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dreamland Almscliff
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Footwork
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Living With Wads
dreamland Almscliff
December 07, 2013, 05:00:22 pm
So we made the most of a miserable afternoon and headed to the cliff today. Bit confused to the start of dreamland. The two vids on yorkshiregrit have people starting on the left crimp/sloper and jumping right hand high sidepull crimp.
I would have thought you start on the two (close together) horizontal crimps low down? Anyway, managed to do it starting right hand low crimp and left hand on left crimp/sloper. Ran out of skin to start lower down. First time i've ever managed to pull on
Cheers
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GCW
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#1 Re: dreamland Almscliff
December 07, 2013, 05:21:12 pm
Start on whatever you can reach for the stand up. The sitter is a good bit harder.
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Footwork
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Living With Wads
#2 Re: dreamland Almscliff
December 07, 2013, 06:59:21 pm
if that's the case then where's the crux? Starting both hands high up seems like cheating. I once even overheard someone say you're allowed a french start
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GCW
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#3 Re: dreamland Almscliff
December 07, 2013, 07:06:11 pm
The crux is holding the slap to the sloper.
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tomtom
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#4 Re: dreamland Almscliff
December 07, 2013, 07:53:28 pm
Any way to get the sloper is allowed.. I think the crux is probably holding the sloper when you rock up from it. Its best on its RH end and if you almost pull sideways on it you get a bit of extra grip on the edge of your RH (like how people 'nestle' on beastmaker slopers..)...
Its my favourite problem at the cliff. Rocking up then reaching for the high hold from the sloper is divine.
Its never quite recovered from being 'poffed' about 4 years ago - the holds still have a resinous glisten..
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dunnyg
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#5 Re: dreamland Almscliff
December 07, 2013, 07:57:10 pm
French start for the win binley!
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tomtom
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#6 Re: dreamland Almscliff
December 07, 2013, 08:04:40 pm
Allez..
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Footwork
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Living With Wads
#7 Re: dreamland Almscliff
December 07, 2013, 08:21:46 pm
All static, Huwbert. It feels really solid that way, jumping would take the subtlety away from the problem. Yeah it's a good problem and to think i've always just walked past it thinking it's nails. We left Leeds when it was still raining, good ol' cliff.
Thanks for the replies, i'll take the tick
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Will Hunt
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#8 Re: dreamland Almscliff
December 08, 2013, 04:14:46 pm
It's very simple, Finj. You put away your 9 millimetres, borrow our heavy artillery, and crimp the shit out of it.
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Footwork
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Living With Wads
#9 Re: dreamland Almscliff
December 08, 2013, 05:29:49 pm
and who's heavy artillery would that be, Will?
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