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Nijinski @ Auchinstarry (Read 3476 times)

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Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 14, 2013, 01:38:07 pm
Where does this go once stood on the obvious quartz ripple??

Do you layback directly up the left of the arete? Or do you reach around to the holds and slots around the corner (on Bladerunner?), and then au-cheval or layback more on the right side of the arete before finishing direct?

Have been stood on the ripple before backing off and didn't really know which was the right line at the grade.

Ta.

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#1 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 14, 2013, 01:47:17 pm
As far as I'm aware, the true line is left side all the way.
I know some people sneak a bit round the corner to place pro in the slot.

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#2 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 14, 2013, 02:10:36 pm
Keep left. There are a couple if vids floating around online.

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#3 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 14, 2013, 05:19:24 pm
That makes sense, but is the opposite of what a couple of people have told me previously.

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#4 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 14, 2013, 05:52:23 pm
Don't listen to the cheating bastards!

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#5 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 15, 2013, 08:56:47 pm
Got some guy on FB who top-roped it  :sick: and said he stuck to the left. Got another guy who did it 25 years ago and used holds around on the right.

This shunting clip shows the guy using some holds on the right. Just skipped through as I didn't want to see any sequences. Couldn't find anything on vimeo.

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#6 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 15, 2013, 10:17:25 pm
Nick Tarmey had a video of his solo somewhere.  :-\

Maybe just on Living for the Weekend.

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#7 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 17, 2013, 10:27:08 pm
Did this today after a good chat with Alan Cassidy last night who described the line I ended up taking:

From the ripple I pulled on the "resting pocket" round right, did a really cool "poor man's Kaluza Klein manouvre" to swing around onto the right, laybacked a tiny seam on the left and got my foot in the slopey notch on the arete, and good holds from there (couldn't place gear during any of this). Definitely made sense this way. I can see it would be possible to purely layback on the left but that would be quite hard and quite eliminate as the pocket doesn't lead you that way. Happy to take the natural line of least resistance, even if it's easier - felt pretty steady with 6 RPs and Offsets in the crack.

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#8 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 19, 2013, 09:11:08 pm
Good work fella!

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#9 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 19, 2013, 09:16:18 pm
Back around you cop out c**t!!!!!

Nah. Good line, good lead.

Death is the Hunter is worth doing too.

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#10 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 20, 2013, 11:10:34 am
Yeah I'm sure Alan is getting the Tippex out too  :P

DITH is too hard / ground-fally for me....BUT actually, thinking about it, it would a cool ground-up project above pads, quite a rarity in these parts, so that could be fun.

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#11 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 20, 2013, 11:20:42 am
The crux is very much pad height, the top is steady.  I'd recommend a nice link up too:  Start up DITH (gear in crack) then finish up left side of Nijinski.  Really good.

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#12 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 20, 2013, 02:09:29 pm
Yeah I'm sure Alan is getting the Tippex out too  :P

DITH is too hard / ground-fally for me....BUT actually, thinking about it, it would a cool ground-up project above pads, quite a rarity in these parts, so that could be fun.

Have you done Blade Runner direct yet?  That's the only route I have ever succeeded on and then, in hindsight, felt that I shouldn't have started up it! Very memorable though - just need to make sure the starting crack is dry and/or brushed.

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#13 Re: Nijinski @ Auchinstarry
December 20, 2013, 07:55:02 pm
I know, I liked your candidness about the experience. I might well try that instead of BR, if I feel up to it. It's a bit seepy at the mo though.

 

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