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[Peak][ Mainly South Peak/Burbage] [12+ new/undocumented][5-6c] (Read 1734 times)

bolehillbilly

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A few things from random wanderings mostly in the South Peak from earlier this year.  Most bits listed didn’t require much if any cleaning and proved worthwhile diversions.
Usual two disclaimers. 
Can’t find any records of any of these but may have been climbed before … 
Grades as always a mystery so guesswork involved…

Robin Hood’s Stride
Black Top 6a+
Sit starts as for Cave Problem, goes direct to some chips on the lip then traverses the fat lip left to finish on the jugs as Cave, Blobs etc. 

Nuda’s Tartan
Heavy Gravity 6a ish
From the pillar right of Dave’s Roof use the blocky crack to gain the finish hold of Meltdown and then pullover to standing.  Better than it looks.
Lonesome No More 6a+
Sit start from the big hole hold on Scenic Route and make a funny (slapstick?)move up to stand in it.  Reach some pockets and traverse these right into the corner (Damoclean block almost my demise) and then back out to the jugs of slap happy.  Feels quite high/insecure at the end.

Slinter Wall/Via Gellia
Granville 6a
A squeezed in line left of Tailrace.  A good move but maybe easier for the tall.
Nurse Gladys 6c
A counter line to Coraline starting up Granville and traversing the slots etc. to finish up Beaker.  Tiring.

Stanton Moor (Brad’s Rib)
Two Thirty 6b - Start as for Muhammed Ali and traverse the break to finish up Pulling Teeth.  Very trivial but makes pulling teeth more involved/worthwhile.  Grade still from Pulling Teeth.

Blackwell Dale (Red or Dead area)
Like a Motorway 6c -Squeezed in line between Free Range Abbatoir and the left hand 6b.  Sit start left of Free Range Abbatoir.  Right heel/toe at the left of the break, up to flakes/crimps etc and then the juggy break.  The starting slots needed scraping out but must have been climbed before. 

Cratcliffe
On the low slab below Razor Roof.  This had a couple of old neglected problems including a 6a – Low Slab Right Hand. 
2 new short up problems and a right to left traverse – Low Slab Traverse 5/6a which has a funny down step crux from an obvious sloping foothold.  The rock is still holds some scrittle so might prove easier in time.  Will need a brush to remove the pine needles.

Rowtor
Coy Hinny  6a+  - Sit start the right side of the curving arête on the back of Blood Falls block.  Almost immediately above the cave steps it’s the arête right of Humpty Dumpty.
 
Burbage South Edge/Quarry
Solstice 5+
The left arête of the big boulder below Sitting Duck.   Similar grade from sitting.  Unfortunately the rock low down is not the usual Burbage quality.  I originally planned to climb the right leading rampline but didn’t have enough pads on the day for the void.  Someone followed the signpost and climbed this a while later at 6b.

Sliversmith 6a
This is the leftmost and best of half a dozen new lines on a large undocumented block up and right of the Cioch.   The block is classic Burbage being a decent size, great rock and good landings.  Most of the lines have tricky finishes based around using a lovely thin wafer of grit.  Great view of the valley too. 
Up behind this block is a maze of small blobs of grit.  Somewhere in the maze there’s an arête with some shot holes from a sit start 6a+ ish on one of the bigger bits. 

BAndy

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A friend and I did the rampline on the Solstice block after I spotted your write-up on Peak Bouldering. It climbed very nicely but I was glad to have three pads! We didn't bother with the sitter as the shield of rock at the start looked a bit hollow and soft and it wouldn't have added any quality or difficulty.

 

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