My partner is very keen to go back, she's a bit funny with the weather so may try and go abit earlier in the year (She rarely likes climbing if the sun isn't out). Would give us longer days too.The little one will also be 2 next time we go so logistically may be easier (or harder??) haha.
The little one will also be 2 next time we go so logistically may be easier (or harder??) haha.
Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".
Quote from: habrich on November 05, 2013, 04:13:46 pmYeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite. To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....
Quote from: Sasquatch on November 05, 2013, 05:55:34 pmMaybe I just need to get on harder stuff that takes a more specific strength. Hmmm ... you do know false modesty is a bannable offence on this site?
Maybe I just need to get on harder stuff that takes a more specific strength.
Quote from: Sasquatch on November 05, 2013, 05:33:48 pmQuote from: habrich on November 05, 2013, 04:13:46 pmYeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite. To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!
Quote from: tomtom on November 05, 2013, 05:42:29 pmQuote from: Sasquatch on November 05, 2013, 05:33:48 pmQuote from: habrich on November 05, 2013, 04:13:46 pmYeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite. To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!Have you not just contradicted yourself. If you need to do different training away from the problem in order to do the problem, then clearly the best training is not training on the problem. Didn't Godskins usually build a harder model of the project he was trying, rather than just working the project.
Quote from: webbo on November 06, 2013, 08:53:35 amQuote from: tomtom on November 05, 2013, 05:42:29 pmQuote from: Sasquatch on November 05, 2013, 05:33:48 pmQuote from: habrich on November 05, 2013, 04:13:46 pmYeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite. To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!Have you not just contradicted yourself. If you need to do different training away from the problem in order to do the problem, then clearly the best training is not training on the problem. Didn't Godskins usually build a harder model of the project he was trying, rather than just working the project.Yes, but no, but yes, but no.... What I meant - is that there were times when I could not get to the problem and to train for it I would practice specific exercises when I could not be near to it...
yeah but 10 minutes of planks three times a week, you'd have done Keel second session and saved yourself a dozen trips to the cliff (of course, I know you'd have gone anyway but just have been sat in a different place)