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shades of grey and hook - raven tor (Read 2929 times)

haydn jones

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shades of grey and hook - raven tor
March 31, 2014, 11:28:25 pm
Yet another two problems which aren't attracting much attention, anyone got any beta?

Kingy

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#1 Re: shades of grey and hook - raven tor
March 31, 2014, 11:55:15 pm
According to my spraycard I did the second ascent of Shades of Gray in November 2009 and wrote the following comment:

"follow sit start to Cave Problem to LH on slot then get heel high on Chimes crimp, go for sloper with RH, then go again with RH to jug near Chimes bolt, non-eliminate once you're on the holds."

I hope this helps. There is also Weed Dimension 7b+ which links Weedkiller into the Shades of Gray finish which is worth doing (one of Robin's links). 

I remember trying Hook and it is still on my list but if I recall, I got a horrendous skin split on one of the razor blade crimps and had to sack it off, beware!

r-man

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#2 Re: shades of grey and hook - raven tor
April 01, 2014, 12:33:10 am
Both good problems finishing in the same place. Key beta is the high heel as Ted says (well done for keeping notes!). Shades Of Grey is a bit harder than Cave problem, easy to fluff the top. Wee Dimension I thought was the best of the Weedkiller variations.

Hook is a big move off terrible holds. Don't think there is any special trick. Has this been repeated without the cheating heel?

There are also some harder problems around this roof which I don't think made the guide. If someone has a pic of the cave area I can draw some lines on.

abarro81

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#3 Re: shades of grey and hook - raven tor
April 14, 2014, 01:15:20 pm
Figured this would be as good a place as any to put this:
Anyone know about 'Sympathy in Choice', a Polish Dave 8A here. From PBinfo:  "Sitstart on the left side of the cave, swing along the lip and head for the hidden hold. Beta: Sitstart the pillar on ben's roof swing right onto the lip. Match crimps that you come out to if doing keen roof. Right hand to sidepull on lip. Left heel next to left hand. Left hand high up and right to positive crimp cut loose, go for big jug 30cm up and right of crimp." But that leaves me a bit confused. What's the finishing hold, is it the one that shades of grey finishes on? Or are we further left and this is basically a low left SS to hook?

r-man

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#4 Re: shades of grey and hook - raven tor
April 14, 2014, 01:24:34 pm
It's definitely not a sitter to Hook. I can't remember if this is the Shades of Grey Finish, I'll text Dawid.

If you take a photo I can draw some lines on, and all these problems will make more sense.

abarro81

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#5 Re: shades of grey and hook - raven tor
April 14, 2014, 01:53:47 pm
Cool, I'll try to remember next time I'm there

Tommy

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#6 Re: shades of grey and hook - raven tor
April 14, 2014, 02:36:41 pm
Yeah cool. Me too.

cofe

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#7 Re: shades of grey and hook - raven tor
April 14, 2014, 02:52:53 pm
It's definitely not a sitter to Hook. I can't remember if this is the Shades of Grey Finish, I'll text Dawid.

If you take a photo I can draw some lines on, and all these problems will make more sense.

PM me your email Robin and I'll send you a pic to use if you like.

r-man

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#8 Re: shades of grey and hook - raven tor
April 14, 2014, 03:04:21 pm
Emailed ya.

Just found out Dawid actually has videos of some of these problems, so perhaps this will motivate him to dig them out.

abarro81

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#9 Re: shades of grey and hook - raven tor
April 14, 2014, 03:06:26 pm
Sweet. Videos always good for motivating people to try these new things

 

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