[jed]

Just wondering if im on the right lines for this beauty.

-both hands on the uncuts
-left hand to the first hold on  the lip
-skip left hand up the lip
-come with right to highest hold on the lip
-bring left foot to a high foot hold.

The top out im not  sure about,

[Jim]

Go left hand to sloper, then go again much further left to a slightly better sloper, match, sort feet out then there is a good hold further back or mantel

[andy_e]

Jim's on the money with the top. Not hard on its own but easy to fuck up. I get my left foot high much earlier, onto the obvious foothold out to the left.

[jed]

From the match on the prow is it best to go with the right hand or the left to the final holds?

[Jim]

once you're matched on the slopers go with your right hand to the good hold further back

[tj]

So...

Do people match RH next to LH on the 'slightly better LH sloper on lip'? Cause that's the move that I found tricky....

Cheers!

[andy_e]

Yeah, that's right, drop into it with a straight left arm (maybe, i think)

[AlistairB]

Had a play on this at the weekend, got all the moves sorted but couldn't sort the footwork for bringing the RH to the good lip hold. I get my LF on the high foothold after bumping to the good LH on the lip. Fron there I could either use a good low (below start holds) right toehook or try to toehook the starting RH. With the low one I ended up taking a big cut-loose when I brought it out which swung me off, the high one always seemed to pop right before I got my RH on the good lip hold.

From there I was going LH then RH to the pair of bad slopers straight up then a long move left to the good sloper. I guess this is the only way? The match feels quite droppable that's all.

Any advice would be much appreciated, reallly enjoyed it so keen to go back.

[tj]

I managed to haul my carcass up it in the end, so my beta goes like this;

To get the RH onto the bitey hold on the lip, RF toe-hook the RH start hold. The absolute key to making this work for me was to use the middling height LF smear to move my RF on the far LHS of the starting foot ramp (this subtle change of body position made the RH move go from pretty on-off to pretty solid). Before you move the RH though, LF onto better of the two high LF holds, then put the RF toe-hook in. Then bring RH out. Hopefully that makes sense?!

Then up with LH onto top, and keep bumping left into good bit at far left (another droppable move) and another slightly tricky move to bring RH off bitey hold onto top RH sloper.

Ace problem, good luck!

[AlistairB]

Think that makes sense yeah, cheers for that. So no matching the sloper before the big move left at the tpp? Sounds tricky but the match was grim so would be keen to avoid that. Will report back, not sure when I'll next be there.

[Fultonius]

Fuck me it's bizarre reading people chatting over beta on a problem I've never seen or even heard off.

It's quite amusing trying to visualis what people are describing ha!

[moose]

1:45 into this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=J66KE0q2y-8#t=104

[tj]

That's right, I don't match the top slopes before going left. I tend to do it in two slaps across, the second one can feel quite hard to make the distance.

Fuck me it's bizarre reading people chatting over beta on a problem I've never seen or even heard off.

Dare I suggest that you've gone beyond the point at which spending time on this forum is a remotely worthwhile use of your time 

[AlistairB]

Did this yesterday, cheers for the beta chaps. In the end I still couldn't toe-hook the start hold straight away so I used the good low toehook to match the RH to the lip holds then matched toehooks in the RH start hold which felt surprisingly solid. Bit of a pain to get back to the high LF this way but worked in the end.

Going left hand again on the slopers is definitely the way for the top, glad someone told me that. Sketched the topout pretty badly,, feels hard work after the start! Great problem though.