[c3po]

Not a mile off

Mlac looks like Bob Dylan in tha pic.

[SEDur]

Nice one for getting the interview.

What would malc say his top 5 training principals are?

[Muenchener]

Question for Shark: who are you going to interview when you run out of people who have climbed Hubble?

[tubbs]

And ask him whether he realised what Jerry was doing at the NIA 2001 comp when he brushed the holds for Malc in sequence. No bias there either then 

Also ask him if he remembers the problem judge preventing him using a non-approved starting sequence before he actually pulled-on ;o)

[Clart]

I'm sure Smith commented back in the day on lack of sponsorship/funding. I'd be interested to hear how this affected his motivation and ability to reach his potential.

[petejh]

Question for Shark: who are you going to interview when you run out of people who have climbed Hubble?

Ondra?

[Dexter]

Nice one for getting the interview.

What would malc say his top 5 training principals are?

1. Stay front on
2. Stay front on
3. Stay front on
4. Stay front on
5. Stay front on

[roddersm]

Would he have climbed harder if he'd just used a drop knee?

[cuboard]

Malcolm was living with Gresham in Sharrow at the time he did Hubble.... I remember going round three times a week to train on their board.

He was basically living on coffee and Neil told me the day he did Hubble he was so fucked he could barely walk back to the car.....  Although Neil also said I tried to drive my Saab up to the Northen Corries....

[Duma]

https://www.facebook.com/#!/stonesmithholds/photos/a.1407781289491426.1073741828.1391564787779743/1408415579427997/?type=1&theater

fb link, hope it works

[slackline]

https://www.facebook.com/#!/stonesmithholds/photos/a.1407781289491426.1073741828.1391564787779743/1408415579427997/?type=1&theater

fb link, hope it works

Stonesmith Holds on Twitter

[a dense loner]

Has the interview been done? Waiting for editing?

[shark]

Has the interview been done? Waiting for editing?

Sorry, its going to be a bit of a wait.

The plan is that Malc and Chris Houston who is doing the film are down the weekend of the 3rd/4th May to Sheffield for the interview and to do some climbing.   

[miso soup]

[Nibile]

I thought Malc made the molds just by squeezing rock with his hands...
P.s. Subtitles anyone? I only understood "dad", "7c+", and "training".

[Gallant]

Okay, so we're in the Stonesmith carving workshop at the back of TCA. 13-17 sec

Err. I've done business with TCA making climbing holds, which is something I'm really exciting to be doing. 18-23 sec

Right, so I started climbing in 88' with my dad, he's been climbing since the late 70's. So straight away I could only really climb at weekends, because I didn't really have access to rock in Dunbar during the week. I ended up doing lots of training, and built my first wall in 1990, I think it was. That was a wooden board in my bed room, the walls of my bedroom were overhanging, so it was pretty easy just to screw plywood on to the walls, and then stuff loads of wooden holds on. And then straight away I was really obsessed by training, and trying to get stronger. 39-70 sec

I started in 1990, sorry, about 88', and did my first 7c+ was in 1990. Then 8b in 91, and the second ascent of Hubble at Ravens(sic) Tor in 92'. Which again, I think Ben gave 8c+ but I think now it's been upgraded to 9a, so that was one of the world's first 9a's. 70-90 sec

So I've made holds for probably, 20 years, err, to begin with just out of wood for my wooden board in Dunbar. I also experimented with some resin ones ten years ago, that's the first time I actually tried to make cast resin holds and go into the business of doing it, so that was pretty exciting. I really enjoyed the carving process. 108-126 sec

(Pointing) That's polyurethane foam, so you get different grades of that, and that's what where all the texture from the holds comes, you get little pits in the foam. This is quite a fine grained one, so you end up with quite a fine... texture. 131-141 sec

Yeah, it doesn't take long to get the basic outline, but then with something like this, quite a slopey hold, there's a lot of sanding afterwards, because obviously you want all the lines to be nice and smooth. 144-151 sec

Okay, so at the moment we've got about 180 holds, divided into 7 ranges, each range has got a different feel and look to it. But I want to quickly expand the number of holds in each range, bigger volumes and fingerboards and all sorts of training aids hopefully.  172-187 sec

Hopefully that's of some use!

[Luke Owens]

From starting climbing to climbing Hubble four years later is nuts..

[Jaspersharpe]

Everything is made of Malcolm's training but people forget that his natural ability was outrageous and not just strength wise either. His ease of movement and precision are things you can't teach or train. Or perhaps you can try to in some ways, but nobody was teaching or training anyone back then, we just learned off each other.

The advances in training and coaching and the number of people doing so prove the point. If it was all down to trying hard and learning then where are all the Malc clones?

[shurt]

Think all the best peeps have that combination of great natural ability and unflappable motivation to train and climb. Looking forward to the Malc interview. He is up there with the best in my book.

[SA Chris]

Which book is that? "The Best" by S.Hurt.

[shurt]

Yes, that's right. Its an anthology of my work. It includes my infamous unpublished article about John Gaskins' addiction to social media - penned under my nom de plume, Sandy Jam.

[roddersm]

Anyone know what this is about? - https://www.facebook.com/stonesmithholds/posts/1421898661413022

Also new blog there by Malcolm on the site.

[slackline]

Anyone know what this is about? - https://www.facebook.com/stonesmithholds/posts/1421898661413022

Err, have you read this thread from the start?  If not it should explain the pictures.

Also new blog there by Malcolm on the site.

Malc's blog on the Stonesmith Holds site.

[roddersm]

Yup, some of it, I suppose what I should have asked was whether the post and photos on FB were in relation to the topic of this thread - sorry...

[slackline]

Looks like shark is behind the camera in one of the shots so my guess would be yes.