[Luke Owens]

Thinking of heading there on Sunday weather dependant.

Had a great day there at the beginning of the year and did:

Utopia Groove - 6A (Also with the sit - 6B)
Utopia Lefthand - 6C
Wavelength Groove - 6B+
The Shelf - 6A+
Boysens Groove - 6B

Tried King of Drunks but could barely pull off the floor...

Just looking over the guide and wondering what people would recommend in the 6B/+ - 7A range (7A would have to suite me to be worth trying: Crimpy/Technical) The less steep the problem the better I seem to get on with it...

What are these like:

Direct Finish on the Utopia Groove - 6B+ (Looks scary but compelling!)
Utopia Central - 6B+
Utopia Righthand - 6C
The Sitter to Utopia Lefthand - 7A+ (Hard moves into the stand?)
The Pebble - 7A (Really intrigued by this, the guide says the pebble has gone, I don't know of anyone who's done it, 3 star problem?)

Wavelength Central SS - 6C

Heard these are good too (Are they a long walk from the Wavelength block?):

Meadow Roof - 6B+/C (Don't think this what suite me in at all from what I've heard)
Killer Weed - 6C+
Lordy, Lordy - 6C

Any newies up there post guidebook that I should check out?

Cheers

[Richie Crouch]

Lordy Lordy is well worth the walk but can get very muddy on the sloping landing. Meadow roof is proper easy and good fun. Wasn't too enamoured With the rock quality on the killer weed block.

I did the pebble a couple of years ago and remember it being scary as fuck with no spotter. I just clawed my way up crimping anything and don't think it is worthy of the 3*.

I thought gav's arête sitter on the left side of the wavelength block was good fun and easy for 7A, Only 1 burly move at the start.

Fear of a sloping planet is good down nearer to the climbers club hut.

[Doylo]

Might be up there Sunday too. Meadow Roof doesn't suit you know but worth a go. Have you done Paul's Bulge?

[Luke Owens]

Might be up there Sunday too. Meadow Roof doesn't suit you know but worth a go. Have you done Paul's Bulge?

Awesome, will text you. What you keen for?

Not done Paul's Bulge, will check it out, cheers!

Only been to Wavelength once and the 5 problems I mentioned are all i've done.

[Doylo]

The moves on Utopia Traverse (7a) are really nice especially the ones coming round the corner

[Falling Down]

The moves on Utopia Traverse (7a) are really nice especially the ones coming round the corner

Agreed.... Great problem.

[Gritlad]

I think Kris Groove is really really good, quartz-y rock but great moves.
Second Pauls Bulge and those problems.
Northern Soul is good too.
I've always though Fear of a Slpey Planet was a bit log, could never get it to climb that nicely and the start seems rubbish, would like ot be proved wrong though as its lovely rock

[Doylo]

I've always though Fear of a Slpey Planet was a bit log, could never get it to climb that nicely and the start seems rubbish, would like ot be proved wrong though as its lovely rock

not too arsed about it either

[Pantontino]

I've always though Fear of a Slpey Planet was a bit log, could never get it to climb that nicely and the start seems rubbish, would like ot be proved wrong though as its lovely rock

not too arsed about it either

Heresy!!!

Actually, I kind of agree (even though it's mine). The end section is very good though and the rock is perfect.

Go and do Appauled - contender for best 6C in the Pass.

[Luke Owens]

Cheers guys

Go and do Appauled - contender for best 6C in the Pass.

Really? I've never even heard of it!

[Pantontino]

Cheers guys

Go and do Appauled - contender for best 6C in the Pass.

Really? I've never even heard of it!

Lower Satellites:



http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/11/11/appauled-6c/

[Gritlad]

I didn't think appualed was that great really...
For best 6C in the pass you've got to be looking at the pacman boulders?

[Doylo]

Or Mooses toothpaste?

[Gritlad]

Or Mooses toothpaste?

Infact, I second that suggestion.
Look up one of the boulder of the months on nwb for the one near the Mallory boulder, I think it might be a Feb boulder of the month? Its a great block with about 5 or 6 grade 6B to 6C problems and link Ups. I made a poor video that included it but can't link it due to phone.
Anyway im chit shatting, go there, its great.

[Luke Owens]

I did the pebble a couple of years ago and remember it being scary as fuck with no spotter. I just clawed my way up crimping anything and don't think it is worthy of the 3*.

Tried this on Sunday and got pretty close to the top.

I think I was on the right line. Where exactly does it go? I started between The Flake and the V5 on the right. Started on the edges used for part of the Utopia Traverse, starts with a bigish move to a right hand side pull then high feet then holds just run out completely...

Anyone know how close it goes to the mossy vertical band of rock right of The Flake?

The first few moves were really good, keen to finish it off.

Cheers

[Pantontino]

Here's a pic which should explain things:



http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/11/12/the-pebble-7a/

The description from the new guide is as follows:

18. The Pebble 7A! **
The pebble has long since departed, but
this alluring highball line still succumbs to
those with the necessary skill and bottle.
It is possible (and perhaps advisable) to
sneak off left after the high crux to reach
the ledge on The Flake. [original 6C version
Mark Lynden 1984/7A version Mat Smith 1994]

[Pantontino]

I should point out that shorter climbers have to fiddle about with some thumb sprags.

[Luke Owens]

Cheers Si! Looks like I was on the right line, that picture is the move I fell off. I'm guessing that's the "high crux" in the description? Does it brake left after that move?

Cheers

[Pantontino]

Cheers Si! Looks like I was on the right line, that picture is the move I fell off. I'm guessing that's the "high crux" in the description? Does it brake left after that move?

Cheers

Yeah, once you've brought your right hand up I think - dead obvious anyway.