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Boulder problems re-cleaned (Read 94186 times)

Bonjoy

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Boulder problems re-cleaned
March 20, 2014, 01:05:13 pm
As per Kristain's sensible suggestion, here's a sticky thread specifically for reporting problems that have been cleaned up.

I'll kick off with Face Arete in the Cratcliffe area  :-\. Cleaned yesterday. I also sealed the low foothold on the arete which was eroding badly.
« Last Edit: March 20, 2014, 02:40:41 pm by Bonjoy »

slackline

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#1 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
March 20, 2014, 02:27:17 pm
I'll kick off with Face Arete in the Cratcliffe area. Cleaned yesterday. I also sealed the low foothold on the arete which was eroding badly.

Good work on the maintenance, but aren't there access issues in that area?

Wouldn't want the landowners getting wind of discrete activity that has gone unnoticed and then kicking up a fuss to the BMC.

Dave & Scouse D showing that Isla Grace is pretty clean at the moment (was in someones video they posted the other day too)...

Quote
Decent roadside highball 6c/old E6 Isla Grace at Froggatt tonight. Thanks to the lads that cleaned this up, get it while its hot

« Last Edit: March 20, 2014, 02:39:59 pm by Bonjoy, Reason: Redacted »

Stubbs

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#2 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
March 20, 2014, 02:28:50 pm
Me, Flax and some keen yoofs cleaned off the Percy's Roof block at Cratcliffe last sunday so hopefully that should stay in nick for a while. 72 is a nice steep 7A on good holds, P Crack looks horrendous!

Bonjoy

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#3 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
March 20, 2014, 02:38:10 pm
Did P Crack again about a year ago. It's tricky but seemed right at 7b. It does get filthy again very quick!
Slackline- i'll edit relevant posts to avoid venue naming. Sadly the place is getting very overgrown. IMO it needs a certain level of covert traffic.

Stubbs

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#4 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
March 20, 2014, 02:42:34 pm
Did P Crack again about a year ago. It's tricky but seemed right at 7b.

Yeah I was pretty knackered by then and not up for stabbing into fingerlocks! Will get back at some point.

slackline

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#5 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
March 20, 2014, 02:55:56 pm
Slackline- i'll edit relevant posts to avoid venue naming. Sadly the place is getting very overgrown. IMO it needs a certain level of covert traffic.

That would be a real shame if its lost to nature. I only managed to visit once before the current ban but thought it was a lovely spot with some great problems.  I've no objection to people doing their own thing though as long as its considerate to the sensitive nature of access (and I'm not insinuating you would do otherwise).

mark20

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#6 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 09, 2014, 08:45:57 pm
I've cleaned Shy Boy at Chatsworth. Well worth doing, quite technical, font 7a ish

205Chris

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#7 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 09, 2014, 09:37:04 pm
I've cleaned Shy Boy at Chatsworth. Well worth doing, quite technical, font 7a ish

I thought it was totally brilliant. A little bit scrittly through lack of traffic but the sequence of climbing is amazing. It's also easy to traverse off at the break if you don't fancy the prospect of a green VS arete to get to the top.

It's not actually that high, just the landing is a bit slopey. Nice to have a spotter.

Bonjoy

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#8 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 11, 2014, 09:52:48 am
Good work. Did this years ago and thought it was great.

bolehillbilly

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#9 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
June 20, 2014, 11:38:48 am
Angel Falls at Seagull Tor was clean a few weeks ago.

I've recently cleaned T Bone Wilson, Chinese Cadbury Wolf and Tasty Yellow Beef at Black Garden.   Forest Casual should clean up quickly, not tried this one but the arête is clean both sides
Conditions have been okay in the shade on my 2 visits recently and the top sloper on T Bone has been well cleaned. 
I found it best to drop straight down the slope and then it's a flat 30m to the block.  I've pad rolled a path down through the undergrowth to lead the way.



Bonjoy

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#10 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
June 20, 2014, 12:39:14 pm
Good work! You climbed many of them?

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#11 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
July 10, 2014, 10:25:39 pm
Yes but couldn't do the sit start to T Bone.  Sussed the method now but it's pretty aggressive on the right groin and aggravates an already aggravated old injury (sorry excuse) - will have another visit in the Autumn - it should stay clean for a while now.  It still makes a really good 6c as a stand start.  CC Wolf was okay but I uncovered a side pull just under the moss line that you can see on BMC Guide photo which makes it a bit easier if used.  The description's brief - do you remember finishing with RH in the pocket or crossing and finishing as T Bone?
Great boulder.
Angel Falls is quality too. 

Bonjoy

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#12 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
July 10, 2014, 11:07:29 pm
Think I finished further left than T bone, but it was a long time ago...

Tommy

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#13 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
July 10, 2014, 11:33:01 pm

Yeah I was pretty knackered by then and not up for stabbing into fingerlocks! Will get back at some point.

I did that problem and I ended up with an infected finger and had to go to the doctor! Good skin cruncher. Like a finger crack version of Savage me Softly at back of Stanage.

Bonjoy

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#14 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
July 11, 2014, 01:15:56 pm
Everything except the  6b to the hole is cleaned on Black and Deckout butress (Blackwell Dale). The stuff on the right is much better than it looks. Haven't done B&D yet but that looks excellent. Emlyn added a great 7a highball to the left of this. Will put details and photo on new probs thread when he thinks of a name  :jab: (he didn't rate my suggestion of Young, Gifted and Black).

Wood FT

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#15 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
July 11, 2014, 01:36:23 pm
good name!

He could call it Berlin Tears after the time he got rejected from The Watergate. . .


Bonjoy

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#16 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
September 22, 2014, 12:41:55 pm


Whilst on the Doug-less boulder (Roaches Lower Tier) yesterday we re-cleaned Rumour and Scratchy Scoop. The latter is a brilliant palming scoop entry problem just right of the carved steps, it’s a harsh sand bag at the book grades of V3 and 6A, 6C seemed more like it. Definitely worth a detour.

Gritlad

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#17 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
September 22, 2014, 08:20:01 pm
Gave Pigs Make Nests at B South a ab and a good de-scrittle today, couldn't suss it out though, thought I was on the money slapping lh to obvious crimp/sloper but seems to lead no where.... Anyway, good problem and now not scrittly.
Going to clean Barrel Organist and Glorious Gritstone Mantelshelf tomorrow aswell, looked good problems and fine with one pad.

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#18 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
September 22, 2014, 08:35:19 pm


Whilst on the Doug-less boulder (Roaches Lower Tier) yesterday we re-cleaned Rumour and Scratchy Scoop. The latter is a brilliant palming scoop entry problem just right of the carved steps, it’s a harsh sand bag at the book grades of V3 and 6A, 6C seemed more like it. Definitely worth a detour.

I agree about Scratchy Scoop being good and good value but 6c seems a bit steep (provided its clean), has anyone had a go at the project hanging nose to the right? It looks absolutely impossible!

Bonjoy

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#19 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
September 23, 2014, 08:34:55 am


Whilst on the Doug-less boulder (Roaches Lower Tier) yesterday we re-cleaned Rumour and Scratchy Scoop. The latter is a brilliant palming scoop entry problem just right of the carved steps, it’s a harsh sand bag at the book grades of V3 and 6A, 6C seemed more like it. Definitely worth a detour.

I agree about Scratchy Scoop being good and good value but 6c seems a bit steep (provided its clean), has anyone had a go at the project hanging nose to the right? It looks absolutely impossible!

TBH I suspect what we climbed might be a direct version of the line rather than a line of least resistance, which would be to start slightly left of the scoop, turn the lip then pad across the scoop. As the guides are vague and no holds where clean it wasn't possible for us to tell. If anything 6C is a bit harsh for the problem we did. There is a logged ascent on UKC in March this year, which can't have been via the direct way as the holds where mega scrittley and could not have been used that recently.

Regards your question: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24784.0/topicseen.html



You can see the cleaned holds on the scoop.

Sloper

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#20 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
September 23, 2014, 10:20:59 am
Great photo, what about calling it 'West Lothian'?

As to the scoop, yes we did it entering from the left, from memory I'd suggest 6c via your method might be a bit of a sandbag.

Bonjoy

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#21 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 01, 2014, 03:56:40 pm
Between me and Gritlad the Barrel Organist block at Froggatt is now clean. This is a good wall but rarely dry and even less often clean and dry, so if you aspire to doing all the best 7as in the area it’s worth getting in there now. BO is the best thing, I didn’t fancy the jump start so did it with a static pull on from some little slopers, a bit harder I guess but still 7a overall. Glorious Gritstone mantel is a bit of a vague 7a+ line just right, again with a jump start, I didn’t do it, it seemed quite tough. I dare say Iain may have already done the obvious line of flakes just right but it’s not in the guides, will stick it on pb.info as Scraping the Barrel 6A.

JR

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#22 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 27, 2014, 10:36:15 am
Checked out Denham quarry on Saturday after Robin's guide motivated me to go back to my childhood crag.

Spent the afternoon cleaning the loose flakes off and stabilising the damaged rock after the fire a couple of years ago which trashed the crux section of the "Denham Traverse" and the direct "Crack Pot". 

I re-climbed the traverse - we've lost a fair few of the small holds from the original and the new line goes slightly higher than the old one - IIRC actually only using one "new" hand hold (and a few new foot nubbins) so it's changed the crux of the problem quite significantly, though not the grade.



The direct through the fire damage "Crack Pot" is probably climbable, but the first hand hold is still crumbly so take care (the hold near my waist at about 1:30).  I didn't do it - so your call.

I also abbed and cleaned the un-repeated Snatch 8A - supposedly has a broken hold (what I think will be the last hold before the jug for me) but should still be possible, and Nik tells me he didn't use this on his FA.  Had a few goes before my skin gave up but certainly doable as it is now with some big pads and strong fingers.

Jordan also flashed the 7C+ in baby Denham, No Tome for Losers.
« Last Edit: October 27, 2014, 11:06:38 am by JR »

JR

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#23 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 27, 2014, 11:36:28 am
I've also been in touch with safestyle UK about clearing up their marketing and customer data which has been fly-tipped and half burned in the quarry.



They've got back to me and are off to clear it up, and will let me know when they have!

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#24 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
October 27, 2014, 11:53:44 am
I've also been in touch with safestyle UK about clearing up their marketing and customer data which has been fly-tipped and half burned in the quarry

http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26073249/safestyle%20pics/IMG_2513.jpg

They've got back to me and are off to clear it up, and will let me know when they have!

Pic link wouldnt embed for some reason...

 

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