Sorry if this has been done already - I've seen a few related threads but not specific to the moon fingerboard so...
Has anyone got any good training regimes, or tips for progression/overload for a moon fingerboard?
My sessions tend to resemble loosely a watered down version of the Rich Simpson sample on the moon site (not quite as strong as he was!).
Generally after warming up I do a serious of two handed 8-sec hangs open handed - progressively adding additional weight up to about 40lbs - about 6-8 reps.
This is followed by 2-4 sets middle 2 hangs and 2-4 first joint hangs on crimps (unweighted - +10lbs).
Finally a couple of sets of weighted pulls ups or assisted one armers on a bar or slopers.
Hangs always around 8 sec and sessions usually around 45mins as power tends to drop of around this time and I get concerned about tweaking a tendon.
Therefore my questions would be what would be the best way to progress/vary the sessions - increase hang/contact time beyond 8-secs or focus on additional body weight?
Reduce or remove weight altogether and focus on assisted one arm hangs instead? How important is the rest between sets - is maximal rest better or timed rest periods?
How best to vary the sessions for routes - bouldering? The moon site is not clear what the sample session is aimed at specifically.
Galina Parfenov has quite a different program to Simpsons sample - how do people think they compare? - i.e. hers contains a lot of frenchies - weighted pull ups.
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks.
