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West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014 (Read 6973 times)

Falling Down

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West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 24, 2014, 08:19:20 pm
Looking at the Portland pics on UKC, it looks like there's been some real damage to the crags.  I hope that it's not as widespread across Wales, Cornwall and the other exposed cliffs.  Time will tell I guess, but be careful out there over the coming months.

duncan

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#1 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 24, 2014, 08:48:46 pm
Stackpole Head, just left of Stackpole Grooves.
"The rockfall extends 2/3 of the way up the crag, destroying The Power of Laughter (E5), Not quite Plain Sailing (E3) and a new route The Ostritch (E3), which traversed the horizontal break above the roof (now removed). Condor (E3) on the right side of the roof looks to be affected too. The classic Stackpole Grooves (E1) a few metres to the right, remains intact and was climbed today in fine conditions!" [Paul Donnithorne]


(John Eales photo)


Newton Head, Blow Out and Blow Up now RIP (these were both very good).


(Paul Donnithorne photo)

I'd be surprised if there wasn't more.


Fiend

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#2 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 25, 2014, 10:35:10 am
Looking at the Portland pics on UKC, it looks like there's been some real damage to the crags.  I hope that it's not as widespread across Wales, Cornwall and the other crags that are actually decent and not best washed away into the channel

Falling Down

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#3 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 25, 2014, 10:41:42 am
Duncan - yep, I expect we'll see more.

Fiend... I though Wallsend South had some of the best grade 6 and 7 sport climbing I've ever done anywhere.

SA Chris

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#4 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 25, 2014, 10:54:11 am
Oh well, some new routing to be had!

In other news of major news of national importance the nose on the boulder with Hair Flick  on it at Muchalls has broken off!

Will Hunt

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#5 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 27, 2014, 08:02:17 am
Apparently the first pitch of Terrier's Tooth has partially gone. See UKC crag page for more info.

This is a pain as I was just wondering about a weeks cragging in Cornwall at the end of March. Does that seem ill advised in light of the potential for rockfall?

SA Chris

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#6 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 27, 2014, 08:12:47 am
Given the lack of detail it's clearly hard to say? Depending how bad it is, there are loads of other possibilities for accessing the upper pitches. The VS first pitch is the only one I've climbed! I soloed up it, realiesd I had no clue where the rest of the climb went so downclimbed the standard way. If I climb the rest of the route now do I still get the full tick :)

tomtom

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#7 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 27, 2014, 08:25:42 am
Apparently the first pitch of Terrier's Tooth has partially gone. See UKC crag page for more info.

This is a pain as I was just wondering about a weeks cragging in Cornwall at the end of March. Does that seem ill advised in light of the potential for rockfall?

I dunno... putting my geomorphologists hat on - I'd have thought a few months to let things settle down (get hot and cold, wet and dry) and finish moving around might be a good idea in many places... but theres probably loads of stuff that is fine (most probably)... How about a week on the Llyn / LPT etc..?

slackline

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#8 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 27, 2014, 11:46:05 am
Summary from BMC

I decided not to scramble up the clearly recently slipped base of the crag at the left hand end of Neddyfields last weekend, felt quite unstable and not the place to be stood around belaying.

SA Chris

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#9 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 27, 2014, 11:59:09 am
Apparently the first pitch of Terrier's Tooth has partially gone. See UKC crag page for more info.

This is a pain as I was just wondering about a weeks cragging in Cornwall at the end of March. Does that seem ill advised in light of the potential for rockfall?

I dunno... putting my geomorphologists hat on - I'd have thought a few months to let things settle down (get hot and cold, wet and dry) and finish moving around might be a good idea in many places... but theres probably loads of stuff that is fine (most probably)... How about a week on the Llyn / LPT etc..?

IIRC the first pitch(es) are on a big "shield" of rock with a ledge on the top of the shield. If this has fallen away there should hopefully be good rock behind it, which should well clean up and give decent climbing eventually but possibly / probaby at a higher grade, and without the belay, so migh thave to run P1 and 2 together. Likely a pile of rubble at the base for a while too. Only one route on in West Penwith though, not like there aren't a few hundred other fantastic routes to go at.

slackline

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#10 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 27, 2014, 12:08:47 pm


IIRC the first pitch(es) are on a big "shield" of rock with a ledge on the top of the shield. If this has fallen away there should hopefully be good rock behind it, which should well clean up and give decent climbing eventually but possibly / probaby at a higher grade, and without the belay, so migh thave to run P1 and 2 together. Likely a pile of rubble at the base for a while too. Only one route on in West Penwith though, not like there aren't a few hundred other fantastic routes to go at.

See the BMC report.

duncan

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#11 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 27, 2014, 01:35:51 pm
This is a pain as I was just wondering about a weeks cragging in Cornwall at the end of March. Does that seem ill advised in light of the potential for rockfall?

There are dozens of crags to choose from and, with judicious reading of the guide, I think you'll find plenty to go at. Chair Ladder, Carn Barra, Sennen and Land's End will be the most vulnerable major crags as they are west-facing and at sea level in many places.

I imagine most of Bosigran and some of the smaller venues like St Loy or Cribba are  less likely to be affected as they are further away from the sea. Further east, Pentire should be fine (and hopefully Cheesewring Quarry!).

Pantontino

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#12 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 27, 2014, 03:24:45 pm
I saw a bit of damage on the Range at Gogarth yesterday - quite a big chunk had come off one of the easier slabs. Apart from that didn't notice anything untoward. Doesn't seem to have been slammed as hard as the Porth Ysgo area on the Lleyn.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=692

SA Chris

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#13 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
February 27, 2014, 03:40:16 pm
Be interested to see what's been done to the boulders around the bottom of Ailadie in Co Claire.

ben

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#14 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
March 02, 2014, 05:55:55 pm
I went round carn gowla in the lifeboat this morning for the first time since the storms, numerous fresh rock scars and bits missing but no obvious damage to any routes

tregiffian

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#15 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
March 03, 2014, 10:20:27 pm
I see a report that the 'new ' Terrriers Tooth has been climbed.

slackline

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#16 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
March 04, 2014, 07:53:36 am
I see a report that the 'new ' Terrriers Tooth has been climbed.

Think you could link to this report so that those interested might read about it too?  :shrug:

tregiffian

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#17 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
March 04, 2014, 08:38:38 am
Had I the skills....
Peter greening on Cornwall C.C. site. No details.

slackline

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#18 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
March 04, 2014, 10:25:04 am
Had I the skills....

The necessary skills.

Or you can just copy and paste the URL from the address of the page you read it on into a post.

Peter greening on Cornwall C.C. site. No details.

Can't find it, theres nothing obvious on the CC website as there is no News section and the Forums aren't working and the other likely candidate has no obvious information either.

That said if there are no details reported beyond an ascent there isn't much to link to!

tregiffian

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#19 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
March 05, 2014, 02:46:51 pm
Grovelling apologies; it was on the Cornwall Climbing Club Facebook page.
Andy March, i/c the last Penwith Supplement, reports significant damage at Kenidjack. Again no photos or detail.
The omens are not good.

slackline

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#20 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
March 05, 2014, 02:56:06 pm
No need to apologise or grovel, I was just linking you to information that might be of use in the future.

I'm not registered on Farcebook so whether I'd have been able to view it questionable anyway.

tregiffian

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#21 Re: West Facing Sea Cliffs 2014
March 06, 2014, 09:09:55 am
https://www.facebook.com/groups/258696657600563/?fref=ts

Thank you for the guidance, hope I got it right. There isn`t a lot here but something is better than nothing.

 

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