[tomtom]

Hello,
A post I sadly have to place here with the demise of yokrshiregrit.com
I know theres a vid of uptown (I think) doing this (as part of the reverse low traverse) on YG.com but no more..

Anyway - its a problem that I've been chipping away at over the last year, and yesterday I (frustratingly) got to holding the large (relatively) sloper 1/2 way up the main face - getting both feet pasted on, but then getting stuck...

Theres a wee ear for the LH to the left of where my RH is, a slopey sidepull around the corner for the LH (neither of which felt right) - and I suspect I just need to do something simple with my feet to get comfy to make the move for the top (or near top where theres a large edge)...

Any ideas?

TT

[GCW]

Around 4:00 in.

[tomtom]

Merci. Perfect. Sidepull it is then

[GCW]

It also helps to be rather talented and to have spent a lot of time at the Cliff 

[moose]

It also helps to be rather talented and to have spent a lot of time at the Cliff 

or, since it's part of my warm-up circuit, just to be keen on esoteric time-wasting!  Anyhows, the key is the vague pinch on the arete.  From holds just below break, LH arete sloper, reach over RH to ear crimp, paste feet, LH vague pinch on arete, pull and get feet on (RF in dish I think), top out using slopers and then jugs.

[tomtom]

It also helps to be rather talented and to have spent a lot of time at the Cliff 

or, since it's part of my warm-up circuit, just to be keen on esoteric time-wasting!  Anyhows, the key is the vague pinch on the arete.  From holds just below break, LH arete sloper, reach over RH to ear crimp, paste feet, LH vague pinch on arete, pull and get feet on (RF in dish I think), top out using slopers and then jugs.

Taa. All wired up to >> I had one attempt getting the vague pinch on the arete and it felt rubbish (having tried the ear etc..) - but I was getting tired by that point. A rewarding and surprisingly balancy problem...

[moose]

I love it - it's my chosen "benchmark" warm-up; if it feels steady and only takes a go or two, I know I'm in fine fettle.  It might be an eliminate, but I prefer the climbing to, say DBS, as a similar graded nearby problem (that the SS-crucifix-sans-break has never sent me to hospital also recommends it! Goddamn that rock below the DBS!)

[tomtom]

Feels hard for 7A+ though... Have heard soft 7B mooted for the sit start (not reverse traverse)...

Lovely moves though - I do a 'Cypher' style kick with my right leg when pulling up for the mid way sloper I find it pushes my body back in to hold the sloper nicely

[moose]

I've only ever sit started it (actually find it easier that way - can get my feet locked in better) and, whilst the old guide grade of V5 seemed harsh, I don't think it's a hard 7a+: possibly even knacky 7a?

The reverse low traverse into it is a toughie though - weird and nasty footwork when using the pocket - very sustained - hard 7a+, possibly even 7b. 

If you want a similar challenge (but harder I'd say) try the South Cave traverse keeping to the low break (i.e. no diversion up the arete to descend the high break).   Finally managed it around Christmas time - crimpy!

[webbo]

This is actually problem 5 v8 6b+ on page 55 of the old Yorkshire rock fax. Except that gets one of the holds under the roof wrong. The slopey pocket you use on the low traverse to reach the 2 finger pocket is out.

[tomtom]

This is actually problem 5 v8 6b+ on page 55 of the old Yorkshire rock fax. Except that gets one of the holds under the roof wrong. The slopey pocket you use on the low traverse to reach the 2 finger pocket is out.

Thats more like it I don't use the slopey pocket - theres a crimpy edge lower and towards the arete...

[webbo]

I know but a lot of folk use it for a foothold and I'm sure you are well aware this is Almscliff after all.