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Ten Inch Zombies (Read 3131 times)

samuel

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Ten Inch Zombies
December 16, 2013, 08:46:09 am
Thought I might be getting somewhere with this last weekend but yesterday proved otherwise. Beta please!

shark

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#1 Re: Ten Inch Zombies
December 16, 2013, 09:16:01 am
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=9481.0

A hold has come off so not sure if the beta in the above is up to date. Most find it desperate and painful. Only ever seen one person do it and Ive been there a lot.

samuel

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#2 Re: Ten Inch Zombies
December 16, 2013, 11:06:21 am
Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, don't think that beta works now the chicken heads are broken.

Anyone on here done it since?

sidewinder

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#3 Re: Ten Inch Zombies
December 16, 2013, 12:06:17 pm
This problem is on my nemesis list to be ticked off hopefully this winter.

If you are tall/strong enough you can pull on left hand low (there are two or three options on a horizontal line, one looking a little overbrushed), right hand on the RH chicken head remains, RF on the big foothold, pull on and then bump right hand up to a sloping hold directly up from the RH chickenhead (hard to see but is actually not that bad), this lets you work your feet up so you can then go LH to the LH chicken head and either RH/LH to the big flat hold.

This sequence was demo'ed to my by a tall font 8's climber.  I am tall enough (6 foot) to do this sequence but not strong enough to catch the sloping hold and work my feet up to the point where I can get the LH chickenhead remains, which you need to do fairly statically as it is now pretty poor.

I can do Bonjoys sequence if I pull off the ground using the chickenheads, but using these as the starting handholds feels wrong/tall person cheating as you will need to be around 6 foot and on tiptoes to do this without stacking mats, perhaps the ethics police/FA can inform on the legality of this method.

Irritatingly, I tried this when the chickenheads were better and I was shitter and was failing on the move to the flat hold, which I can now do fine.  My future attempts are going to be divided between the method I mentioned above, or standing up off the ground with a high, poor LF, LH on one of the low holds, RH-RH chickenhead and go to the LF chickenhead, or possibly straight through to the flat hold?

samuel

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#4 Re: Ten Inch Zombies
December 16, 2013, 12:45:21 pm
Thanks for that, some food for thought. I'm short at a little under 5'8" so the tall beta is sadly beyond me!

First session I managed LH on low hold, RH 2 finger crimp on what was the chicken head (small hands), RF on slopey ramp with LF almost flagging below. Then bump LH to mono edge dimple thing (probably a non-hold for anyone with hands that are big than a child) & again to the decent slopey crimp, before RH goes to very disappointing sloper. Wondering if I'm off line as I'm not going for the LH chicken head....

Spotted the decent hold (small ledge) after what I guess is the cruxes when I went yesterday but still can't fathom how to get there (barely left the ground this session...)

Bonjoy

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#5 Re: Ten Inch Zombies
December 16, 2013, 12:48:36 pm
I've done this since the breakage of the LH chicken head (the RH one is the same as it ever was) but can't remember much. Don't think I used what was left of the LH chicken head. Seemed 7a+ the new way. Think I started with RH on chicken head and LH in pocket. I'd say that was legit and as the double FA'er I reckon my word goes  :P.

samuel

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#6 Re: Ten Inch Zombies
December 16, 2013, 01:39:42 pm
Thanks for that, I was beginning to think I was missing something. It's a great problem that I'll definitely be back for.

Yoof

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#7 Re: Ten Inch Zombies
December 27, 2013, 05:38:27 pm
I did it with LH in the best low crimp, RH on the chickenhead (fingers stacked), LF high on the ramp/crack on the left (there are several dimples).

Then just stand up and put your RF on the big ledge on the right, get in balance and go up with LH to the big hold.
(I am somewhere around 6'2", but have short arms  :'( )

 

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