[PipeSmoke]

Hey jumped on this for an hour or so the other day and had a great time. Struggled to get to the top left hand crimp reliably though, am quite short and couldnt reach with left foot low but struggled to get foot high. Any tips? Think maybe a high right heel before?
Also is it best to go for top with left or right hand?
Found the climbing really good, classic line.

[r-man]

This is one of those problems which people like to film, so there is a ton of video beta out there...

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/39-gardom-s-south-moorside/boulders/102-suavito/problems/494-suavito#.UwsqKYUX-Bo

[Johnny Brown]

The crimp broke a while back, which might explain why folk in the films make it look massive.

[r-man]

When was this?

[Johnny Brown]

There is a thread on the forum somewhere, autumn 2013 I think. Last time I tried it, it felt small.

[r-man]

Must have missed that. Haven't been to Gardoms South for years.

[PipeSmoke]

Yeah seen a few of the videos ,none of them are very close though to see left foot properly, was just wondering if any tricks really.

Has the crimp breaking changed the grade at all do you know? Have only recently started trying it , so have no idea how much its changed. The left hand being shitter might mean left hand only way to go for top maybe.

[Duma]

I did it late November last year, so probably post break? got LF high before going to the crimp, was prob the crux move for me, though took more goes to commit to the top. At the top went RH first, seemed best way if you can get the RF heel solid

[PipeSmoke]

I did it late November last year, so probably post break? got LF high before going to the crimp, was prob the crux move for me, though took more goes to commit to the top. At the top went RH first, seemed best way if you can get the RF heel solid

Awesome thanks for the advice. Yeah landing looks like could go tits up, seems okay with spot and 2 pads though

[tomtom]

RobL who occasionally posts on this has to do a full on leap to get the LH crimp.. (he keeps his RH on the arete - but its a both feet off jump for it..)

[PipeSmoke]

RobL who occasionally posts on this has to do a full on leap to get the LH crimp.. (he keeps his RH on the arete - but its a both feet off jump for it..)

This is how i tried it , felt hard to catch though so was seeing if another way, guess i will just have to man up!