[Ally Smith]

Is there any truth to the rumour that after burning off the great and the good of the Sheffield mafia at the school room, Malc sent jaws dropping by lifting his shirt to reveal a weight belt...

[galpinos]

Is there any truth to the rumour that after burning off the great and the good of the Sheffield mafia at the school room, Malc sent jaws dropping by lifting his shirt to reveal a weight belt...

I'm sure I read that rumour, or one very similar, in OTE in a write up of one of the BBCs at the foundry.

[Motown]

Shark in recreation of splinter climbing sequence?


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[Jaspersharpe]

Ask him if he remembers the trip with the Smythe paprika incident, Ian Harrison's muesli shoes, him getting caught shoplifting etc.

Looking forward to this shark, Malc is a proper legend.

[moose]

Is he disappointed that no-one has ever made the effort to repeat Lothlorien or Leviathan? Or were they just training exercises?

Andy Earl put some effort in - I remember seeing him throw a massive tantrum when he came off towards the end.

[cowboyhat]

Is there any truth to the rumour that after burning off the great and the good of the Sheffield mafia at the school room, Malc sent jaws dropping by lifting his shirt to reveal a weight belt...

I'd always heard it was the foundry wave: he flashes all the new problems in a set, reveals weight belt.

Someone must be close to source on this one without having to ask Malc, there were always loads of people hanging around all the time.

[JackAus]

Does he still have his old board?
And when was the last time he did The Hubble Problem? 5 year gap to Splinter!

Would he come to Aus for some climbing? There's an unrepeated V14/15 20 min away... I can ask him that on facebook...
Fucking excited for this one!!

[slackline]

Good work shark 

What are his current goals/projects/motivation for climbing?

[Fultonius]

Has he seen the video of Barrows doing Pilgrimage and did he feel a sharp pain in his chest whilst watching it?

I'd genuinely be interested in the answer to this

I doubt he'd be the least bothered - a lot of his hardest Dumby testpieces were aided by a decent rubber kneepad.

[miso soup]

Awesome.  I predict the answer to if he still does weights is YES and if you ask him his weakness he'll say technique.

I can't find it now but at some point he said something like '8C is a ridiculous grade' or possibly even '9a is a ridiculous grade.'  Ask him if he still stands by that, I suspect he might talk about grade goalposts moving so ask him if he thinks anything that gets 8C now would have done back in the day.  Which also links in to 'is Hubble 9a' I suppose.

Also ask him if he has any projects left at Dumbarton, and ask Chris when the full film is coming out.

[SA Chris]

In all the talk about then interview I overlooked the feature film bit. Should be excellent; great subject and Chris Houston does a great video too. https://vimeo.com/houstonioni/videos

[Pebblespanker]

Was he ever tempted to try any of the Gaskin's unrepeated desperates, VNB, Shadowplay etc if not why not? What's his 'desert island' problem/route list and and why?

[unclesomebody]

Please can you ask him directly if Rich Simpson was stronger than him. I know (or think) they climbed together on a couple of occasions.

Also, the one other thing I'd like to know is what he felt was his absolute maximum move that he ever did and how can he quantify it in such a way that will enable others to benchmark themselves against it. I'd like to introduce the malc as a unit, where we all come up as <0.2 malc or in the case of someone being stronger, 1.2 malc. It would be great to get some vital statistics around number of one armers, one armers with weights, pull up with weights, etc.

In a similar vein, please ask if the hardest move he ever did was mental or physical. And how close to his physical limit he ever managed to go with climbing (or training for climbing). Especially how it relates to his current pursuit of weight lifting.

[Zods Beard]

I have a few..

Any goals he didn't achieve? Any regrets?

His biggest spanking?

Has he got anything 'big' left in him? (please say yes...)

Will he still keep climbing as he gets older and he maybe has to lower his standards? And how will he stay motivated??

[petejh]

Has he ever been motivated to try something like a 35m enduro 8c, or is climbing to him all about short hard things.

[kelvin]

Does he still do 200 boulder problems on a training day?

[Sloper]

I have a few..

Any goals he didn't achieve? Any regrets?

His biggest spanking?

Has he got anything 'big' left in him? (please say yes...)

Will he still keep climbing as he gets older and he maybe has to lower his standards? And how will he stay motivated??

It might not have been Malcolm but didn't some really strong bastard get really spanked on a 5+ at one of the in vogue French sports crags back in the day?

[mindfull]

I have a few..

Any goals he didn't achieve? Any regrets?

His biggest spanking?

Has he got anything 'big' left in him? (please say yes...)

Will he still keep climbing as he gets older and he maybe has to lower his standards? And how will he stay motivated??

It might not have been Malcolm but didn't some really strong bastard get really spanked on a 5+ at one of the in vogue French sports crags back in the day?

Even Ondra did not get the flash of a classic 6A in Fontainebleau ...

[gme]

 

Has he ever been motivated to try something like a 35m enduro 8c, or is climbing to him all about short hard things.
[/quote

He did cry freedom in a day 20 or so years ago. Only 8b+ but surely along the lines of what you ask.

[rosmat]

Has he ever been motivated to try something like a 35m enduro 8c, or is climbing to him all about short hard things.

I watched him piss (and I mean piss) bat route when I was about 18 (17 years ago). Cubby was belaying, conditions were tops off warm, and I've been inspired ever since.

[Three Nine]

Please can you ask him directly if Rich Simpson was stronger than him. I know (or think) they climbed together on a couple of occasions.

Rich told me that when they climbed together in the school, he was stronger than Malc. He also told me that he was selected for the GB Olympic boxing team for China 2008...

[mindfull]

And I heard he did a sub 4 mile. The guy is obviously strong. I wonder what Malc's times are on the mile and the marathon? 

[dave]

Can Malc categorically displell the rumour that when he did Hubble he was so weak we had to be carried from the car to the crag?

[moose]

Good work shark 

What are his current goals/projects/motivation for climbing?

On a related topic, I'm interested in how he feels his life now compares to when he was at the peak of his fame.  What is he doing now, and does he feel he has now achieved a good balance between "normal" life and climbing.  Presumably he is proud of his achievements, but does he have misgivings about the sacrifices they involved - does he look back at his young-self and think "bloody 'ell, I must have been mad". 

Or, could he still summon that amount of focus, given a suitable inspiration - and if so, what does he think his limits are? Any potential projects in mind, has he looked at any of the modern test-pieces and thought "that'd go".

[rodma]

Is he aware how many people he inspired at a local and much wider level?

Gary and I attribute The Malc as being the only reason that he and I were any good at all.

In a similar vein, who made him realise what was achievable?

One last question (thinking of something dense posted) Can he confirm or deny the mystic stylez incident?

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