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Boulder problems re-cleaned (Read 94172 times)

Stu Littlefair

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#50 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 06, 2015, 12:17:53 pm
I have some very poor shots which don't add much, and it was 11 years ago but it looks like I've got a RH finger lock in the crack, my RF out right, LF flagging and my LH on some crimp or something to the left of the crack.

From the direction my beady eyes are looking, I suspect I'm about to put my LF up in the roof and come over to layback the crack with LH.

Also, in the photos I look quite fat, so it can't be that hard.

Ru

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#51 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 06, 2015, 12:26:20 pm
Useful! Although beta wasn't the issue on egg arête either, was it?

Sorry, wasn't trying to be awkward, was just trying not to dissuade you from going to try it without beta.

I can't add anything to what Stu said. We did it at the same time so I probably used the same sequence. I only remember laybacking the crack with my left to go to the top, Eclipse style.

Johnny Brown

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#52 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 06, 2015, 12:53:29 pm
Cheers, I did it 11 years ago too, only when I got there realised I couldn't remember a thing.

Bonjoy

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#53 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 06, 2015, 01:17:33 pm
I have some very poor shots which don't add much, and it was 11 years ago but it looks like I've got a RH finger lock in the crack, my RF out right, LF flagging and my LH on some crimp or something to the left of the crack.

From the direction my beady eyes are looking, I suspect I'm about to put my LF up in the roof and come over to layback the crack with LH.

Also, in the photos I look quite fat, so it can't be that hard.
Are you in full Mexican or just a poncho?

205Chris

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#54 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 25, 2015, 07:00:20 pm
I can't really take any of the credit (thank Mark20) but Gathering Storm and Green Chapel were dry and climbable today.

Most of the Stanton in the Woods circuit was looking clean and chalked too.

bolehillbilly

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#55 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 25, 2015, 09:04:53 pm
That's good news. I was planning a vist and a reclean of a few bits at stanton woods in the next few weeks. I'm guessing the big slab below Eyes is still a bit green?

205Chris

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#56 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 28, 2015, 09:11:04 pm
That's good news. I was planning a vist and a reclean of a few bits at stanton woods in the next few weeks. I'm guessing the big slab below Eyes is still a bit green?

Sorry - must have missed this the other day. Didn't look closely I'm afraid but I don't think the slab was clean.

highrepute

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#57 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 28, 2015, 09:59:17 pm
That's good news. I was planning a vist and a reclean of a few bits at stanton woods in the next few weeks. I'm guessing the big slab below Eyes is still a bit green?

Sorry - must have missed this the other day. Didn't look closely I'm afraid but I don't think the slab was clean.
Yes, very mossed over.

cha1n

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#58 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 28, 2015, 11:25:15 pm
I can't really take any of the credit (thank Mark20 and Highrepute)

Thanks for the cleaning chaps.

BAndy

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#59 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
February 20, 2016, 12:49:40 pm
I cleaned and climbed Wangatan near Secret Garden yesterday. Obviously it'll get pretty damp over the weekend but it's almost scrittle-free at the moment and the top-out is clear of moss. It looked to have been cleaned sometime in the recent past too (possibly Monkey Boy of this parish judging by the video on peakbouldering) so I can't take all the credit.

It's a great problem and deserves at least a non-bold star. I could have done with a spotter and more than two pads though as the landing isn't perfect. I cleaned some moss and lichen off the top of the 7A to the left but it needs more work.

The 7A on the Bigmouth boulder is also in good clean nick at the moment and worth doing on the way to Wangatan. I didn't think it was a gift at the grade!

a dense loner

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#60 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
February 20, 2016, 04:21:12 pm
Yep monkey boy cleaned it a while ago

bigironhorse

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#61 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 24, 2016, 06:09:32 pm
Cleaned, removed turf and climbed the highball blunt arete right of gingerbread slab at lawrencefield today. Felt about 6A, really great climbing with a big slap to the top. Anyone know if this has been done before?

monkey boy

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#62 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 24, 2016, 07:02:11 pm
I cleaned and climbed Wangatan near Secret Garden yesterday. Obviously it'll get pretty damp over the weekend but it's almost scrittle-free at the moment and the top-out is clear of moss. It looked to have been cleaned sometime in the recent past too (possibly Monkey Boy of this parish judging by the video on peakbouldering) so I can't take all the credit.

It's a great problem and deserves at least a non-bold star. I could have done with a spotter and more than two pads though as the landing isn't perfect. I cleaned some moss and lichen off the top of the 7A to the left but it needs more work.

The 7A on the Bigmouth boulder is also in good clean nick at the moment and worth doing on the way to Wangatan. I didn't think it was a gift at the grade!

Glad it's getting some attention. Great problem I thought

mark20

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#63 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 25, 2016, 10:05:48 am
Cleaned, removed turf and climbed the highball blunt arete right of gingerbread slab at lawrencefield today. Felt about 6A, really great climbing with a big slap to the top. Anyone know if this has been done before?
Sounds good, got any pics? I can't picture it.
A bit further along, I gave Boonapi a good clean a few months ago, looks like its been getting a few ascents since, so hopefully will stay clean for a bit now. Great, thin, crimpy slab.

Whilst I'm here
I cleaned Computer Says No at Froggatt (below the road nr the hairpin), a highball techy wall on seams. It will still be worth taking a short rope to clean, and waiting a couple dry days before trying it though as the cracks can stay a bit damp after rain.

Toby and highrepute have cleaned Dreamboat and The Captain recently, and removed some trees that had fallen onto the latter  :2thumbsup:

And I have glued the flexing flake on Dogs Die in Hot Cars and a good effort from Neil and Matt who filled the hole in landing with birch logs, this now makes a spooky highball, hard 7B

andy_e

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#64 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
August 13, 2016, 04:46:53 pm
Geometer at Guisecliff has fallen fowl of the creeping green. I attempted a clean but didn't have my gardening equipment to hand so I couldn't give it a proper clean. A shame, as it's an ace climb.

Mr_Cus

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#65 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
August 25, 2016, 11:23:43 am
I walked through padley gorge with the dog the other day and someone has built a fairly substantial den around mossatrocity.  Didn't have time to clear it unfortunately but if you are heading there it'd be worth pulling it all apart before it gets too wet and green.  I then went on to crash and write off my beloved van on the way home. Shit day. NNFN!

Gritter

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#66 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
September 24, 2016, 05:41:42 pm
Green chapel and eyes to the skies got a spruce today.
Does anyone else think green chapel is stiff at 7a?
The two problems seemed miles apart to me, could of been temps I suppose.

kelvin

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#67 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
September 25, 2016, 07:52:17 am
  I then went on to crash and write off my beloved van on the way home. Shit day. NNFN!

Sorry to hear that  :(

bolehillbilly

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#68 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 30, 2016, 09:35:16 pm
Salad Fingers Block at Cocking Tor got a good clean up a treatment a couple of weeks back.  It usually suffers a bit from a drainage line down the middle but hopefully this will be less of an issue for a while now.  There's also a good new problem to the left of Salad Fingers at 7a/7a+ Rusty Spoons.  The problems on the right arête both felt tough for the grade though some cooler conditions might help!
« Last Edit: October 31, 2016, 10:33:18 am by Bonjoy, Reason: Prob name correction »

Bonjoy

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#69 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
November 03, 2016, 06:59:45 pm
Did Rusty Spoons today. Good addition. I assume it goes up left of the tree at the top. Re climbed both sides of the right arete too. Agree the RHS is a bit undergraded - seemed like 6c from stand and 7a from sitting ( harder than Rusty Spoons)

bolehillbilly

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#70 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
November 03, 2016, 10:01:43 pm
Hmmm a bit vague and I even got the new name wrong -thanks for the edit/correction.    It was still a bit damp on the finish the day it was cleaned.  I did the left arête RHS problem (very good too) and finished using a grizzly hand jam under the tree for a bit of security and topped out left of it but then couldn't do the new line.  From memory my more capable accomplice  did finish straight up and left of the tree using the sloping edge/s.
I did wonder whether there was a possible RH version making more use of the seam feature between this and SF?
Great lump of grit and the closest to the road too so might see a bit more attention with 3 decent 7s on it now.


Bonjoy

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#71 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
November 04, 2016, 08:29:07 am
I finished between arete and tree. You do have to grab some veg though once the rock runs out. On reflextion it felt no harder than 6C, doubtless due to much better connies than date of FA, it is friction dependant.
I gave the top of Jeremy Fisher a proper clean, including trundling the scary block wedged in top break (came out very easily by hand!).
Had a look at Cherubs Bit etc at Turning Stone. Deffo needs a re-garden. Bushes needed cutting back and rock starting to get mossy again.

mark20

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#72 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
November 05, 2016, 05:47:13 pm
Did Rusty Spoons today, good addition. Also thought it was easier than Jeremy Fisher which was also very good (by that I mean the arete on it's right - I think you've got the name the wrong way round on your topo Bolehillbilly?)
Good work on the cleaning, it's worth folk getting there before they get vegetated again, and whilst Rusty Spoons is still a soft 7 tick ;)

bolehillbilly

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#73 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
November 06, 2016, 02:04:11 pm
Good stuff and feedback, nice to see it get some attention. Yeah it was 25C and humid  back in the September heat wave so grades were a bit of a guess.

mark20

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#74 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
November 24, 2016, 04:10:02 pm
De-mossed The Mantelist at Rowtor at the weekend

 

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