[dave]

check it

pimped out dogs dinner buttress down cheedale yesterday. thought it was pretty fly. positive holds, perfact landings. anyone else been there?

just wondering do any of the probs have names or anything like that, or it is just a "choose your own adventure" kinda place?

there seems to be a traverse anall - looked pretty savage. anyone have the 7-11?

the q-ball on summert there

peace.

[Bonjoy]

Iain Farrar spent a lot of time there some years back, was well into the place. Did quite a few up probs and the trav in sections but couldn't do the link reckoned it was route 8c+ish :shock: . Welford has also tried the traverse i believe.

[dave]

yeah the traverse looks hard and then some.

some good up probs there for sure. also some harder looking ones with wire brush marks so may have been cleaned recently. class venue i recon, shame about the walk-in.

[Bonjoy]

The one time i went there with Iain we walked in from the back somehow which was i think a touch further but didn't involve any big hill and was less of a pain with pad on.

[Ru]

I spent a few sessions down there last year, did some longish sections of the traverse and a few up problems, and did a nice 7b ish sitter with John Welford. Quite nice really.

[dave]

one of the tings i tried was a sitter, 2 easy moves up to a sloper with a shallow bi just next to it - crossing into this or matching to a jug seems the crux. i couldn't do it but it was good though.


and by "shallow bi" i don't mean Liberace.

[Ru]

Did one sit start thing starting on an undercut, up to a shallow 2 finger pocket with RH, crux move to sloper LH, then up right to edge and a jug RH.

[doc]

bin there loads,

the 1st section of the traverse is about 8a(+), ending at the jug. (i saw steve mac flash it some time ago), the second and third sections are good and the last is nails, ian farrah got up to section 3 in a oner. there are loads of sit problems too. i hope it doesnt get polished now!

[dave]

do i guess correctly at the trav going L-R?

don't recon theres much chance of polish, a little boot rubber maybe.

[Bonjoy]

Aye left to right it is.

[nik at work]

That traverse is nuts!
It is stupidly long and mad hard.
Ace piece of rock though (for super sucky peak shite-stone) Mr Farrar sure can sniff 'em out...

[dave]

Ace piece of rock though (for super sucky peak shite-stone) ..

praise indeed!

 probably the most complementary comment i've ever seen you post about limestone!

[nik at work]

Just to confirm my position as the resident king of limestone hatred I would like to say:

Limestone demeans this planet. Looking at it offends me. The graceless tottering faces devoid of clear features are reminiscent of a two-years olds experiments with papier-mache. The quintessential white trash of climbing. It doesn't deserve our company. Look the other way, ignore it, shun its company in the vain hope that it will sink back into the mud from which it came. Or at least be shamed into developing some redeeming features. A pox on that rock and all who climb on it.

[dave]

to be fair i don't think a visit to parisellas will do any good. probably just reinforce his fears!

[Bubba]

Parisellas is a minging hole. About as nice as Tom's Roof and Minus Ten.

[dave]

it would be a nicer spot than the above 2, if it werne't for the ever decaying sheep shit dust crap. at least you can't fall out of parisellas, and its not eliminates. True it could use some dynos though.

"and he walked over and soloed bubbles....."

[Jim]

minus 10's not that bad.
Paresilla's is just a piss smelling hole full of sheep shit (ditto for split infinity), admitedly there's some big numbers in there  :wink:

[Doylo]

parisellas is miles better than toms roof and minus ten, i know its not much to look at but its not eliminate and the climbing is brilliant on the v7's and above. Anyone who doesn't climb this hard is gonna think its shit cos the easier problems aren't that good. Malcolm Smith thinks its world class and although i wouldn't quite go that far its most definetely flavor! Wash your mouths out!

[Pantontino]

Chris is right, if you can climb V6+, Parisella's rules. Wall to wall classic, independant, power - stamina epics. It may be polished, but at least its skin friendly.

There ain't no shitty eliminates here - just pure hardcore muscle ripping test pieces. If that don't light your fire, I suggest you check your own pulse - it may have stopped.

"Cave life - it's the only life I know (ahem)!" :D

[a dense loner]

"Cave life - it's the only life I know (ahem)!"

genius

there is no such thing as a shitty eliminate.  :roll:

[a dense loner]

i find the cave does not suit my style(?) at all, but if lived near there i could grow to like it

[Doylo]

to be fair i jibed it for years. getting into it for a bit then sacking it off. Its only more recently that i've been appreciating it more, getting a lot of the problems wired and doing new ones. Its the perfect climbing wall, where else can you train finger strength, stamina, power endurance and burl in one place? The Cave Life rules! :rocker:

[Bubba]

if you can climb V6+, Parisella's rules.

That'll be why it's no good for me then!

I think as well, I've just got an aversion to horribly polished limestone.

[dave]

where else can you train finger strength, stamina, power endurance and burl in one place?

do you really want me to say it? begins with "B" and ends with "ell hagg".

[Scouse D]

Chris is right, if you can climb V6+, Parisella's rules.

i.e 7a+-
All these new grades are confusing me...