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[Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
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[Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
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dave
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[Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
March 21, 2012, 10:35:50 pm
Did what I can only assume is a blindingly overlooked new problem at Curbar tonight. Goes up the wall right of Cloud Cuckoo Land.
Starts sitting, big undercuts, up to a crimp (the one you use as a RH intermediate on CCL), then rock over to a mono then hit the end of the CCL rail with left hand, and pull straight to a thankfully steady topout. I think its really good. Christ knows on the grade, but its harder than CCL. Here is a badly framed self-timer shot for the purpose of illustration:
Hopefully someone else will get on it before it gets too warm and offer some thoughts.
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dave
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#1 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
March 22, 2012, 08:45:14 am
P.S. forgot to say you'll want a few mats, and ideally a spot as the landing is all blocks.
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leeroy
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#2 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
March 22, 2012, 10:37:39 am
nice one, I dismissed this as being too hard a while ago
, obviously should have tried harder. another nice addition to the crag circuit.
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Bonjoy
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#3 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
March 26, 2012, 09:17:17 am
Seemed a good prob when we tried it. It also seemed more than a grade harder than CCL, more like 7b+, unless you found some new cunning beta (though I can't see how it would avoid boning the mono).
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dave
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#4 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
March 26, 2012, 09:34:13 am
I could believe 7b+. Hard to say, needs some traffic. The mono ain't that bad though, big footholds.
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BAndy
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#5 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
October 17, 2012, 10:08:36 pm
I did this problem today. I thought it was really good. I'm guessing it's not an eliminate (since it uses the CCL crimp and ramp for the left hand) so I put my left foot on the good foothold just above the little roof (used on CCL) in order to reach the ramp with my left hand. It was good to have a different move to the top to the one on CCL. Two stacked pads with the side of the top one covering the sharp rock to the right seemed enough to me.
Assuming that CCL is nowhere near 7a+ (it feels about 6c+/7a to me), I'd propose that CJ is no more than 7a+. I did really stretch it out from a low foothold to reach the mono so it might be harder if you can't reach. The mono was surprisingly good.
Definitely a very good addition to the circuit
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dave
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#6 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
October 17, 2012, 10:26:48 pm
Good to hear someone's been on this, nice one.
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Bonjoy
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#7 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
October 28, 2012, 07:20:29 pm
Me and Farrar did this the other day. Good prob, even better than Cloud Cuckoo we thought. Would agree with Andy's 7a for CCL and 7a+ for CJ. I'd expected it to involve pulling hard on that mono, but with the right feet you don't have to.
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Gritlad
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#8 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
November 14, 2012, 09:47:10 pm
This got another 2 ascents tonight. I though it was a class problem, much better than CCL (maybe because I can't do CCL...) 7A+ seems fair.
Really good though. 2 pads seemed ok with one stuffed down the gap, 3 ideally
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Drew
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#9 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
November 14, 2012, 11:26:02 pm
Should've had 3
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Dolly
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#10 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
November 26, 2012, 11:45:09 am
Failed on the top out on this on Saturday. Did those of you that did it finish directly or maybe move just ever so slightly left to finish more like CCL ?
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Bonjoy
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#11 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
November 26, 2012, 07:20:36 pm
Pretty much straight up once you have ramp with LH. Slightly tricky move to get the slopey top once you have ramp, then there's a jug over the back.
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Gritlad
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#12 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
November 26, 2012, 07:32:08 pm
Me and leeroy both finished by moving onto the ramp so your rh is at the bottom then same top out as CCL. Felt the natural way for me as I could do all that while keeping my left foot on the ledge/ big foothold.
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dave
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#13 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
November 26, 2012, 07:34:47 pm
It tops out straight up. As lovejoy says theres a jug over the back, much more logical and direct then slinking left into CCL then doing the awkward topout.
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leeroy
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#14 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
November 26, 2012, 07:38:05 pm
back around
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Dolly
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#15 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
November 27, 2012, 10:04:15 am
OK Cheers
Straight up it is then
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Nan
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#16 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
December 11, 2012, 02:28:02 pm
Vid of the problem on here
Really enjoyed it, more to it than CCL.
«
Last Edit: December 11, 2012, 02:34:16 pm by Nan
»
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a dense loner
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#17 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
December 11, 2012, 03:32:25 pm
Liked the guy at tetris flailing wildly to stabilise himself on the floor
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nic mullin
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#18 Re: [Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
January 03, 2014, 04:54:39 pm
Not worth a thread (or name) of it's own, but dynoing from the big flatty above the overlap on Cloud Cuckoo Land straight to the break directly above is a worthwhile addition to this little selection of problems and about 7a. I did this back in May last year, but it may well have been done before as it's logical, independent and quite good.
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[Peak][Curbar][End of the Affair Area][Clouded Judgement][7b]
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