[EdGowSmith]

In Godrevy for a couple of days and need some info about certain problems.

Today I did problem 49 in the John Hooper guide, and it felt hard for 6b! I've seen a video online where holds out left were used after the dyno, which I didn't use, but rather went straight up with the left hand to the ledge. What holds are in for this?

I also did Virginia, though was unsure exactly where it went, and it felt closer to V7 than V6. I started right hand in the vague crack at a slot and left hand on a good flat hold out left. I then went dynamically to a good hold higher up with the left and then continued up from there. Does that sound about right?

Also, there is a problem called "Useless Pinch, V6" logged on UKClimbing. The description is a little confusing and I'm unsure about its whereabouts. Anyone know where it goes?

Finally, has Crack Pot settled at V8+?

Thanks for your help 

[Andy W]

So are conditions ok?

Virginia sounds about right, although the consensus is that its easy V6, maybe some footholds were covered by high sand/pebble levels.

Crack Pot as far as I know has only been climbed by Dave Biggs. The start hold has been damaged in the storms, I looked about three weeks ago, the state of it then would have made it harder in my opinion and I think 7b+ was a bit on the ungenerous side to start with!

I've just looked up prob 49, the grade is eng tech 6b, there are no rules, I looked at this a few weeks ago and its had a few holds changed a bit.

Useless pinch, is in the bowling alley, if you approach from the sea its on the left, often filled with sea weed and recently suffered from a storm battering.

I'm keen to get down to Godrevy today or tommorow, see whats still standing... what time are you planning to be there?

[EdGowSmith]

Thanks for that 

Yeah, conditions aren't too bad, though the Cave was dripping yesterday - the Sweep was a stream! Gullies were dry as was Virginia and the Bowling Alley didn't seem too wet.

Yeah I was basically smearing for Virginia, sand is certainly higher than last time I was here.
My friend climbed Crack Pot last summer and thought hard 7B+ was fair with the right beta, starting hold does feel a bit more slopey now though!
I think I'm going to be in the Bowling Alley just after 12 today, and then move into the Cave later on.
Possibly the same tomorrow, though I might go to Carn Brea in the  morning.

[Andy W]

That would make Virginia harder, I seem to remember at least one foothold!

Forecast and tides look ok, I catch you down there after lunch.

[EdGowSmith]

Alright, see you then

[jstrongman]

How did you get on what is the state of play interms of sand levels, seepage and any evidence of signifiacnt storm damage?

[Andy W]

The little sharp arete as you walk in the gullies has fallen down, the sloper on 'cracked pot' is a bit worse/damaged, so not much change considering the storms!

Pebble levels were good, allowing rare repeats of 'trigonometry' and 'perfect evening light' (both usually above a rock pool these days).

[jstrongman]

Good news on the pebbles, be good to be able to do triganometry and PEL again. Hope the pebbles will be still there in a couple of weeks/months when get a chance to get out again.

[Andy W]

Would be good, but I wouldn't bank on it.