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Predator @ Malham (Read 2905 times)

shark

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Predator @ Malham
April 06, 2014, 03:34:40 pm
I'm having problems working out a decent way to the move up from the right facing large sidehold at the end of the crux section. 

Paul Reeve's beta was too bunched up for me if I understood it right which is to get a back and foot on a black nobble and then a heel on the sidehold.

The only way I could do it was to get top of the sidehold as crimp with RH. RF on ramp LF bridge across to a right facing flake LH to small painful white sidepull at full stretch and then to just about hanging it whilst make utterly desperate foot moves bumping RF to edge above ramp then next nobbly edge at which point I can move RH to the good sidepull on right of bulge.

There has to be a better way  :please:

Ally Smith

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#1 Re: Predator @ Malham
April 06, 2014, 04:35:59 pm
I too thought the heel beta was too bunched for me and tried various alternatives which all ended up feeling harder, so i stuck with the heelhook method.
Stick with it, i'm sure something will "click" (hopefully not your back!) and it'll feel fine - remember i'm a good few inches taller than you Shark so it shuldn't feel too bunched!

shark

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#2 Re: Predator @ Malham
April 06, 2014, 05:35:46 pm
I too thought the heel beta was too bunched for me and tried various alternatives which all ended up feeling harder, so i stuck with the heelhook method.
Stick with it, i'm sure something will "click" (hopefully not your back!) and it'll feel fine - remember i'm a good few inches taller than you Shark so it shuldn't feel too bunched!

Thanks. I'll persist that way.

So that's: LH on the (chipped?) crimp RH on sidepull. RF on dreadful edge above ramp LF on black nobble. LH to sharp white sidepull Right heel on sidepull stand up and reach good sidepull on right side of small bulge.

Tim Broughtonshaw

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#3 Re: Predator @ Malham
April 06, 2014, 07:19:14 pm
from the slopey right handed jug i remember smearing on a small edge with my right foot. then getting into an awkward dropknee and with left hand crimping that coin like ear then unwind the dropknee putting my right foot toe ontop of the slopey jug as i stood up on the spike that my left foot was dropkneed on. Its an awkward end to the crux but i found for me doing it this way which was hard, gave me an easier next couple of moves as my right foot was stable and i would be taller for the rockup than a heel.

HTH

Tim

TobyD

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#4 Re: Predator @ Malham
April 06, 2014, 11:15:41 pm
I'm having problems working out a decent way to the move up from the right facing large sidehold at the end of the crux section. 

There has to be a better way  :please:

as far as i remember i basically stuck my right heel over the top of my right hand and rocked onto it pretty hard, stabilised a bit with some rubbish wafer thing with left hand and went for something better with right hand....

Do a load of stretching and lay off the deadlifting?  ;)

 

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