How do you know when you just need to knuckle down and dig a little bit deeper and when it's your body saying it's time for a rest??
No it wasnt, you're the one who asked for advice on this!
At the moment I am just bouldering as I've only got limited time available to me and a bouldering centre at my disposal. As a result I've been focusing on Conditioning & Strength/Power work almost exclusively for the past 8-12 weeks. Ordinarily I would also be running at least 1 AeroCap session a week but time/motivation/available facilities for that at the moment are a little restricted.
Quote from: abarro81 on February 14, 2014, 10:25:27 amNo it wasnt, you're the one who asked for advice on this!We'll have to disagree on that, I think Rodma's comment was crappy and unhelpful, it didn't constitute advice in anyway, it was simply him having a dig at someone he thought was just flinging themselves at the wall in an unstructured and uninformed way, I guess he based his opinion on the fact that I don't comment on the forum very much. Though I acknowledge that in making that assumption I'm not doing any better than he did in the first instance.
How do you know when you just need to knuckle down and dig a little bit deeper and when it's your body saying it's time for a rest?? ........... I'm fearful of overtraining and fearful of injury........ In order to confine the discussion a little, I'm generally referring to high intensity work, i.e strength/power.
If you're sure you're tired physically and way off your max then I can't imagine you'll be doing useful strength training - either switch to an enduro orientated session or bin it IMO (often easier said than done, as with all these things). I think Shauna's point is aimed at those who just decide they can't be arsed to try hard. E.g. on Weds I felt tired, was in a shit mood and my skin hurt, but I was equalling my deadhang PBs so I knew I just needed to push on, man up and try harder.
on Weds I felt tired, was in a shit mood and my skin hurt
Thanks for the response and sorry for being arsey, one of those days.
For example, one of my clues to how my fingers are doing is related to inflammation. When I'm fully recovered and I flex the tip of my finger towards my palm, the first pad should be able to press against the third joint. I check this twice a day every day for all of my fingers. Once in the morning when I get up, and once in the afternoon. When I'm carrying fatigue, I can tell quite a bit by how close they'll get.
I can get none of mine to to touch the third joint, my index fingers will just touch below with no assistance. My middle 2 and little fingers touch somewhere near the bottom of my palm.
the concept of having a check that you perform is a good one, but set your own benchmark and don't use someone elses.
I sort of knew that as the reason my fingers don't bend much is more likely due to 40 years of abuse. Rather than last nights session.I was just responding to Schnell.
There is a big difference between training hard and having a load of long shit sessions down the wall. That's where most climbers go wrong on this subject.