  Both a friend of mine and I built moonboards this past winter and he really struggled for a long time with the movement.  He is mostly a sport climber and tends toward vertical thin climbing.  After several months of climbing on it, he has now done quite a few of the 6a's and a few 6a+'s, but that's it so far.  It's taken him a long time, but he has had to learn an entirely new sytle of movement and climbing.  Almost everything on the moonboard is dynamic - either deadpoint or dyno. 

I set the holds up and found them tough but I'm a old weak man so I bought some bigger holds to do 4x4 sets and physical problems.  I'll work my fingers on a hangboard and use the moon board to try and become a old, but stronger, man.   

After having the board up a couple of weeks I've used it for three sessions and have slowly 'felt' my way into how to use it, its a learning curve and I'm on the bottom near the steep bit    Any session suggestions for stronger steep stuff welcomed!!   

Give yourself time, and plenty of rest both during the session and to recover after.  It's very intense climbing, and easy to overdo it.  I generally try to take two days off after a hard board session. 

[Fadanoid]

That's interesting to know. Some of the problems I put up feel very odd. Like I said in my previous post, Its a style I unknowingly shied away from over the years and I guess I too need to learn this style.

You are 100% correct about the need to rest and take it easy to begin with. I wasn't properly rested last night after Sunday nights session and it was all a bit choppy.
Its hard to resist getting in from work and having a quick go on it!

[Sasquatch]

For reference my friend has consistantly climbed 5.12b/c(that'd be 7b/+ ish right) all over the US.