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Maintaining climbing fitness in a gym (Read 9900 times)

mindfull

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#25 Re: Maintaining climbing fitness in a gym
February 07, 2014, 12:17:52 pm
 ;D

I have the impression that once you plateau at a certain level (e.g. 7b) by climbing 4 times, a week, local training of some muscle groups, may benefit some people. Then these physical trainers can be a very good consult for good form. If I look a these crossfit bad form atitudes, these are asking for injuries.
I did not plateau yet by just climbing alot, so I don't do much additional exercises apart from some antagonist training and sloper deadhangs.

a dense loner

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#26 Re: Maintaining climbing fitness in a gym
February 07, 2014, 12:22:31 pm
I think most people take supplementary training out of context. Doing weights, core, trx, rings, etc, etc  is not supposed to make you stronger or better than me it's supposed to make you stronger or better than you, than you would be without doing them.

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#27 Re: Maintaining climbing fitness in a gym
February 07, 2014, 12:56:10 pm
I think most people take supplementary training out of context. Doing weights, core, trx, rings, etc, etc  is not supposed to make you stronger or better than me it's supposed to make you stronger or better than you, than you would be without doing them.

Yes

Paul B

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#28 Re: Maintaining climbing fitness in a gym
February 07, 2014, 01:37:33 pm
I see exactly 1 exercise with the kettleball Paul. And to me, it seems that these people with a physical trainer, in the usa or elsewhere are crushing way harder than you.

And more than 1 with a TRX, knees-up, archer rows etc.? Did this post / I touch a nerve?

The strike of the lone mustard seed (which is rolling around somewhere in my keyboard) prevented my OP from saying "trend" too. I'm avoiding commenting on the latter half of your post other than to say it doesn't help your argument, but if you'd like to go down the road of character assassination then feel free; I'm a distinctly average climber who spent a large proportion of the past year pulling on gear.

What I'm seeing (in the UK) is that various people are offering coaching services, many of whom push these supplementary forms of exercise (filtered down from various videos as above) whether or not they're relevant at all (even if we concede the point of my lonely friend).

The reasons I picked fault with that exercise in the video in particular is the terrible reasoning given (which is becoming familiar). The motion of 'cutting' and the one of pulling your knees to your abdomen aren't similar.

On an aside I've found supplementary exercises to be useful in the past. Rings helped stabilise my shoulders that felt dangerously close to exploding, that said I'm unsure whether improving my L-sit ability (you remember Dense) on the rings had any crossover to climbing whatsoever.

Sasquatch

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#29 Re: Maintaining climbing fitness in a gym
February 07, 2014, 05:02:04 pm
Adding to this whole thing is what place do they have in your overalltrainig/climbing program.  I'd bet based on timing and the conversations they had that the D Wood training was his equivilant of "topping off" or off season type strength training. 

I think this idea and weights/strength training could be useful for most climbers.  It's all about when where.  I do a 6-8 week period in the early winter(Nov-Dec) where I drastically reduce my climbing and do overall body strength training.  Then I try to do once a week or once every two weeks maintenence sessions.  Usually in late April/May I'll do another 3-4 week session or climbing specific strength training (Deadlifts, Heavy Core, Wtd pullups, Etc.).  This session is designed to re-topoff my overall body strength.  It also seems to help with injury prevention for me.  All of this is based around enough climbing that his can be helpful.  If I didn't have time/motivation to get the climbing volume in, then I wouldn't be doing the weights....

Back to the OP, What Stu said.

And get creative as the boredom sets in.  Watch some TV or a movie and treat it like a drinking game every time that say a certain word/do a certain thing/etc. you have to do a pullup/hard hold/etc.  You'de be surprised how quickly you can get to 10-20minutes doing this with the right words/shows.


i_a_coops

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#30 Re: Maintaining climbing fitness in a gym
February 08, 2014, 10:18:30 am
I definitely agree fingerboarding should take priority over the gym. In any case, if I do both then the worst case scenario is that fingerboarding stops me building up loads of scar tissue in my joints and I end up ripped like Arnie.

I remember reading something ages ago about working small muscle groups (e.g. on a fingerboard) being more effective if you also work big muscle groups in the same session (like, maybe, pressups & pullups. Is that total bullshit or worth thinking about?

mrjonathanr

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#31 Re: Maintaining climbing fitness in a gym
February 08, 2014, 10:49:04 am

I will attempt to find evidence to back this up over the week.


Mr X wants to climb Gaskins' limestone problem and and trains on grit slabs.
Ms y has the same goal but does something physically arduous .

 :lol: I like it...I bet the evidence is out there.

To the Op. The big muscle group comment might relate to testosterone procution which is implicated in hypertrophy but will be low when small muscles only are used...as bodybuilders know, if you want big guns, train your legs too.

IOf you can't climb doing something to stay in nick is going to be mentally and to some extent physically beneficial. But  the closer to climbing, with its specific strengths and movements the better. I guess that's a fingerboard. The other exercises might help all-round health too.

Now i'm off to the board for 40 mins max (cos of golfer's) followed by a boring hour on the treadmill and a swim. it's not like properly climbing though, but that's obvious.
« Last Edit: February 08, 2014, 10:55:02 am by mrjonathanr »

mindfull

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#32 Re: Maintaining climbing fitness in a gym
February 09, 2014, 12:13:14 am
Good to see this rolling on  :lets_do_it_wild: (got my first negative karma), and yeah Paul, I was drunk  :bounce:

IMHO,  if you stop climbing every two months and only do some silly pushups for a week or two, it will make you stronger. I am not sure but there is this outrageous concepts of max supercompensation and  :strongbench:, it might get you strong ...  :jab:

But anyway it's funny how we get so intimate about these things  ;D

 

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