[SA Chris]

Get there andy. Should be on every dedicated UK boulderer's bucket list IMO.

[fatneck]

On my Christmas list... Thanks guys! 

[andy popp]

Get there andy. Should be on every dedicated UK boulderer's bucket list IMO.

Time for even day trips (not having it) has been an issue the last few years but I'm seriously thinking about making this number one target next year. When is the best, most reliable season? I might have a few days available late Feb but I'm guessing that's too early?

[GazM]

Hi Andy.

 Feb is definitely not too early. 

Conditions are pretty similar to the grit, so best in cool breezy weather, and if you're up in the summer you're more likely to get got by the midge.  I live in Inverness so it's fairly local, but generally avoid it over the summer and start to get keen once the cool autumn starts.  First visit this season was a few weeks back and I expect to be going any time from now until getting into April/May (assuming it's dry!).

Over the winter/early spring we often get spells of longish high pressure when it's clod and crisp, so if you've got the flexibility I'd aim for one of them, but they're hard to predict!

Saying all that, you'll still have a great time over a dry spell in the summer!

[SA Chris]

+1 on Gaz's comments. It's a suntrap and the boulders take little drainage, although the ground can get boggy (not a problem if there's a permafrost!) The boulders are low lying (20m above sea level?) so if there's snow on the tops there's rarely much on the boulders, plus the landscape is stunning in the snow. And it the weather is a bit below par there are the classic ridge traverses of Liathach and Beinn Allligin to do. The NW seems to get great dry spells early spring too, arguably the best time to go if you aren't too fussed about ticking the biggest numbers; pleasant temps, no midges and a bit more daylight. Summer can be midgy and warm, but I've had great summer sessions on the boulders on a bright sunny day with strong winds. Autumn can get good conditions too, but midges seem to get more stubborn and linger longer every year.

[sherlock]

Andy, I've had some of my best ever sessions during January/February. It can be unremittingly bleak during these months but very beautiful. My favourite months but perhaps I'm just perverse.....
Perhaps a word of warning though.The free campsite can be a tad water-logged and it might feel lonely if you're the only tent there.The pub might be shut and daylight is very short. The best bet might be to stay at the Kinlochewe Hotel Bunkhouse,excellent for a post crush dram by the roaring fire.Contact details in the guide,(see what I did there Ian & Richie?)
And Gaz,hope you've got a doctor's note to excuse your absence from Torridon last Sunday.I'd saved you a place in the queue for Malc's but you never showed Perfect conditions,just A and myself cranking til sunset
Magical.

 

[Adam Lincoln]

Just waiting for my guide to arrive. What did Malcs go in at in the end? And for the sitter?

[andy popp]

You people really want me to go don't you.

[SA Chris]

You owe it to yourself.

[sherlock]

Adam,Malc's described at 7B,"taking full line from a crouching start goes at 7B+".

[SA Chris]

Saw it 7a+ before the pebble went? I've got more chance of success on The Mission TBH. Connies permitting.

[slackline]

Nice amusing style of writing, particularly the History section 

[Duma]

Think I need this guide. And I live a few hours south of Andy...

[sherlock]

"I did it on a family holiday.I was sick with glandular fever and even walking about the boulders was making me feel faint ........I remember feeling rotten the whole time.I think I did it in one session then felt crap and went to lie down."
Malcolm Smith

That is a class quote 

[Ian T]

Thanks for all the comments, though the best one we've had was from Malc himself.

"Makes me want to get out from underneath the 45 board and get up there."

[richieb]

Saw it 7a+ before the pebble went? I've got more chance of success on The Mission TBH. Connies permitting.

Yep, it was 7A+ before the hold fell off in 2009.  We thought long and hard about the upgrade but the consensus from various conversations, comments, blogs and vids on the web pointed towards 7B. The last move is still the crux from the crouch start but we figured it probably adds enough extra climbing to bump up the grade again.

[Jack.G]

Had a trip last week with new guide in hand, brilliant, too much to go at!

Any suggestions on a grade for the "wild dyno" missing out the technical shenanigans on the Conundrum boulder's Press problem?

[SA Chris]

There's a great eliminate dyno to the left of Celtic Knot too, i think it's described in the guide as the end of the traverse.

[Stubbs]

I still think Malc's is, err 'full value' at 7B, I've had 4 sessions spread over 2 trips in admittedly not ideal conditions and still got nowhere near the last move! This is a problem that should suit as well, given the angle. I guess if I wasn't so stumpy it might be easier!

Agree with what everyone else has said: amazing spot, which earns its quiet and unspoiled feel by being fucking miles from everywhere!

[SA Chris]

Not my style at all so can't really comment, but got totally shut down and I'm a lanker. I reckon I'd have better luck on the Mission.  richieb has done it dozens of times, the showpony.

[andy_e]

Finally got around to buying the guide. It's excellent, well done! Can't wait for another trip up there.

[sherlock]

Wait til you see Volume 2..........

[andy_e]

When's it out? Will it cover Kishorn and Ullapool areas too?

[sherlock]

When's it out?
Probably not in our lifetime andy!

[SA Chris]

When's it out? Will it cover Kishorn and Ullapool areas too?

Ullapool area is covered already.

http://stonecountry.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/ullapool-bouldering-guide.html

No Kishorn though as far as I know.