[Stewart]

Perfectly possible as well without any fingerboarding at all up to around 7C.

Fingerboards were invented after 8As, ergo....

Good point, I was just speaking from personal experience which at present does not include anything above my 7C glass ceiling!

[account_inactive]

I was 38 when I did my first 8A, but only 22(?) when I did my first 8a... But only 74 Kg at 1.83m. Started climbing in 1978. You work it out, just makes me feel old.

Which font 8A out of interest?

[Andy W]

I'm getting really confused...is it font 8A or font 8a?

I could have sworn that font grades had lower case (as the 7&8 guides and all other  Fontainebleau guidebooks I can lay my hands on) and French sport used capitals. Is it just me or are they interchangeable these days?

Font 8a took me 5 seconds to climb aged 49 years. French sport 8A took me a minute and a half aged 48 years (thats if I can count a boulder traverse). When it stops raining I might climb a route.

[tomtom]

I'm getting really confused...is it font 8A or font 8a?

I could have sworn that font grades had lower case (as the 7&8 guides and all other  Fontainebleau guidebooks I can lay my hands on) and French sport used capitals. Is it just me or are they interchangeable these days?

Font 8a took me 5 seconds to climb aged 49 years. French sport 8A took me a minute and a half aged 48 years (thats if I can count a boulder traverse). When it stops raining I might climb a route.

err.. I was under the impression that 8A was a font grade and 8a a french sport climbing grade...

[Andy W]

I'm getting really confused...is it font 8A or font 8a?

I could have sworn that font grades had lower case (as the 7&8 guides and all other  Fontainebleau guidebooks I can lay my hands on) and French sport used capitals. Is it just me or are they interchangeable these days?

Font 8a took me 5 seconds to climb aged 49 years. French sport 8A took me a minute and a half aged 48 years (thats if I can count a boulder traverse). When it stops raining I might climb a route.

err.. I was under the impression that 8A was a font grade and 8a a french sport climbing grade...

I've just checked, the 7&8 is lower case, the JG purple guide is lower case and so is bleau.info. Is their anything more definitive?

[r-man]

I think capitalisation is a fairly recent convention, so older guidebooks will be unlikely to use it. Recent guidebooks might not bother either - there's not generally much need to differentiate between font and sport grade in a dedicated bouldering guidebook. It's pretty useful on the internet though.

The grades in this [Fontainebleau] system are similar to the French route grades, but have different meaning. An 8a route is significantly easier than an 8A boulder problem. To reduce confusion, some people write the bouldering grades in upper-case letters (e.g. "8B+" vs. "8b+").

[Andy W]

The old peak bouldering, uses lower case, as does Bouldering in Ireland, e-bloc. Maybe I'm just nostalgic for the differentiation.

[Johnny Brown]

It's a very recent convention, seems to have been invented for the internet where the context is often missing. Makes sense but I'm not sure capitalised grades will ever look right to me.

[Andy W]

I think capitalisation is a fairly recent convention, so older guidebooks will be unlikely to use it. Recent guidebooks might not bother either - there's not generally much need to differentiate between font and sport grade in a dedicated bouldering guidebook. It's pretty useful on the internet though.

The grades in this [Fontainebleau] system are similar to the French route grades, but have different meaning. An 8a route is significantly easier than an 8A boulder problem. To reduce confusion, some people write the bouldering grades in upper-case letters (e.g. "8B+" vs. "8b+").

I agree otherwise you have to prefix every mention of 8a/A with 'font' or 'sport'.

[Oldmanmatt]

I was 38 when I did my first 8A, but only 22(?) when I did my first 8a... But only 74 Kg at 1.83m. Started climbing in 1978. You work it out, just makes me feel old.

Which font 8A out of interest?

It was Biceps power. Though I'd never claim anything over 7B as truly "got"coz I'm the scrappiest of climbers and good at ignoring the odd dab...

It was nicely thuggy, which suits me. Took about three months of three afternoons a week...

Came close on the traverse of the big Boulder at Savasonna too, but never had the stamina to link the whole thing  

I did try and pull on to the Dagger a couple years later.

Couldn't and failed to make any significant progress on the few 7C's I tried with the DMM lads.

Started to get some strength back, later that year and was making good progress on some of the Saddle Tor problems but as you know, I lost interest for a while...

To the OP... I own and run a climbing wall. I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45. Last Wednesday was the first time I put my shoes on since. I'm feeling stronger already, and finnishing V5 and 6 problems already...

[Sloper]

I think people need to accept that not everyone can climb 8a or indeed 7a for that matter regardless as to their motivation, dedication, training and so on.

If you're going to have an objective why not just say you want to climb the hardest that you can, that way if you apply yourself with a zen like purpose and absolute dedication and 'only' reach 7c+ you can still chalk that up as success and be proud of yourself rather than chasing an ephemeral dream that will only ever result in failure.

I found this out trying to shave 19 seconds off my personal best for 10k, blood sweat and tears and a I never acheived it, much better if I'd just said to my self I'm never going to have another race like my PB and move on (in my case to getting fat)

[Oldmanmatt]

I was 38 when I did my first 8A, but only 22(?) when I did my first 8a... But only 74 Kg at 1.83m. Started climbing in 1978. You work it out, just makes me feel old.

Which font 8A out of interest?

It was Biceps power. Though I'd never claim anything over 7B as truly "got"coz I'm the scrappiest of climbers and good at ignoring the odd dab...

It was nicely thuggy, which suits me. Took about three months of three afternoons a week...

Came close on the traverse of the big Boulder at Savasonna too, but never had the stamina to link the whole thing  

I did try and pull on to the Dagger a couple years later.

Couldn't and failed to make any significant progress on the few 7C's I tried with the DMM lads.

Started to get some strength back, later that year and was making good progress on some of the Saddle Tor problems but as you know, I lost interest for a while...

To the OP... I own and run a climbing wall. I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45. Last Wednesday was the first time I put my shoes on since. I'm feeling stronger already, and finnishing V5 and 6 problems already...

Completely failed to make the point I was intending in either of those posts.

My point was...

You don't know until you try.

You will reach a certain level, beyond which progress will become much harder. But where that point is, depends on you and your dedication/talent/etc (or in my case, a specific problem).


And in the end, Sloper is right (damn it!).

[lagerstarfish]

not everyone can climb 8a or indeed 7a for that matter regardless as to their motivation, dedication, training and so on

you can still chalk that up as success and be proud of yourself rather than chasing an ephemeral dream that will only ever result in failure.

I can hear Hayek creaking away in the background

[ghisino]

not everyone can climb 8a or indeed 7a for that matter regardless as to their motivation, dedication, training and so on

you can still chalk that up as success and be proud of yourself rather than chasing an ephemeral dream that will only ever result in failure.

I can hear Hayek creaking away in the background

hayek, lama und fischhuber. The famous austrian school.

[miso soup]

I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45.

Damn.  During an iron cross attempt or some related training exercise?  I'd quite like to do an iron cross at some point but I've only just got a normally functioning shoulder back for the first time in years so now maybe isn't the time to dive into that.

[Oldmanmatt]

I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45.

Damn.  During an iron cross attempt or some related training exercise?  I'd quite like to do an iron cross at some point but I've only just got a normally functioning shoulder back for the first time in years so now maybe isn't the time to dive into that.

No..

I was fine on the night. I actually felt quite good and thought I'd push out an extra set of half crosses at the end of my session, but came to failure at much lower reps than I'd expected. Stretched out as normal.
Woke up the next morning in agony. Worst movement was trying to point at something, or reaching for something.
Now really struggling with dips and anything dynamic.
And just plain scared.
Still clicks like a bastard too.

[mrjonathanr]

I really hurt the rotator cuff a couple of times-needed arm in a sling at one point. It got better. I'm sure yours will too, frustrating while it mends tho

[Sloper]

not everyone can climb 8a or indeed 7a for that matter regardless as to their motivation, dedication, training and so on

you can still chalk that up as success and be proud of yourself rather than chasing an ephemeral dream that will only ever result in failure.

I can hear Hayek creaking away in the background

I'd seek specialist help if you can hear that.

[miso soup]

I was fine on the night. I actually felt quite good and thought I'd push out an extra set of half crosses at the end of my session, but came to failure at much lower reps than I'd expected. Stretched out as normal.
Woke up the next morning in agony. Worst movement was trying to point at something, or reaching for something.
Now really struggling with dips and anything dynamic.
And just plain scared.
Still clicks like a bastard too.

Brutal.  Sounds a lot like mine except with one arm negatives instead of crosses.  But could also have been the big chunks of steel I was lugging around all day before going climbing, and probably wasn't helped by getting bugger all sleep before that.   

Mine wasn't actually the rotator cuff, although I thought it was at first.  It also didn't sort itself out, it needed a good physio to do it.  And it still clicks, but the physio says not to worry about that.  If it doesn't improve and you want physio recommendations feel free to hit me up.

[miso soup]

Also, on the actual thread topic, I'd like to think that my shoulder being fucked for the past few years is the reason I haven't climbed 8A, but actually it's taken me the best part of a decade to get to about 6C so I'll probably never climb anywhere near 8A, despite the tangent weight thread revealing that I'm close to the ideal height and weight to do so.  Started too late, crap genes, injury-prone, never done any deadlifting...  7A at some point in the next couple years would be nice.

[andy popp]

36 years and counting ...

[Fiend]

I like thrash metal and kittens, but am a Leo. Does that help??

[as646]

I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45.

Damn.  During an iron cross attempt or some related training exercise?  I'd quite like to do an iron cross at some point but I've only just got a normally functioning shoulder back for the first time in years so now maybe isn't the time to dive into that.

No..

I was fine on the night. I actually felt quite good and thought I'd push out an extra set of half crosses at the end of my session, but came to failure at much lower reps than I'd expected. Stretched out as normal.
Woke up the next morning in agony. Worst movement was trying to point at something, or reaching for something.
Now really struggling with dips and anything dynamic.
And just plain scared.
Still clicks like a bastard too.

Any idea what it was specifically that did it?

I've been thinking of starting to try and work towards the iron cross, but somewhat hesitant for fear of injuring myself much in the same way you did. I suppose if you take it really slowly by and large you should be able to avoid most issues though? I do a fair amount of training on the rings anyway, with the aim of eventually getting a v-sit, and I still haven't been able to get a front lever!

[rodma]

I like thrash metal and kittens, but am a Leo. Does that help??

I'm not sure fiend, cos i like thrash metal and kittens too, but am a scorpio

took me about 14 years to do my first font 8a, but had climbed 7c and 7c+ pretty early on. didn't progress any further until i had less time to train and climb on rock (and go on trips etc. which i had had many of when i was younger), so trained a little smarter.

there are many different styles of problem out there, so i'm sure you could find something suitable to aim for.

[Oldmanmatt]

I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45.

Damn.  During an iron cross attempt or some related training exercise?  I'd quite like to do an iron cross at some point but I've only just got a normally functioning shoulder back for the first time in years so now maybe isn't the time to dive into that.

No..

I was fine on the night. I actually felt quite good and thought I'd push out an extra set of half crosses at the end of my session, but came to failure at much lower reps than I'd expected. Stretched out as normal.
Woke up the next morning in agony. Worst movement was trying to point at something, or reaching for something.
Now really struggling with dips and anything dynamic.
And just plain scared.
Still clicks like a bastard too.

Any idea what it was specifically that did it?

I've been thinking of starting to try and work towards the iron cross, but somewhat hesitant for fear of injuring myself much in the same way you did. I suppose if you take it really slowly by and large you should be able to avoid most issues though? I do a fair amount of training on the rings anyway, with the aim of eventually getting a v-sit, and I still haven't been able to get a front lever!

Honestly not sure.

I'd had shoulder issues in the past, which had faded away.
But I'd had a long layoff from training/climbing (ironically because I was too busy building a climbing wall...) and hadn't started into serious training until the end of August. I'd been doing that DPM "the one workout every climber should do" as a warm up.
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/one-workout-every-climber-should-do
Which is my main route to regaining stability now.

I would, by the way, call myself a 7A/B climber. That's usually and achievable problem in a single session (with notable exceptions, I have never been able to repeat Ripple wall at Bone Hill, this may be psychological), 7C would be my project grade (many have been abandoned), where I can usually make individual moves, but not string it together. I think I've only tried 2 or 3 8A's. Just to try. Biceps Power was the only one where I could immediately pull on and make the first 3(?) moves (the under cling traverse to the crack) and that gave me enough of a boost to keep at it.
Currently not helped by lack of opportunity to get outdoors and inability to love Dartmoor granite. Pining for Spanish Sandstone and sun kissed Lime. Also, despite being in Torquay for over a year, still to sample the delights of Anstey's.