[Muenchener]

The Familie Muench uk tour continues, and we just made the transition from deepest rural Norfolk to deepest East End London. Hoping to get a wall session in.

Although we're staying in Bethnal Green I don't want to go to Mile End; they charge a registration fee which makes it quite expensive. I went to the old Arch a few years ago and quite liked it, so that seems to be the obvious option. Burnt Oak is too far away, so Sarf London it is. I won't be able to motivate the lad for a two-wall mega session (he has other priorities here e.g. seeing the guards at the palace).

So which one? Prime requirement is that my son needs a good range of interesting easier stuff up to around 5B/C. I'll take whatever I get.

[jfdm]

Biscuit for me, there is plenty of climbing at all standards.
You will get a good session there, it will also be cooler at Biscuit.
Roof, slab, comp wall, new islands, circuit board and large training board.
Off the top of my head it opens at 12 on weekdays.

If I do go to building 1 it is because I get down too early and Biscuit isn't open.
Or just variety.
Building one has glass roof so if warm/sunny can be a green house.

Biscuit / building 1 are rammed in evening so best to go early.

I now climb at North easier for me to get to and closer to work.
Problem setting is great and less crowded.

Have a great time on holiday!

[Coops_13]

Both are good walls, for different things:

Biscuit:
Comp wall
50 board
circuit board
wide range of problems throughout centre with lots of slabs, a roof, a couple of islands

Building One: Newer and less stuffy
Traverses wall
Tunnel
circuit board
wide range of problems throughout centre with lots of slabs, a couple of overhangs, a prow

I personally prefer the Biscuit Factory. I think you'll get a good range of easier stuff at both.

[joel182]

Another vote for the Biscuit factory - though both would be a good choice.

I'd also suggest the Castle - some boulders outside if it's a nice day, the most visually impressive of the London walls, and a decent range of blocs - however, it is expensive and might be harder for you to get to?

[Rocksteady]

You also have the option of Vauxwall, though personally I think Biscuit is better except in the heat, when the aircon at Vauxwall really comes into its own.

I prefer the main/original Biscuit venue to the new Building One, think the layout is better and find there are more areas with reliably good problems. Good setting at all the Arch walls, though grading is generally on the soft side.

[petekitso]

I would also go for the biscuit - a rare moment of UKB consensus - but they are literally five minutes stroll apart so you could have a look at both without paying again. I think the variety of angles at the biscuit is a bit better.

Is the consensus view that the grading there is a little soft then? (Ideally, it would be great if loads of people now say that it is extremely stiff but I will prepare for bad news)

[csl]

I'd also say Biscuit is better. Though Building One slightly better for a V1/2 climber, so might be better for your son.

And yes, the grading is v. soft in general i think. Though i tend to find the Comp wall at the biscuit a little more accurate. 

[petekitso]

Bah . . .

[Coops_13]

I think it's soft if you have strong fingers (same as most indoors I find). I find the grading tough!

[csl]

Sorry Pete! I just think compared to how hard problems of a similar grade at Mile End/The Castle feel Biscuit is generally London's 'softest' centre. The V2's at the Westway would be V5 at building one...

[petekitso]

Hey no worries at all. I don't really climb at any other walls at the moment so it's worth knowing.

[Muenchener]

We went to the Biscuit this afternoon. Thanks for the recommendation: most importantly, the young 'un loved it was delighted with his triumphs on a couple of blues. I was quite taken with the pink & greens - interesting movement challenges rather than being desperately strenuous.

I thought the grades seemed felt consistent with most other indoor walls I've been to: ~V4 felt similar to ~6B at Boulderwelt.