[Fiend]

I know you've already hinted at this Bubba but it really needs it's own topic so every can slag it off (literally Shooting the shit).

 :?  :roll:  :shock:  http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/beta/strapiombante.htm  :shock:  :roll:  :?


Edit: I should confess in the interests of fairness that I have failed on Strapiombante twice due to lack of moral fortitude and stamina. But I have done and enjoyed Strapiombo so there!

[a dense loner]

thank god for that tick. they could have done wi puttin it at one end n another at the other end n someone could have slapped the 8 foot huge shelf between. i particularly like the "scramble down..." bit

[Paul B]

is the article for real? i cant decide...

[Fiend]

is the article for real? i cant decide...

Most people sincerely hope not...

[cofe]

Edit: I should confess in the interests of fairness that I have failed on Strapiombante twice due to lack of moral fortitude and stamina.

i'm afraid i beat you animal boy - i fell off it three (read em) times before finally doing it a year later ( i think i was doing E3 when i finally had the stamina to do it) :roll:

it's a shame but some people don't know where to draw the line......(although some people evidently do.....BOOM BOOM)

[Bubba]

This sort of thing is annoying, I mean Stramiombante is hardly a blind / cunning / desperate / hard to protect / etc route, is it? And here they are giving practically a move by move account with full advice on gear and how to place tick marks. I'm amazed they haven't gone through how to put on your harness and how to set up a belay at the top.

The really annoying thing is people will probably digest everything about this route, flog it to death and then go round braying about their trad credentials  :roll:

[hongkongstuey]

how the hell are we meant to get a good honest sandbag of someone with all this beta flying around the internet?

whoever put that route as a good first extreme lead in the Froggat guide must have been pissing themselves everytime they walked along the crag......

[SA Chris]

whoever put that route as a good first extreme lead in the Froggat guide must have been pissing themselves everytime they walked along the crag......

Along with Long Tall Sally as a good first extreme lead? Must be having a right laff as I think its desperate.

Oops, displaying my trad credentials now. erm.... Nah dude its highball V1

[mozzer]

i'm afraid i beat you animal boy - i fell off it three (read em) times before finally doing it a year later ( i think i was doing E3 when i finally had the stamina to do it) :roll:

"take, will, take... AAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRGHHGHGGHGHGHG!!!"

Thats how it went isn't it Cofe?

Bubba - sorry, but they *do* tell you how to set up the belay - it's all in there. Un-fucking-believable.

[T.H.]

I top roped this route on one of my first ever university climbing trips, when I'd probably only been climbing about ten times before, before I even knew what bouldering was (what dark times), and before I'd developed any ability whatsoever.  Yes I do know leading is a lot more difficult and I have no doubt that I would have fallen off if I hadn't been on a nice secure rope.

But still.

If you need beta for it then I would suggest that climbing is perhaps not the past time for you.

[danielb]

That is totally shocking stuff, talk about taking the adventure out of the sport! Whats next colour coded holds?

[SamT]

F*king criminal.

Its a cliche, but it always just takes a few to spoil it for the rest i.e. 2 people publish shit like that, many people read and digest it, even more people are pissed off at the resulting tick marks, polished holds and trashed gear placements.

Having grown up in the hope valley, for a long time, I considered the Grit edges my spiritual home. Now I cant bare to walk along them, let alone climb on them because now you have to share them with thousands upon thousands of numptie fucking punters who read shit like that on the web and will no doubt go out and fall off it loads, resulting in polished holds,  worn/trashed gear placements, unsightly tick marks, blah blah etc etc.

This is exactly why I'd rather spend my time crawling round muddy holes in the limestone these days.

[/rant]

[Bubba]

If you need beta for it then I would suggest that climbing is perhaps not the past time for you.

That's a little harsh - the route has a rep for being quite stiff for E1.....but from what I remember it's very easy to protect and yeah, the top move is a bit committing but you're going for a massive ledge.
It's a good route and it's a shame that it's going to now going to get done to death by thousands of aspiring "extreme" leaders.

[T.H.]

Yes, my comment is a bit harsh.

My comments should be towards the authors of the article, rather than those attempting to climb the route.

[Paz]

I haven't even managed better than a French point yet.  

I've gone on a bit on the other place, but yeah, you don't need the beta, but the route doesn't get E1 because of a desperate to work out sequence or a cunning side ways upside down rock n roller placement tied off to an opposing nut key.  It get's E1 because it's actually bastard hard.  And it's always been pretty popular due to the beginner sandbagging comments in the guidebook.  I mean, I've seen topo's on the net for Pebble Mill and the Knock with every hold labelled and the complete sequence given by numbers, it's not as bad as that.  They've not been very imaginative by choosing the third nearest crag to S7 and the first route you get to on the walk in but they've managed a reasonable read with some nice photo's, and described an alternative finish I didn't know about.  And they haven't given beta about what happens when you fall off slapping the last ledge..

I don't look forward to buckets of people with shit memories for names saying they've done Strapadictome.  We knew someone once who didn't understand what Strapadictome meant even when we repeated it to him really slowly .  :D

[james]

The Beta Cheater Guide to Five Finger Exercise is now online.  But I am confused, since when did Cratcliffe move to Stafordshire?

[Fiend]

Oh dear god, the horror.

It's like rubbernecking a car crash, you know you shouldn't, you know you don't want to see, you know you should just turn away....but some twisted compulsion forces you to view the twisted wreckage of an article, the mutilated corpse of a once proud climb... :x  :cry:  :evil:

[SA Chris]

The Beta Cheater Guide to Five Finger Exercise is now online.  But I am confused, since when did Cratcliffe move to Stafordshire?

Oh please make it stop.

[cofe]

mummy :cry:

[AndyR]

I notice that Tim Glasby is running a photo workshop so you can take photos just like his - does that mean that Lucy Creamer will miraculously appear in every photo you take   ?

[Paul B]

are these articles appearing in ote?

[RopeBoy]

I know you've already hinted at this Bubba but it really needs it's own topic so every can slag it off (literally Shooting the shit).

This really is quite pathetic, I wonder when they'll get round to how to climb a VDiff.

J

[Johnny Brown]

aaargghh. now the sloth! Will this slaphead ever stop :?: