[Bubba]

8a.nu are reporting that 14 year old Daniel Woods
has repeated Dave Graham's "The Centaur" in Colorado.

It took him six tries to nail it.

[a dense loner]

i wonder how hard these probs actually are? 8B in 6 tries, that's big numbers.

[Nigel]

Basically, he's better than Gaskins.  :lool:

[Bubba]

I'd have said Dave Graham knows what an 8b is if anyone does.

[a dense loner]

n all the big boys. not bad for a 14 yr old! unless of course he's got the same parents as http://www.nytimes.com/2004/06/24/science/24muscle.html?ex=1088654400&en=caa1695e9f110761&ei=5062&partner=GOOGLE

nah, no disrespect to the young lad but ...

[Bubba]

You boys have just got to face facts - you're all past it  

[a dense loner]

I'd have said Dave Graham knows what an 8b is if anyone does.

point taken but always say you never know :wink: you don't do 8B in 6 tries in 2004, it is really that simple. when people like malc, gaskins, moon etc have been trainin on their board for about 20 years now n sayin that grades are gettin carried away, then i for one will believe that grades are gettin carried away! btw we all know that DG is a monster not sayin owt bad about him

[Jim]

Yeah, but whats he ever done at Wimbery?

[a dense loner]

You boys have just got to face facts - you're all past it  

would like to agree blubbs, but i've never had it

[Bubba]

Climbing moves on and standards rise - the "old guard" always express disbelief when the young up and coming talent piss on their achievements, it's happened time and time again over the years.

Now you've got 11 year old girls onsighting 8a (route), etc.

Have you watched the video of Adam Ondra (11) doing his first 8b+ (route) ?

It's awesome - he doesn't fluke his way up it, he does it in good solid style.

The Centaur was put up and graded 8b by one of the world's real elite, and has been repeated by James Litz who is apparantly on fire and he didn't downgrade it either. Just coz some wunderkind comes out of the woodwork and puts in a shocking performance, it doesn't mean it's not true or that the problem is soft touch, does it?

[Jim]

depends who you ask

[dave]

i bet he wouldn't get up centaur at stanage in 6 tries.

[a dense loner]

quality comeback

[Bubba]

Anyone know who else has done the Centaur if this is the 4th ascent?

Daniel Woods' scorecards are here (read 'em and weep):

routes
boulders

Here he is on The Centaur:


More pics here

[a dense loner]

makes u think tho when he only did 7b+ at hueco. seriously tho i'm not doubtin the boys ability but reminds me of a story. some guy does font 8b or whatever in france, calls the prob maudib, klem repeats it doesn't downgrade it then next ascentionist, a bit more concerned about grades lets say, says wait a minute guys that prob is sept ce plus. now we are all aware that klem is wad etc etc, just like DG. :shock:

[Bonjoy]

That's kind what's happened in Oz too. Klem and Fred both put up probs some of which were well overgraded for whatever reason, repeated some of each others probs without comment, upshot is the Ozy grading system goes crazy cos these are supposed to be unquestionably knowledgable players :roll:.

[Bubba]

God you're a cynical bastards   :roll:  :D

It'd be interesting to see what he does next, and also who the other ascentionist was....

[webbo]

isnt the true blue british way to be cynical  :?:

[Carnage]

makes u think tho when he only did 7b+ at hueco.

Nah, the little sod did Chung Li 8a+ - Thats at the Temple in the North Moutain area of Hueco.

America does seem to churn 'em out tho. I was reading in one of the US rags about some girl who'd done Mongolito 8a in Font at 14 and (Now 16) had done something like every V7 and V8 in Hueco.

[unclesomebody]

after reading about all the big grades going down in the states in very few attempts I have decided to go over there.  I am desperately hoping that the air (or whatever it is) will make me climb many grades harder.  However, I am expecting to get beasted... which will only make me even more disparate about 14yr olds doing 8B's...

[Bubba]

The states is so fucking huge, you'd expect to see a lot of world class climbers coming out of the place.

Some hardcore brits have been to the states and it's not like reports of massive overgrading abound. Go for it.

[a dense loner]

Nah, the little sod did Chung Li 8a+ - Thats at the Temple in the North Moutain area of Hueco.

thanks for pointin that out carnage. if only i knew my areas better. thought it strange when he put hueco n they were all smaller grades.
i think i'll shut up on the subject now since i went to bridestones earlier n couldn't do a V2.
on the other point, every brit i know who has been to states says the gradings amusin to say the least :wink:

[Bubba]

V2 is hardcore Dense, don't mess  :wink:

Amusing - really? names please!!

Anyway, fuck it, even if Centaur is 8a+....check the boy's scorecards - he's 'aaardcore...

[a dense loner]

o yeah, that's not in dispute. there's a fair few hard probs in there :D

[c.j.d.]

Grades, grades, grades.  Its all completeley up in the air at the moment.  8a+ in 6 tries - fucking awesome - if it is actually that hard.  Tim doing hip hop assis in june (in june) at 8b+ - also a fucking "fucking" awesome effort if it is actually 8b+.  Think superman at cragx people - 8a+.  Need i say anymore?  You could also think The directors cut - 8b, or maybe even the neon hand shake - 8a+ (proper 'british'hard grades).  There are some big grades flying around at the moment that maybe are not that big.  Oh fuck, there goes another can of worms...

[unclesomebody]

or maybe we just ain't as strong as we think we are...  who knows.  Just got to go everywhere to experience the different flava's, and saviour them all...

"one man's 8B is another mans 7B+"

[onsightit]

A video of Woods sending 'The Automator' (V13) is at:
http://www.orbeclimbing.com/climbing_news/climbing_news.html

[Bubba]

Lordy, that looks slightly feisty!

What a beautiful place to climb too.

[Bubba]

From 8a.nu

Daniel Woods has just done Super Tweak in Logan Canyon Utah (8c route) on his 3rd try.

[SA Chris]

Anyone know who else has done the Centaur if this is the 4th ascent?

FA: Dave Graham, 2nd: James Litz, 3rd: Matt Bosley, 4th: Daniel Woods, 5th: Andy Raether

It's on the bottom of that page. If you look in that photo album, its listed with the bottom photo. Looks like the whole bloody family climbs. Not fair, genes like that.

[Bubba]

And now 8a.nu are reporting that Charlotte Durif (13) onsighted nine routes of 8a and above in the last 5 days. Amazing!

[Sloper]

Don't know if it's the same yoof but a copuple of font trips ago (can't remember which) I was pottering around cuvier injured and pointing out the famous problems to some young septics over for the world youth bouldering comp (or something similar). Anyway it was v. warm for the time of year and one of the little whippersnappers did Berzina the 'wrong way' static first try  :shock:  (before slipping off the mantle at the top).

Think about it,

First time in Font in bad conditions and 7c FIRST TRY, I also say this lad flash several 7b+ problems again often mising the crucial 'move'!

[a dense loner]

From 8a.nu

Daniel Woods has just done Super Tweak in Logan Canyon Utah (8c route) on his 3rd try.

3rd try that day, the devil deals in the details :wink:

[Björn]

Tim didn't do "Hip hop assis" in June, he did it in January (or was it February?)

[Bubba]

Charlotte Durif has done her first 8b+. In one hour. On her 14th birthday.

[a dense loner]

whilst modelling for a gnome catalogue :D

[Bubba]

A women of many talents.

[squeek]

It's apparently 8b now.

[Doylo]

still fucking impressive, i bet she weighs about 5 stone and has never been pumped in her short life.

[cofe]

and has never been pumped in her short life.

although i'm guessing you'll be first in line  (can we have a basil brush boom boom emoticon please)

[a dense loner]

n she is only 14 doylo, u can go to another site for your kicks like that but it won't be too long before

[dave]

apparently over 14 and its not statutary rape, but you'd probably still be in for a 5-stretch at least.

[Bubba]

Best start rubbing that anti-hydral into your purdy ass in preparation for those shower/soap encounters Doylo...

[irish si]

shit doyle, you rep seems to stretch further than our household!

[cofe]

but you'd probably still be in for a 5-stretch at least.

again, dave speaks from experience  :wink:

[dave]

just from watching MJ in muthafukking porridge, HIIIIIIIIEE HEEEEE.

before ya do the crime, think about the time, shamone!

[Doylo]

you sick fuckers, i only play cricket if theres turf on the wicket  :wink:

[Rhys]

Yeah, yeah- they're coming to take away your computer (and you knows it)