[Dave Flanagan]

I have just finished compiling “Bouldering for Beginners” a free ebook that is aimed at people who are just starting to get into bouldering and want to understand a bit more about it. Topics covered include the basics, equipment, staying safe, movement and bouldering outdoors. The content is mostly based on Bouldering Essentials but at only 42 pages long it can’t delve too deeply into the larger topics, for example the movement chapter is only a few pages compared to over 60 in Bouldering Essentials.

The ebook is free to all, download it using the link below

www.threerockbooks.com/download/boulderingForBeginners.pdf (11.5MB PDF file).

[kelvin]

I'll have a read later on the kobo 

[lagerstarfish]

pah!

you can't fool me

this just a way to get me hooked so that I'll move on to paying for the proper book

 


had a quick look - impressed me

that's a fantastic freebee for new/potential boulderers

[SA Chris]

Yup, common tactic, free gateway publications, then once the punters are hooked you start pushing the heavier stuff; beautifully produced guidebooks, advanced "how to" guides, DVDs. Next thing you're selling subscriptions to De Agostini partworks, each one costing considerably more than the introductory offer.

[Boredboy]

Why would you want to get more people into bouldering?

[Dave Flanagan]

The jig is up.

Why would you want to get more people into bouldering?

So they buy my book of course.

[Boredboy]

  nice reply!

[lagerstarfish]

I think I'd be happier if you had only posted links to the free book on web sites used only by attractive, single women with their own cars and good sense of humour

[Dave Flanagan]

The jig is up.

Why would you want to get more people into bouldering?

So they buy my book of course.

Seriously though. I don't have any interest in recruiting people to bouldering, my book, and the ebook, were written to inform people who already were interested. I think the whole community benefits if new boulderers have some idea how to behave, especially when making the transition from indoors to out.

[JackAus]

Guessing you wouldn't mind but I've shared the link to a couple of Aus climbing groups... Some climbers this way still look down on us boulderers! They need some educayshun...

[Dave Flanagan]

Guessing you wouldn't mind but I've shared the link to a couple of Aus climbing groups... Some climbers this way still look down on us boulderers! They need some educayshun...

That's great, thanks.

[Jack.G]

What are the Route grades in the comparisson table all about?

The only reaosn i can think to reference route grades would be to represent the level of bouldering grade in respect to an average crux at the route grade, if this is the case then the table is way out.

I will be buying a copy, looks very good indeed

[Lund]

The only reaosn i can think to reference route grades would be to represent the level of bouldering grade in respect to an average crux at the route grade, if this is the case then the table is way out.

I agree the grades are way out.  I'd use english tech grades too rather than just the adjectival grade if you wanna make such a comparison.

IMO, V2 = about british tech 5c?  So more like E2 than HVS... you probably need sport grades on there though, as lots of people may have tried stuff at walls and they seem to be more and more about sport grades.

[Dave Flanagan]

The idea was for it to be just a very rough comparison but maybe it's a little too rough. The point about sport grades is a good one.

I just thought about a few trad routes I had done recently and what kind of bouldering grade the crux would get. For example Crescent Arete is HVS/5+ right?

[Paul B]

Sulky little boys is HVS too 

[Jack.G]

 

V0
font 4+
tech 5b
E1
5.10a

[Boredboy]

I'm not sure it's possible to make a good comparison of the English Adjectival grading system with bouldering grades, that's what the technical grade was for and even that doesn't work well when compared to font or V grades. E.g e5 6c = font 7a+ to font 7b+

[Dave Flanagan]

I'm not sure it's possible to make a good comparison of the English Adjectival grading system with bouldering grades, that's what the technical grade was for and even that doesn't work well when compared to font or V grades. E.g e5 6c = font 7a+ to font 7b+

I agree, I just wanted to give someone who knew pretty much nothing about bouldering but had done a few routes a very rough idea of what they might be able for.

[Boredboy]

Yeah, I'm sure it's something that's been said a few times before 

Nice looking book btw!

[Dave Flanagan]

Is this a little more accurate?

[kelvin]

Dave - I climb indoors at Pinnacle, Northampton. The route setter is usually Alex Fry and quite often the V0 grade has an English Tech grade after it, we never have VB or +/-. Normally V0 is 5a/b, sometimes 4c but it's not been unusual for there to be a V0 that's down as a 5c, certainly on the slab. Personally that would seem to echo what I've come across when climbing outside.
There does seem to be many a wall that makes the V0 a wide and easy band to get newbies involved but all that does is mess up the V1 and V2 grades as well.

I'd have thought that the Eng Tech grades would be better as a comparison.

ps - it's a great resource BTW. Terrific. 

[Dave Flanagan]

Yes English technical grades would be more like for like but I don't really want to attempt a very precise comparison. All I want to get across is ok you lead VS you should try a few 4/4+.

From what you are saying it seems that V0 at your wall varies from 4c-5c, I'm really familiar with v grades but this seems a little stiff as well as covering a very wide range.

[kelvin]

Yeh - the grading is a bit stiff compared to most, normally V0 is 5a/b but I guess that's were it should be. If there is a 5c move, then it's usually a big rockover on a rubbish foothold on the slab but that is quite rare.

It's not unusual for people used to the Milton Keynes wall to whinge and moan when they first climb here... how it should be 

[Offwidth]

Is this a little more accurate?

Id say you were closer to being right the first time. Real V1 problems are roughly equivalent to me as  HVS leads, being a serial bumbly and for beginners I've climbed with V1 is often nearer to somewhere from VD to HS depending on nerves. A huge issue with lower grade bouldering is grades are all over the shop for lower grade bouldering. They are at their worst in Font then next worse indoors but even in checked UK guides they can be two grades out both ways in the same volume: anything for beginners needs to stress this. V1 only feels anything like E1 for people who are too good to be sensitive at either grade.

Equally real US trad 5.9 is solid UK 5b unless we are talking wimpy sports routes in soft grade paradise. Plenty of Josh 5.9 slabs are UK 6a.

So indoor wall V4-V1 depending on venue is roughly UK 5b and around Peak BMC V0 which is typical Font2+ to Font 4 in Font dependant on polish, which is about YMC Font 4+/ Font 5 which is

[Offwidth]

........  about 5.8/ 5.9 where US grades are used for bouldering and is anything from HVS to VD on lead depending on nerves but more like the crux of an average protected E1 on a top rope and probably similar to f6aish moves unless its super cruxy.