[Johnny Brown]

If... is too risky, one can simply not climb it either

No no no. Everything must be made as easy and safe as possible so as many people can 'climb' it. Anything else is elitist bullshit laid down by willy waving wankers..

[SA Chris]

True, I think it needs a bolt just above the break.

[Doylo]

True, I think it needs a bolt just above the break.

Would be happy to sort that

[gme]

Having climbed most of my bouldering life with people much lighter than me i spent many a day being a ladder.

[Fiend]

I still like Dave's idea of putting a cam in the break. As long as Shark doesn't ab down to check the size and has to guesstimate what to take up with him or get thrown up as he hangs on getting pumped 

[lagerstarfish]

I suggest we recycle some of the Burbage plantation and build ladders to be left at all the main bouldering buttresses thereabouts

minimum carbon footprint etc etc

maybe gantries as well for any traverses higher than 18" off the floor

[i_a_coops]

In terms of ethics, it's always worth remembering there is the choice simply not to do something if it's too risky. If leading Braille Trail is too risky, one can simply not climb it. If highballing WSS is too risky, one can simply not climb it either.

There's always the option of 'not climbing' something. I don't think that statement actually makes a point.

To continue with the Braille Trail example - TRing it once doesn't even polish it, or wear out the gear placements, as much as repeated GU attempts would, let alone a headpoint. It also has the added advantage that it would wind people up on the internet, what's not to like? 
 

Everything must be made as easy and safe as possible so as many people can 'climb' it. Anything else is elitist bullshit laid down by willy waving wankers.

Not quite what I was trying to say. My point was that people should be allowed to do what they want as long as it doesn't ruin things for other people. If someone got loads of media coverage/groupies/cash for saying they'd done something and it turned out they had done something ethically dodgy in order to get that tick then I would agree that was reprehensible.

[Stu Littlefair]

This whole thread would be a lot more interesting if Shark actually had claimed WSS without going to the top, or if anyone else in the climbing community really cared that he had.

[Richie Crouch]

Everyone quit hating on the geez!

Get to the break, match and drop off, jobs a good'un.

[Stu Littlefair]

I wouldn't even match. Just tap the back of your hand and head to the Foundry to start the bragging.

[Stubbs]

Just tap the back of your hand

AKA Parisellas Match

[tomtom]

My thoughts - as I've been working WSS for the best part of 2 years..

I have been involved in one 'laddering' session at WSS with Shark... he (and me) used it mainly to feel where the best part of the third sidepull to catch is/was. This was not possible from the break (reaching down) nor from the right side traversing in from half way up... For me, this was a bit of a breakthrough as I found exactly the right place to put my hand on said side pull - and I started to catch it regularly.. In someways I'd rather have worked it out from the ground - but now I've been up for a fondle on the ladder (!!) I'm not feeling guilty....

I got to the same point Shark is now (popping and not getting the pocket) but subsequent back injury has prevented me having another go, but I don't feel a ladder is necessary any more (for me..). I have thought quite a lot about the top out - and if I was on my own and caught the porthole/jug I think I would have a try at the top out - but probably drop off and think to myself that I'd done most of the problem - but not ticked it. A top out is part of it.

The top out is something I'll wait for until there are enough pads (2 or 3 are fine) and importantly a spotter... I'd quite like to work out the topout having done the problem in a ground up stylee - but may well end up practicing the top out enough so there were no surprises by traversing in etc...

Just my brain dump on the affair

(we did pad the top of the ladder with a rock boot over each prod so it didnt mark/damage the rock btw..)

[Bonjoy]

To continue with the Braille Trail example - TRing it once doesn't even polish it, or wear out the gear placements, as much as repeated GU attempts would,

So what you're saying is that climbing something once polishes it less than climbing it several times, therefore toproping is better than traditional leading  . Because obviously top ropers always lower off and go home when they fall off the flash and ground-uppers always take repeated big lobs from near the top. You are Graham Hoey and I claim my £5 thank you.

[i_a_coops]

Well they're both 'worse' for the route than 'not climbing it'. 

But we're well off the original topic of sharks with knees on ladders.

[Fiend]

Is he using his knees too?? Jesus fuck. Surely they are ONLY allowed for the final mantle on the TOP-OUT....

[nai]

Also allowed on the pads before you start when you pray to fuck that this will be the go.

I have been involved in one 'laddering' session at WSS with Shark... he (and me) used it mainly to feel where the best part of the third sidepull to catch is/was. This was not possible from the break (reaching down) nor from the right side traversing in from half way up.

Strangely I did mange to find the hold, your arms must be much shorter than mine 

[tomtom]

long levers... #excuse

[a dense loner]

I laughed at welford carrying a ladder to spring voyage, I'm not laughing now

[DaveC]

Really, I can't believe this thread has run to four pages! Finally gives me a chance to use this...



...and I'm all for pink Anasazis but Pan au Chocalat would be preferable.

[mindfull]

Worst thing would be to fall of the ladder.

[pyrosis]

[SEDur]

Has anyone made any 'ladder-match' jokes yet?

[Fiend]

First Ascent of The Penrose Step V14 • Carlo Traversi

Yup, he tops it out rather than getting to the big slopey rail and dropping off 

[Danny]

First Ascent of The Penrose Step V14 • Carlo Traversi

Yup, he tops it out rather than getting to the big slopey rail and dropping off 

Just like The Rail at Bowden? Funnily, don't recall so many folk raising an eyebrow at that.

For the record, I couldn't really care less how people choose to draw a line in the sand with this sort of thing, even though I personally like topping out.

[Fiend]

Is that The Rail that has only had one ascent that deliberately stopped off at a drop off jug because "joins a horrible sandy, but easy, top out of an E4 at that point which i would guess hasn't been done for 20 years and will be pretty covered in heather", or a different Rail??