[Stewart]

My better half is down for a conference in Weetwood, North Leeds in a few weeks and I'm going to join her and hopefully get 3 or 4 days of some quality bouldering.

It'll be my first time bouldering in England (well apart from Cumbria and Northumberland but that's just Southern Scotland really) and I'm pretty clueless of the areas and history. I've just picked up a copy of yorkshire gritstone bouldering and am a bit overwhelmed with choice.

Soooo...what would folks recommend? Sticking to Almscliffe, Caley and/or Ilkley or something further afield. Particular must-do must-try problems? 7A/7B ish preferably. Steep and burly rather than thin and crimpy ideally but open to all!

I know there are a load of lists and guides out on tinterwebs but that's the trouble - too much info!

oh yeah, and the best nearby indoor venue for the inevitable rain

[tomtom]

Caley might be a bit too overgrown still.. Almscliff great, dries fast. Ilkley OK, Brimham is good - basically theres shit loads to go at...

Get on yorkshiregrit.com that has all the crags and details of the problems.

If it rains, Depot, Citiblock, leeds Wall - all good personally I like the vibe at the Depot the most (and Almscliff will dry in 1/2 hour if there is a wind).

[dunnyg]

I would go almscliff - it is good, especially for steep and burly

Demon wall roof, dolphin belly slap, si's arete, some of the stuff on the front of the virgin boulder, syretts roof, all good, with plenty of easier classics, flying arete, matterhorn arete, morells wall etc. to get warmed up on. If you like the burley. This is the place for you.

Brimham is worth a look in, some good bouldering there, with the anchor and stuff around there and crimpy roof being my favourites around there, but plenty to go at in the guide, I'm sure someone else will come along and sell it better, but I think its mint, easy a day of quality bouldering to be had.

If earl crag is in condition, there are plenty of lines up there I would like to dry about 7A-B, but its not really home turf so someone else can sell you that.

Not done much of the bouldering at ilkley, but some nice looking lines round a bout.

Up on the tops round simon seat - not so much burley stuff, but a really nice place to be, and stuff to go at at most grades, one of the best located bouldering venues in my opinion, if the weather is good for it.

Hope that helps a bit.

Or you could spend 4 days at almscliffe. 

[andyd]

Caley might be a bit too overgrown

Caley is fine now (apart from today's rain). It needs traffic at this time of year. Get on it.

[tommytwotone]

Pretty much what everyone else has said, but as I'm bored and have had couple of beers - an Almscliff ticklist, a total, 100% classic (often classic sandbag though but this is The Cliff we're talking about here!) problem at each grade you're after from 6a.

If the weather's as changeable as it is right now you can guarantee you'll end up there so might be worth having some things to go at.

If you knock all these off in your 3 or 4 days in Yorkshire let me know and I'll personally come to The Hunters and buy you a pint!

Demon Wall Roof 7a+
Dolphin Belly Slap 7a
Syrett's Roof 6c+
Pebble Wall 6c
Gypsy 6b+ (though you have to top it out if you want the tick!)
Flying Arete 6b
Crucifix Arete 6a+
Morrell's Wall 6a


Oh, and obviously see the excellent http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/ for info, maps and beta.


Caveats - a) I've still not ticked this list despite living 15 mins away for 3 yrs and b) haven't a clue as to anything 7b-ish...I'm assuming you could chuck Underhand in there if you want something at the top end.

[mrjonathanr]

Fat rascals, any decent bakery will supply.

[lagerstarfish]

if the weather is poor and you need real rock, there is a chance that the steep side of The Calf at Ilkley will be dry enough to mess about on - 1 min walk in, cafe, views, flat landing

[turnipturned]

If I was only here for a few days I would suck it up and do the walk up to crookrise, go do barry king size then wonder along and check out kajala and finish the day off with pixie tits sit! That's one day! Slipstones is mega especially at the 7a-7b range, sulky little boys, layby arête etc. Then check out almscliff and caley like others have highlighted.

Be prepared for it raining the entire time you are here and if not then thin skin after day one, go steady! But it's ace so that cool!

[andyd]

This is a good group to check out on vimeo.
https://vimeo.com/groups/137337

Ilkley goodies
https://vimeo.com/groups/137337/videos/50053272
You'll need at least 2 pads for rocky valley

Brimham
https://vimeo.com/groups/137337/videos/59863344


https://vimeo.com/groups/137337/videos/48624608 -ripple effect prob only soft 7b+ but amazing

Slipstones
https://vimeo.com/groups/137337/videos/36954426

If you have amazing blue skies, turnipturned is right. Go and explore somewhere up high like Crookrise, however I'm not sure I'd go on my own with just one pad. I normally lug two up the BIG hill. Don't be tempted to leave one behind.

Let us all know when you're up. You might get some company 

[dave]

Also, Leeds has some amazing climbing only an hour or so's drive down the M1. Just sayin'.

[Stewart]

That is great stuff guys. Just what i was looking for!

Tommy TT, cheers for that - i like a challenge, but first time on grit I'll be happy with one of those I think!

Crookrise sounds good too, don't mind a walk as long as the weathers reasonable.

Will check out the vids, I'm already psyched!

[tomtom]

To be honest you can't go wrong with any of those places.. But start at Almscliff

[SA Chris]

I wouldn't start at Almscliff. Try somewhere else if conditions are good and always have Almscliff as the inevitable fallback, otherwise you will end up with 4 days of Almscliff (which isn't bad but there's more out there!) Slipstones is a good choice for breaking up the journey south (or back north), as it's just off the A1.

See if you can collar a knowledgeable local for Brimham, as you will almost certainly get lost.

[andyd]

I wouldn't start at Almscliff. Try somewhere else if conditions are good and always have Almscliff as the inevitable fallback, otherwise you will end up with 4 days of Almscliff (which isn't bad but there's more out there!) Slipstones is a good choice for breaking up the journey south (or back north), as it's just off the A1.

See if you can collar a knowledgeable local for Brimham, as you will almost certainly get lost.

I think it's easy to forget how classic Almscliff is as we go so much. Don't put off visiting. You can't go wrong at any of the suggested venues if the weather is on your side

[SA Chris]

Don't get me wrong, Almscliff is brilliant, and bomb proof as a reliable conditions spot, but I was jus' sayin' don't intentionally go there, as you will always end up there sooner or later. It's a bit like Tremadog or Stanage.

[tomtom]

Don't get me wrong, Almscliff is brilliant, and bomb proof as a reliable conditions spot, but I was jus' sayin' don't intentionally go there, as you will always end up there sooner or later. It's a bit like Tremadog or Stanage.

Or Font by the same logic...?

[SA Chris]

Yes, nothing like that.

[Stewart]

Don't get me wrong, Almscliff is brilliant, and bomb proof as a reliable conditions spot, but I was jus' sayin' don't intentionally go there, as you will always end up there sooner or later. It's a bit like Tremadog or Stanage.

 

So only go there unintentionally?

I had a look at some Crookrise vids so keen for a bit of that. I'd seen the one of Mina doing Jason's roof ages ago and thought it looked amazing but never filed where it was in my head till now. I know it's 7C+/8A so failure would be almost guaranteed but looks fantastic. (ignoring the first rule of bouldering - problems always look easier/lower on video's than real life).

Presume crookrise is a bit more conditions dependent with all that greenery?

[turnipturned]

Nah Crookrise is not very conditions dependant. It picks up a lot of wind so keep the place pretty fresh, just be careful walking around there, a lot of holes to fall down (quite like magic wood).

Jason's Roof Bloc can be a bit funny with conditions as it does seep as it is in the woods but everything else dry's super quick including, Barry Kingsize, The fly, Ron's Crack etc as they are super exposed.

I would say its worth climbing on Jason's Roof as its probably one of the best roof problems in the UK, really enjoyable. If you want to see some more footage of problems at Crookrise (and other gems in Yorkshire) check out this video:

 

Have fun, the weather currently is typically 'Yorkshire'!

[turnipturned]

Also if you want more details about Yorkshire, Weather checks on the day etc. give me a PM in the morning and I can give you an update!!!

[SA Chris]

So only go there unintentionally?

Sort of yes. I know what I mean anyway.

The main edge of Crookrise is exposed and dries very quicky, but JR is lower down and in amongst some trees so might take a bit longer to dry;even if it is wet there are lots of other things on the main edge to do.

edit: what turnip said.

[tomtom]

Whatever Chris is on about (I'm not really sure) - drop a note on here when you're closer to heading down and you'll get a better idea of what the forecast is etc... theres people on here who may well be heading out and can show you around I'm sure..

If the weathers perfect, you'll run out of skin by day 2 anyway so good to have places to explore / look around / size up rather than siege etc..

[Stewart]

So only go there unintentionally?

Sort of yes. I know what I mean anyway.

ha ha, i know what you mean. Almscliffe is the banker.

I'll be down on the evening of Monday 4th Nov leaving mid afternoon on the Friday. Will check in for a detailed recommendation near then

[Bonjoy]

I'm with Chris 100%. Going to Almsciff when the forecast is good for elsewhere is a waste of conditions. I've next to never deliberately set out from Sheffield with the intention of going there but it's still the crag I've been to most on Yorks grit.

[Stewart]

If I was only here for a few days I would suck it up and do the walk up to crookrise, go do barry king size then wonder along and check out kajala and finish the day off with pixie tits sit! That's one day! Slipstones is mega especially at the 7a-7b range, sulky little boys, layby arête etc. Then check out almscliff and caley like others have highlighted.

Be prepared for it raining the entire time you are here and if not then thin skin after day one, go steady! But it's ace so that cool!

It's looking as if I'm going to get some dry weather so keen to do this - BK is in my yorkshire bouldering book but no sign of Kajala or pixie. Kajala has a description on yorkshiregrit.com but not one that inspires of confidence of me being able to find it! Any chance of a more detailed description (in relation to trig point, sadcocks, everest etc)?

[Stewart]

It's ok, just discovered the fairies chest bit on grit.com and spotted karjala as well. Sorted!

[Stewart]

Good first day. Persistant rain this morning so took a recce to Ilkley. Cool spot but wasn't too inspired, I'm sure it's good but didn't feel i was missing out too much in the rain. Drove up to Brimham, got lost on the way. Amazing place, bit overwhelming amount of rock! Might go back in the dry.

Rain started to ease off so decided to get to Almscliff. Got lost again. Hugely impressed with the crag once i got there. Did Morrell's wall, got spanked on underhand, got spanked on the keel, flashed dolphin slap thingy, tried demon wall roof - got spanked, tried pebble wall - got spanked. Went back to demon wall and sussed the key bit of beta and managed to wobble my way up last go of the day.

Tempted to go back tmrw now I've checked some more beta vids. But might go for the crookrise trek..can't decide.....

[andy_e]

Crookrise trek for sure.

If you fancy an evening lamp session, we'll be at Brimham on Thursday evening probably.

[tommytwotone]

...decided to get to Almscliff. ...got spanked on underhand, got spanked on the keel, ...tried demon wall roof - got spanked, tried pebble wall - got spanked...

Don't worry Stewart, that pretty much sums up my first few years climbing there!


If you get the weather Crookrise is great, Barry Kingsize particularly so. One thing I'd say is that it's a bit big and the landing's not great, but if you're doing DWR in a session I'm assuming you'll be OK.


Rest assured that I am very jealous!

[Stewart]

Cheers both, weather looky iffy at crookrise tmrw so will prob leave it till thursday if i've got skin left and might just go back to almscliff  . Would love to do the evening lantern session Andy but spending time with my missus in the evenings. Don't think she'd be up for it!

[tomtom]

Don't feel bad about going back to the Cliff... it is superb!

Good effort on DWR, not many visitors who get that in a session..

Si's Arete, Dreamland - both worth a look (7A+'s) and in different places on the crag (wind wise) and easy if on your own (one pad - good landings etc..)

[tommytwotone]

Oh, and if you use the "search the forum" on here for Pebble Wall I'm sure that there is at least one thread which will give you the beta / probably a link to a video as well.

Great problem - lost count of the number of people who can do DWR and then get nowhere on Pebble Wall.

[SA Chris]

I'm the opposite.

As far as getting beta, there's a good 3G signal up there

Caley or Chevin might be worth a quick look, the 'cliff is very close as backup.

[Stewart]

Another couple of class days. Tuesday was pretty wet but i went for a look round Caley in the hope of something dry. No such luck, really keen to get back here though - blockbuster and zoo york (stand!) look brilliant.

So..went back to almscliff, pretty wet there too though and did Si's arete which was dry (bit over-rated IMO!) then Steve's wall which has really good moves despite it's lowball nature. Spent a bit of time trying to do it without the pocket out right. Think it would go using the wee micro pocket on the face instead but would be >7B at least. Then realised you didn't have to top out to get the tick on crusis so did that which was nice and dry as well. Really good. Did silver trout (with block) to the jugs on the break but couldn't top out as the top was wet.

Today I went up to crookrise, beautiful day. Straight on Barry K but struggled to commit to the dyno at first. A stiff self talking to and a taps off approach did the trick though, great problem! Did a quick flash of crease direct as a victory dance. At that point it was sunny, warm and calm so i decided to wander along the tree line to look for Karjala. 30 mins later and it was howling a gale and really heavy sleet and i was falling into waste deep holes in the undergrowth - never did find karjala! Went for a look at pixie tits which also looks great but was wet and another heavy shower saw me retreating back to the car park totally soaked.

Sun came out again so nipped back to the cliff for a quick hour and did flying arete (brilliant), pebble wall (first go today, think i was trying to pull too hard on the pebbles last time) and syrett's roof 2nd go (should've flashed but got scared).

Absolutely fantastic day! loving the grit and have a few hours tomorrow for a last hurrah so will be back at the ever reliable cliff.

Cheers for all the suggestions!

[Will Hunt]

What a great day out. Nice one.

[tomtom]

Excellent! Cliff never fails

[SA Chris]

So, final tick list please?