Dear Collective Wisdom of UKBI am woefully endurance- and confidence-challenged on steep climbing, and have decided to try to address this with a winter campaign of ARC/aerocap training.What I discovered on my first attempt today was that I can barely hang on for ten minutes on an even slightly overhanging wall on the hugest of huge jugs. On a vertical wall I can do twenty minutes no problem, without having to resort to huge jugs.So what's likely to be the best way forward? Stick to the vertical for now, on the basis that a capillary is a capillary and it doesn't matter how it got there? Or persist with the steep stuff and gradually build up the time I can hang on?
what's your strength level?
b) wear a helium-inflated vest to take some weight off
Quote from: ghisino on December 22, 2013, 12:04:15 pmwhat's your strength level?Not sure I understand the question correctly.
Quote from: Muenchener on December 22, 2013, 04:40:03 pmQuote from: ghisino on December 22, 2013, 12:04:15 pmwhat's your strength level?Not sure I understand the question correctly. just curious to know how comfortable you are hanging off 'jugs' to start with!one thing is calling them jugs because they are big and incut, another being able to hang on them for XX secs with YY added weight.
On a more serious note regarding the post topic. So for me as primarily a boulderer, route climber, I find the ARC to be extremely helpful. It feels like it's doing very little, but I find massive gains ...
Take a sustained overhanging 6a+ (adjust to suit!) and lead it 4 times, with roughly 2 mins rest between each lead. Now belay your mate for 15 mins. Repeat all that 3 (or 4 if poss) times. ... this regime helped me a fair bit when I had a suitable partner/wall.