Why would you want to get more people into bouldering?
The jig is up.Quote from: Boredboy on January 08, 2014, 07:32:09 pmWhy would you want to get more people into bouldering? So they buy my book of course.
Guessing you wouldn't mind but I've shared the link to a couple of Aus climbing groups... Some climbers this way still look down on us boulderers! They need some educayshun...
The only reaosn i can think to reference route grades would be to represent the level of bouldering grade in respect to an average crux at the route grade, if this is the case then the table is way out.
I'm not sure it's possible to make a good comparison of the English Adjectival grading system with bouldering grades, that's what the technical grade was for and even that doesn't work well when compared to font or V grades. E.g e5 6c = font 7a+ to font 7b+
Is this a little more accurate?
........ about 5.8/ 5.9 where US grades are used for bouldering and is anything from HVS to VD on lead depending on nerves but more like the crux of an average protected E1 on a top rope and probably similar to f6aish moves unless its super cruxy.
I don't think it would be possible to clear up the skillset issue in two dimensional space. Five might do it?
I found it always helped greatly when introducing people to bouldering. Crap grades for no good reason (much more so in bouldering than in trad climbing or sports climbing) and grade complexities due to inexperience in key skills, are real issues they commonly face so why avoid discussing it in a book designed to help introduce them to the game? More often than not bouldering beginners climb before they become keen on bouldering so they understand how other grades work and so things can seem especially confusing and its nice to know where its the grade, not them, that is the issue.