I was going to post a few recommendations as I also have a slightly longer second toe but I've read so many contradictory posts to my opinion that it's making me think that my help is pointless. Just go to a well stocked shop and make sure you try standing on some small edges whilst there.
Evolv Optimus primes are designed for people with mortens toe and I find the futures and solutions best for my wide feet. Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything.
Quote from: boulderingbacon on March 10, 2014, 11:38:04 pmFuturas mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything. apart from edges where they feel woeful.
Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything.
By eliminating the edge, The Futura also claims to allow the use of smaller micro edges than a traditional shoe, because the toes can get closer to the rock and there is no rubber to "roll". Again the shoes live up to their bold claims and can perform well on the tiniest of edges, however it is worth pointing out that by their very nature the shoes will focus all the pressure onto the big toe, which can become quite painful after a few moves. So what is the catch? As I said before the Futura has become my main climbing shoe but I'm not about to throw away my other shoes just yet. There are some situations where having an pointy edge that is to opposite shape to your toes is an advantage, and in those situations a traditional edge will still rule the roost. Steep bouldering is one of these situations as the point at the front of a pair of heavily downturned shoes makes it so much easier to pull into little flakes.
Quote from: boulderingbacon on March 10, 2014, 11:38:04 pmEvolv Optimus primes are designed for people with mortens toe and I find the futures and solutions best for my wide feet. Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything. apart from edges where they feel woeful.
Isn't that by design though....