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Boulder problems re-cleaned (Read 94171 times)

a dense loner

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#25 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 27, 2014, 11:57:23 am
Good work JR, make sure they take them 2 boulders as well before I have to watch vids of r-man climbing on them next wk

JR

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#26 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 27, 2014, 12:14:46 pm
Cheers Dense.

Actually re-looking at the guide the 'Crack Pot' problem is still ok - it's 'Crap Pot' that's had the fire damage and has the fragile hold...  I'm sure you'll all be rushing there ;)

r-man

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#27 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 27, 2014, 02:48:04 pm
Great work JR! The stabilisation work has needed doing for a while, Really good that you got Safestyle to agree to tidy up.

I'm amazed that so many people seem to be heading straight to the quarries rather than the natural grit, but it's great to know other people like these places too.

I've added the reclimbed Denham Traverse + video to the new problems page, the idea being that people can skim read this before they visit a venue. http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/projects/

JR

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#28 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 28, 2014, 09:44:32 am
Safestyle sent me a message to say they've been and cleared the fly-tipping up at Denham - which is a good result and credit to them.  Is anyone local able to check and send me a pic so I can get back to them if there's still any issues?

Gritlad

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#29 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
December 03, 2014, 07:06:18 pm
Myself and Mark20 cleaned and climbed Jonboys Cider Women Direct and also Grimoire today at Cratcliffe and thought they were both well good.
Really good additions to the circuit around there, both around 7A too.
Cider Women is fine with only about 3 pads too.

Johnny Brown

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#30 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
December 03, 2014, 07:58:58 pm
Brilliant, yonks since I did that. In fact it was so dirty last time I forgot where you went.

Wood FT

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#31 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
December 03, 2014, 09:39:18 pm
Mid week bastards

Bonjoy

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#32 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
December 03, 2014, 10:22:17 pm
Good work, quality highballs. Someone needs to highball Quercus. I did it with runners at E4 6b but it would be much better as a high 7a.

cheque

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#33 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
December 07, 2014, 02:20:07 pm
All the highballs on the block at Black Rocks (Velvet Silence etc.) are clean now.

Gritlad

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#34 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
February 13, 2015, 12:31:56 am


Here we go. Great bunch of cleaned up stuff.
Cheers to Bolehill Billy for giving it a scrub back in summer, made cleaning today pretty easy.

mark20

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#35 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
March 21, 2015, 05:01:35 pm
Loads of clean highballs at Wyming Brook at the moment. In addition to Esoteric Slab which 205chris gave a good clean last year, we have
Superbrook 7B, neo classic
Silent Witness 6C (E6 6b), high but flat landing, good moves and rock.
Half Man Half Cake 6B (E4 6b), big lock for the pocket. might be useful to take a rope for the easy finish?
'ere Com Fudgie 6B (E4 6b), thanks to Bonjoy for cleaning this last year. Steep and fun, 'sport climbing'
my platform under A Man In The Woods 6B? (E4 6a) still looks good but you might want a runner for the top.

It's probably still worth taking a rope and harness to give them a quick clean first. Good tree belays. Graeme Hammond is in the process of cleaning some of the easier trad routes too

mark20

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#36 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 16, 2015, 10:20:30 am
Cleaned Bath House Pink at Burbage South just before Easter. Great little highball, down as 7B/+ on UKC but felt more like font 7A+ ? Eases with height and felt ok without a spotter. Mad Llechtim nearby is similar and also very good, font 6C

Johnny Brown

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#37 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 16, 2015, 11:01:14 am
Yeah, 7A+ tops. Good one. It's always been a tad dirty. I took Honnold on a soloing circuit here once and thought this might slow him down, given that he had brand new sportivas on. It didn't.

Bonjoy

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#38 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 17, 2015, 01:09:49 pm


The right choice of music Mark  ;D

bolehillbilly

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#39 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
June 05, 2015, 09:34:35 pm
Most stuff in the Churnet that I've been to recently is in really good nick.
Re- cleaned the Aniseed Slab lines last night whilst adding a couple of new problems to it's right hand side.
Highball Churnet slabs?  :-\
Decent climbing on this block (not the pebble roulette you might anticipate).


rainbow

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#40 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
June 06, 2015, 12:57:17 am
Brilliant, was on my list to give them their annual clean next week, now I don't have to  :thumbsup:

haydn jones

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#41 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
June 26, 2015, 02:50:48 pm
Cleaned the first half of the traverse at dog's dinner
and brock the start is now all clean

Gritter

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#42 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 03, 2015, 07:38:34 pm
P crack, 72 and 72 direct all clean and sorted the landing out on p crack. Minimal pruning to the tree behind as well. Brilliant problems.

cofe

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#43 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 03, 2015, 09:41:24 pm

P crack, 72 and 72 direct all clean and sorted the landing out on p crack. Minimal pruning to the tree behind as well. Brilliant problems.

Good man, might head down tomorrow.

Johnny Brown

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#44 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 05, 2015, 09:26:29 am
Good effort cleaning the P-crack block gritters. Anyone got a sequence on P-crack?

Ru

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#45 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 05, 2015, 05:17:05 pm
Good effort cleaning the P-crack block gritters. Anyone got a sequence on P-crack?

I don't remember beta being much of an issue. Good problem.

monkey boy

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#46 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 05, 2015, 05:40:03 pm
Any photos of P-crack kicking around?

Johnny Brown

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#47 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 05, 2015, 06:13:09 pm
Good effort cleaning the P-crack block gritters. Anyone got a sequence on P-crack?

I don't remember beta being much of an issue. Good problem.

Useful! Although beta wasn't the issue on egg arête either, was it?

Doubt there are many pics about Dave, it's a very gloomy spot.

Gritter

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#48 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 05, 2015, 07:50:44 pm
Start matched in the pocket, rh to roof pocket then Lf on back wall on some shelfy thing near hueco, RF toe hook in hueco, deep left drop knee and slap rh to lip and Lh to roof pocket, wildly stab into a rh Gaston jam in base of crack, flag out right and come into layback with the Lh, LF to smallish edge near the lip hold, rh out to a sharp hold out right and then lay one on for glory. (Tried laybacking the crack to the top but this felt desperate) it all felt hard for 7b to be honest.

Johnny Brown

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#49 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 06, 2015, 08:22:10 am
Thanks! I think Percy gave it V8+ originally. Managed a similar move out but couldn't match or get to the crack, then whatever I did with the crack I ended up sat on the block.

 

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