Given it all sounds like a lot of wank, hand movement is a good start.
Think about a dynamic hand movement executed badly. I'd expect to see (from wrist mounted accelerometer data) a rise slowing to a stop, followed by a fall back onto the hold, then an overshoot (as far too much force is put through the hold) & probably a series of oscillations before settling into a stable position.Now what would the data look like for the same move done well?The falling onto the hold period would be minimised as would the overshoot due to excess force.So you could repeat a move & look at the data to see if you were executing it better or worse each time.The only question for me is, can this gadget give you data to that sort of time resolution?
Think about a dynamic hand movement executed badly. I'd expect to see (from wrist mounted accelerometer data) a rise slowing to a stop, followed by a fall back onto the hold, then an overshoot (as far too much force is put through the hold) & probably a series of oscillations before settling into a stable position.
The use of the term "validated" in relation to the algorithms doesn't meant that it tells you how to improve your climbing. What it means is that the hardware and algorithms do what they are supposed to do, which is measure acceleration/deceleration consistently and accurately, and that this has been checked (i.e. validated).
Quote from: slackline on December 24, 2013, 12:30:37 pmThe use of the term "validated" in relation to the algorithms doesn't meant that it tells you how to improve your climbing. What it means is that the hardware and algorithms do what they are supposed to do, which is measure acceleration/deceleration consistently and accurately, and that this has been checked (i.e. validated).There's no way of knowing from the info we have what their data analysis is like. Could well be complete bollocks.
While our results are encouraging, they are just based on a single climb per participant. Crucial aspects such as endurance (defined as resilience to fatigue) are inaccessible to the system and a considerable amount of work necessary until am automatic, personal climbing coach becomes reality.