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La Pedriza (sport/trad) beta (Read 1100 times)

Will Hunt

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La Pedriza (sport/trad) beta
February 28, 2014, 01:09:42 pm
Didn't find a dedicated topic for this so here goes.

A mate and I have just booked a very dirt cheap set of flights and hire car to Madrid for the last week in March. Currently thinking of going to La Pedriza for some trad/sport action. Does anybody have any beta on where to stay and what to climb? We can take a tent if necessary.

I've seen reports that a lot of the trad is of the run out, clip a bolt every 15m variety. In theory this is fine if the climbing is easy, if not...well...hmmmmmmm. I've read Fiend's stuff about the climbing and the sport sounds brutal. I'd be keen to give it a go as I love that variety of absorbing but safe slab climbing. However, I'm not sure if that will sustain our interest for a full week so it would be good if there was traddy stuff there to enjoy too. Does anybody know if there are routes there that are amenable (I suppose HVS is a decent benchmark for what I can expect to climb)?

Thinking about gear logistics, what would you reccomend that we take? Will a single 70m cut the mustard on the trad and the sport? There is an option to take halves if not but this might limit us slightly.

Advantage is that my buddy is a fluent speaker of the local lingo and has lived in Oviedo for a year so has a few guidebooks for Northern Spain. Translating topos and route descriptions shouldn't be a problem, so long as they're accurate!

If all else fails I expect we will bail to Siurana!

cha1n

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#1 Re: La Pedriza (sport/trad) beta
February 28, 2014, 03:35:43 pm
Hi

I can't help on specifics as I was bouldering when I went but Manzanarez el real (possibly spelt wrong) is the town right next to entrance to the park. It's where you'd be likely to find accommodation and there are supermarkets there. There is also a climbing shop just off of the main square that I'm sure will have all of the guidebooks you'll need.

We stayed in our motorhome in the car park for the national park and had no problems, don't think you're allowed to tent camp but I'm sure if you walked for a bit and found somewhere discrete that you'd have no problems. Gets cold at night though!

I'd advice that you get in touch with Talo Martin, he's a wild country athlete and writer of the new bouldering guidebook who lives locally. We went bouldering with him whilst we were there and he's a great guy and very helpful. I'm not sure how involved in trad he is but I know he sport climbs as I've seen videos of him climbing those techy slabs on the wild country vimeo page. Facebook is probably the easiest way if you use it as he seems quite active on there or message him through vimeo.

Hope the trip works out, we nearly backed out of going there and I'm so glad we went. It's a granite paradise!

Oh, take lots of climbing tape. The rock is sharp.

 

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