[Bonjoy]

What is the hardest single move he ever climbed?

What would he say to the climbers who’ve said they think Shadowplay is impossible?

[Monolith]

What is the hardest single move he ever climbed?

I'm fairly sure I've heard that this is on his own board but could be wrong.

I was intrigued to hear that Ondra went to look at but not try VNB. Perhaps I have the wrong end of the stick here?

I have a copy of CJD's interview with John from the old Gravity magazine interview. I keep it in a vacuum sealed case in a vacuumed room but could try to scan it this week for those who haven't ever cast an eye across it. I tried to get it insured but was told that priceless sacred artefacts are uninsurable.

[Gritlad]

Please do monolith, would be great 

[SEDur]

Hey Shark.

For this interview if you would like, I can borrow some pro audio gear from uni for the interview.

A few interview/spoken word microphones and an extra voice recorder if you would like.
I could possibly even get some lights and or (possibly) a broadcast quality camera if you do it on a Thursday.

Give me a PM if you are interested.

Apart from obvious training routine questions;
Could you please ask John about Brandenburg Gate, and his all time favourite boulder problem/first ascent.

Cheers

[dr_botnik]

What is the hardest single move he ever climbed?

I'm fairly sure I've heard that this is on his own board but could be wrong.

Wasn't that Malc what said that?

I've heard/read that there were individual moves he could only do once every 100 tries, never mind the whole problem. Did he find that process hard? If so how did he deal with the repeated failure and having to give everything to each attempt? Did his faith play a part in that?

How did he his hardest problems come about. Did he know the 1/100 moves were possible fairly quickly or did he just decide to climb a piece of rock and kept trying until it gave in?

+1

Also; did he have many unfinished projects?

[Bonjoy]

What is the hardest single move he ever climbed on rock?

What would he say to the climbers who’ve said they think Shadowplay is impossible?

Fixed.

[thekettle]

Best news I've ever heard on UKB. Well done Shark.

Q: What effect did injuries have on his climbing career?

[chillax]

Excellent, looking forward to this. Still get incredibly inspired by the piece Pantonino did on him in OTE yonks back.

What does he think of his problem Darkness Before The Dawn in Wicklow being essentially renamed and regraded by some due to a perceived hazyness about the description?

[Oldmanmatt]

Right, guys...

I was living in the Middle East during the controversy years, not paying any attention to the UK climbing scene, so all I know is...

That there was a controversy.

Without igniting a debate (ha! Like that's possible with you lot), can someone recap the salient points?

I struggle to imagine how bad it could have been to drive him away from climbing?

Perhaps it didn't?

Did it just drive him into a more private world of endeavour? Are there now, even more awesome, problems out there; unknown beyond a narrow circle?

[Doylo]

http://www.8a.nu/IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FArticleId%3D5741

[Moo]

That's actually a really interesting question Matt. Did gaskins climb more hard stuff that he just hasn't bothered reporting.  He was always infamous for not bothering to report stuff for months, after he'd done it.

[Doylo]

Especially after he got disillusioned by the Bock saga...

[r-man]

How close did he get on the Trowbarrow project? Rumour has it this would have been the next level. Any truth?

And please can we see some of his footage? Apparently he has quite a bit of unedited footage of climbing or working various boulder problems and routes. He told me as much in an email (I've been trying to get names for some of his lancs problems), and said he might do something with it someday.

[Oldmanmatt]

And a mornings reading has thrown up basically the Brock crap (by my reading, this translated as "no foreigner can come to my local crag and repeat my hardest problems, wah, wah".
And that prat at UKC who is the font of all knowledge and recipient of the Nobel prize for unproven gossip, every year since it's inception in 1995 (I may have made that up).
But it has turned up many photos, a vid or two and third party confirmations. So is there actually any controversy?
Or is it specific problems only and not a general "he can't do it/have done it/any of it" thing?

[dave]

And please can we see some of his footage? Apparently he has quite a bit of unedited footage of climbing or working various boulder problems and routes. He told me as much in an email (I've been trying to get names for some of his lancs problems), and said he might do something with it someday.

If he has, then having a bit of it cut into the interview with the Sharkmeister might be a good thing.

[Seb]

More Gaskins footage would be amazing.

[shark]

And please can we see some of his footage? Apparently he has quite a bit of unedited footage of climbing or working various boulder problems and routes. He told me as much in an email (I've been trying to get names for some of his lancs problems), and said he might do something with it someday.

If he has, then having a bit of it cut into the interview with the Sharkmeister might be a good thing.

I'll do my best     

[Monolith]

Fun Gaskins-related tale of the day (told on behalf of the persons concerned):

Messrs Crouch and Donnelly ventured from Liverpool to Fairy Steps for the day a couple of years ago. John emerged from the undergrowth and exchanged pleasantries with the gentle scouse maidens. Arriving back outside Matt's house in Liverpool after the days climbing, a lone Boreal laser was found in the middle of the road outside his house. The shoe was not his nor was there any clue as to who might have been the owner of it.

[r-man]

Stop press!

SCOUSERS STEAL SUPERWAD'S SHOES

[SA Chris]

If he has, then having a bit of it cut into the interview with the Sharkmeister might be a good thing.

Master of the understatement

[tomtom]

Stop press!

SCOUSERS STEAL SUPERWAD'S SHOES

I thought it was more of a Cinderella story...

[superfurrymonkey]

Was he inspired by Ian Curtis/Joy Division lyrics when he named Shadowplay and Walk away?

[tc]

How close did he get on the Trowbarrow project? Rumour has it this would have been the next level. Any truth?

Which project was/is that? Sounds intruiging...

[Richie Crouch]

How close did he get on the Trowbarrow project? Rumour has it this would have been the next level. Any truth?

Which project was/is that? Sounds intruiging...

Sounds like the line left of Texas hold 'em? Futuristic grips!

[r-man]

That's the one.