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Peak sport project - 7c ish (Read 7413 times)

James Malloch

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Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 24, 2014, 09:16:05 pm
Looking to try and find a bit of a project in the peak, about 7b+/7c ideally.

Only problem is I can't really undercut with my right hand due to injury, so thought I'd seek the knowledge of UKB to point out some routes.

Been recommended Obscene Toilet (but I think you step up into an undercut?), Ozone Bozo, Stone the Loach (again, RH undercutty/sidepull block thing), and Body Machine, which is wet.

Any ideas? I don't want to get on something only to find I can't pull on some vital holds!

Ta.

mrjonathanr

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#1 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 24, 2014, 09:32:03 pm
Hmm, think Brachiation Dance, Moat People, maybe Let the Tripe Increase (which has undercutting on left hand IIRC, someone else may confirm)

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#2 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 24, 2014, 10:13:43 pm
Plumbing the depths of my memory, would Orange Sunshine not fit the bill? Only one hard move off a left hand undercut. The rest steady, and it's really good.

Actually ten holds have probably fallen off it since I did it and it'll be a completely different route. Apologies if so.

TobyD

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#3 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 24, 2014, 10:15:57 pm
I cannot remember there being much undercutting on the boltest, and it's brilliant. Obscene toilet and gesture both involve RH undercuts fairly prominently.
What about lovers leap at stoney? Not done it but it looks decent.
Possibly not too long before body machine dries, if it stays sort of spring like in the next week or so....

205Chris

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#4 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 24, 2014, 10:18:35 pm
Plumbing the depths of my memory, would Orange Sunshine not fit the bill? Only one hard move off a left hand undercut. The rest steady, and it's really good.

Actually ten holds have probably fallen off it since I did it and it'll be a completely different route. Apologies if so.

Probably, although it gets 7c+ now. Very good, but very bouldery.

Brachiation Dance is a good suggestion but it'll be wet at the moment.

If you like crimping then The Boltest at Long Tor is probably one of the best 7cs in the peak.

mark20

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#5 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 24, 2014, 10:35:26 pm
Sturgeon at the Embankment.
The 7b+/c stuff at Garage Buttress would fit the bill, and are handy for an evening session.

fatdoc

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#6 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 24, 2014, 11:02:25 pm
Plus one for sturgeon... It's also a great route... As is why me... No under cuts on tribe either.. But iirc now harder since holds demise.

kc

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#7 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 12:40:03 am
There are no moves on Ozone Bozo that require RH undercutting, Just Very sholdery RH layerways.
King of Ming makes a long but mild RH undercut pocket move onto a set of crimps.
It is an ordeal getting to the start of Lovers Leap and you will also find RH undercuts up there too. Horrible crozzly ones at that.
Let the Tripe Increase and the quality No Mud No Thud have very hard LH undercut moves so they should be ok.

dave

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#8 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 07:16:47 am
Sturgeon has got an undercutting sequence on though hasn't it?

No undercutting on EatTheRich, Wild In Me or Fossil Wall as far as I remember.

a dense loner

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#9 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 07:22:21 am
Is wild in me at the right side of the tor? If its what i'm thinking it's a big stretch off a rh undercut side pull?

kc

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#10 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 08:23:36 am
......or a span of a crappy edge for dwarfs.

dave

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#11 Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 08:55:42 am
Is wild in me at the right side of the tor? If its what i'm thinking it's a big stretch off a rh undercut side pull?

It's more of a juggy sidepull than a proper undercut.
« Last Edit: March 25, 2014, 12:28:42 pm by dave »

Bonjoy

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#12 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 11:28:08 am
Toys for the Boys, excellent and not undercutty (I think). +1 for The Boltest

James Malloch

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#13 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 11:33:51 am
Thanks for the recommendations, plenty of food for thought!

Sidepull holds should be okay, been on quite a few lately. Normally at the tor a reasonable amount so will check Wild in Me out this weekend.

Few things I want to try at embankment too so I'll try putting a rope on sturgeon as well. Keen for stoney as well mark, let me know what you're up to once the clocks go forward!

Too old to be bold is another I've looked at. Undercuts all seem to be on the left hand if I'm guessing the sequence correctly?

mark20

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#14 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 11:46:57 am
You need a couple of RH undercuts on Too Old to be Bold

205Chris

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#15 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 12:01:19 pm
Toys for the Boys, excellent and not undercutty (I think).

Awesome route. Although it does involve a RH finger / finger stack (depending on how fat your fingers are) in an upside down pocket.

It's also very definitely 7c+.

Over on the same buttress Stung / Esmerunga would probably be worth a look.

Nettle Buttress is very underrated in my opinion.

dave

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#16 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 12:29:45 pm

You need a couple of RH undercuts on Too Old to be Bold

Yep there's one main rh undercut move on TOTBB.

nai

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#17 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 02:18:04 pm
what about Cry of Despair?  Apart from the massive one that fits a head or kneebar the only undercut I recall is the lemon hold for LH that some folk use. Quality route if a little fickle with nick.

Wood FT

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#18 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 02:22:38 pm
it'll be a vintage cornice year this year, I'm almost certain

Bonjoy

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#19 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
March 25, 2014, 03:45:31 pm
Toys for the Boys, excellent and not undercutty (I think).

Awesome route. Although it does involve a RH finger / finger stack (depending on how fat your fingers are) in an upside down pocket.


Pretty sure I took this hold as a pinch with my thumb in the pocket

James Malloch

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#20 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
April 04, 2014, 06:40:25 pm
Cheers for the beta everyone. Had a play on Wild in me today above pads and going to take a rope on it tomorrow.

Also had a go on Celebration at Two Tier last weekend which could be something to go back to once I'm a little stronger for a crimp I was struggling on. Some good projects to go at!

Paul B

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#21 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
August 01, 2014, 03:18:43 pm
Seems like a bad choice to me. The Tor is a lot drier than other venues and a lot less pleasant to climb at during the hotter months.

shark

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#22 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
August 01, 2014, 04:00:15 pm
Seems like a bad choice to me. The Tor is a lot drier than other venues and a lot less pleasant to climb at during the hotter months.

Fine if you start early

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#23 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
August 01, 2014, 04:25:54 pm
Another Choadside Attraction, must be piss as I did it, was quite fun, more committing than actually hard. There's a thumbslot rest after the crux but no underclinging I can recall. It's at the Tor but I did it at exactly this time of year.

Paul B

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#24 Re: Peak sport project - 7c ish
August 01, 2014, 04:35:50 pm
Fine if you start early

Trust you to apply that kind of logic. Of course it is, but why not sample the places that are actually 'in' condition rather than persevering with places that aren't?

Sorry, for a minute I forgot who I was speaking to... :whistle:

 

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