[Luke Owens]

All booked for a family trip to Font for a week at the end of October with my partner and 1 year old son.

I know these threads have been done to death but I'm just too psyched! I've previously been to Font for a day on the way back from Ceuse last year for a day and we just ran around sabots climbing anything in sight so I don't know much about the area's.

I'm looking to hopefully get a 7A ticked while I'm out there (Only done 2 in the UK) and get on plenty of easier stuff too. I know about the main area's which are easy to get too, any suggestions on other problem's/area's (mainly area's) other than the below?

My partner climbs too and she's psyched for some easy circuits. All the 7's are ones I'd like to try (Not expecting to do them all!).

Roche aux Sabots
Jet Set - 7A
Graviton - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A
Le Jeu Du Toit - 7A
L'Angle à Jean-Luc - 6C
Chapeau Chinois - 6B
L'Auriculaire - 6A

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A
Presse Citron - 6A

95.2
Retour Aux Sources - 7A
Le P'tit Toit / Le Tourniquet - 6B+
Duel dans la Lune - 6C

Cuvier
Holey Moley - 7A
La Joker - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C
La Marie Rose - 6A
Science Friction - 5C

Elephant
Le Coeur - 7A
Le Lépreux direct - 7A
La Voie Michaud - 6C
Le Surplomb de la Loupe / Le Toit du Loup - 6B

Petit Bois
La Baleine - 7A+
Big Jim - 6C

The only reason I've put Petit Bois down is because the pockets on Big Jim look amazing, no idea if this is a good place to take a little one? Anyone know any other good pocketed/mono problems?

The above will probably keep us busy for the week...

Cheers!

[fried]

Petit bois is fine for little ones as there are plenty of small boulders at the beginning, plus a yellow/ blue/ red circuit. Just be careful with the weather as it's the dampest place in the forest with very little, consequently it's a bit gloomy unless the sun is out. The rock is also soft, so take care to let it dry out properly.

I was climbing with a group of lads for the best part of a week and they rated Big Jim as the best problem they'd tried in the forest. Also have a look at La Baleine (7A) and for something a bit easier Quelle conque (red 11) (5C) is a gem.

Elephant is the only other place that comes to mind for pocketed stuff.

[finbarrr]

great list, couple of pointers:
when in bas cuvier, don't spend too much time:
- looking for Science Friction (there is a nice slab of that name in Apremont)
- trying la joker, it's hard as

[nai]

My family's favourite font area by far is Sabot, easy approach, sand to play in and if you can get over or avoid the crowds there's good circuits and problems at all grades.

Graviton is ok but the top holds work better on a cool day, I found Oblique hard and tricky to avoid dabbing but may be ok if you're taller. Also Danjeur Majeur Assis (red 10) is ok if you're after any old 7.

Petit Bois I liked, family thought it ok but beware that La Baleine is quite high with scope for swinging off in many directions (again top holds conditions dependent) and Big Jim is mahoosive, definitely ones to join in with when there's a few pads already down.

Family won't go to Cuvier and can't really blame them, it's not pleasant for them, nothing below orange and everything on that circuit hard, polished and some quite high.  Saying that Duroxmanie is awesome but you'll need a spot.

The problem up at Mont Pivot near to Sabot is supposed to be good on pockets, forget the name but there's not much there.

[Fultonius]

Roche aux Sabots
Jet Set - 7A
Graviton - 7A

On the corner of this block there is Elecubration http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=88539 which is worth a try if you're floundering on Graviton.

L'Oblique - 7A  (one of my first 7As in the forest - not too bad if you are reasonably dynamic)
Le Jeu Du Toit - 7A
L'Angle à Jean-Luc - 6C
Chapeau Chinois - 6B
L'Auriculaire - 6A

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A 6C+

Sa Pelle au Logis is another easy but good 7As in Gorge aux Chats. Enjoy :-)  This reminds me - I haven't been to Font in AGES!

[SA Chris]

Me neither, family trip in spring hopefully

this thread may have been written with you in mind, if you haven't seen it already.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4415.20.html

[dave]

Cul de chein is a good place for binlids to run around but it is a bit of a trek in, too sandy for a pushchair so you'll be carrying in.

[T_B]

There's some good stuff on this thread:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=19618.0

[dave k]

"Graviton is ok but the top holds work better on a cool day"

Did this during the days it got 7B! The secret I seem to remember was moving slightly left to top out. Definitely made it feel more like soft 7A, than 7B

Holey Moley and Joker are problems that took me more than one visit

Le Coeur - Is definitely conditions dependent- tried it on a warmish day when I was bouldering well and got no where. Went back last spring on a cool day (a decade later or so) and it felt fine. 

[Luke Owens]

Cheers guys! Forgot to mention we're staying in Noisy-Sur-Ecole so practically right next to Sabots.

Family won't go to Cuvier and can't really blame them, it's not pleasant for them, nothing below orange and everything on that circuit hard, polished and some quite high.  Saying that Duroxmanie is awesome but you'll need a spot.

Think i'll tie in Cuvier with Apremont. I only really want to do Duroxmanie and Marie Rose. Don't want to spend long there. Apremont seems to have more easier stuff too.

Sa Pelle au Logis is another easy but good 7As in Gorge aux Chats. Enjoy :-)  This reminds me - I haven't been to Font in AGES!

Cheers, Gorge aux Chats looks awesome so will check it out.

Revised list, included the circuits that my partner can do plenty of problems on:

Roche aux Sabots
Jet Set - 7A
Graviton - 7A
Elecubration - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A
Le Jeu Du Toit - 7A
Danjeur Majeur Assis - 7A
L'Angle à Jean-Luc - 6C
Chapeau Chinois - 6B
L'Auriculaire - 6A
-
Yellow & Blue Circuits

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A/6C+
Presse Citron - 6A
-
Yellow & Blue Circuits

95.2
Retour Aux Sources - 7A
Le P'tit Toit / Le Tourniquet - 6B+
Duel dans la Lune - 6C
-
Orange, Yellow & Blue Circuits

Gorge aux Châts
Ca Pell au Logis - 7A
Pareur de Pareur - 6C
Travaux Forcés - 6B
Arachnée - 6B
Dallain - 6A
-
Blue Circuit

Cuvier
Holey Moley - 7A
La Joker - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C
La Marie Rose - 6A

Apremont
La Conque - 7A
La Lune - 6C+/7A
Jiu Jitsu - 6C
La John Gill - 6A
Science Friction - 5C
-
Orange, Yellow & Blue Circuits

Elephant
Le Coeur - 7A
Le Lépreux direct - 7A
La Voie Michaud - 6C
Le Surplomb de la Loupe / Le Toit du Loup - 6B
Le Surplomb de l'Éléphant - 6A
-
White, Yellow, Green & Blue Circuits

Petit Bois
La Baleine - 7A+
Big Jim - 6C
Quelle conque (red 11) - 5C
-
Blue Circuit

[SA Chris]

Noisy-Sur-Ecole

In my Franglais mind this translates to Noisy at School. But isn't.

(sorry - offtopic!)

[rodma]

"Graviton is ok but the top holds work better on a cool day"

Did this during the days it got 7B! The secret I seem to remember was moving slightly left to top out. Definitely made it feel more like soft 7A, than 7B

Idid it that way too, prior to realising that i had cheated so went back and did it properly.

http://bleau.info/sabots/2123.html

I found it easiest topping out legs first and palming my way up the slab, whilst facing the ground, felt pretty dicey.

[finbarrr]

Apremont is pretty dreadfull to get around, especially with a family, "ju-jitsu" and "egoiste" area is alright if you have a good guidebook (not the old purple one). 
go along the low / old tarmac road, not along the high Grand-Randonnee
science friction is a no go with a stroller.

easy access and lots of problems: Franchard Isatis /
And Franchard Cuisinere has many great problems also, though a bit further walk (have to park as for Isatis nowadays)

[rodma]

Apremont is pretty dreadfull to get around, especially with a family, "ju-jitsu" and "egoiste" area is alright if you have a good guidebook (not the old purple one). 
go along the low / old tarmac road, not along the high Grand-Randonnee
science friction is a no go with a stroller.

easy access and lots of problems: Franchard Isatis /
And Franchard Cuisinere has many great problems also, though a bit further walk (have to park as for Isatis nowadays)

At the first part of cuisiniere you get to (just beyond the top of the hill that you climb once you have left the forestry road), there are two very different style probs to try

Beetlejuice and Excalibur

This part of cuisiniere (and the rest for that matter) is pretty hilly, although nowhere near the jumble that apremont is.

[SA Chris]

Agree with finbarr, Apremont is a bit of a jumble, not ideal with a pushchair and circuits are a bit scattered, I would put it low on the list.

[Luke Owens]

Thanks guys, will scrap Apremont, don't want any epics!

Isatis and Franchard Cuisinere sound like better options. Just looked at them and I'm surprised I've overlooked them! How about these:

Isatis
El Poussah - 7A
Little Karma - 6C
Surplomb de la Coquille (Conquérance) - 6C
L'Entre Toit - 6B+
L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial - 6B+
La Power-Lolotte / le Surplomb Statique - 6A+
-
Orange & Blue Circuits

Cuisinere
Beatle Juice - 7A+ (Will have a look, looks awesome probably too hard for me)
Excalibur - 7A
Tranche de Lard - 6B
La Superbe - 6A+
Moondance - 6A (This looks awesome!)
Orange & Red Circuits

[nai]

Agree with finbarr, Apremont is a bit of a jumble, not ideal with a pushchair and circuits are a bit scattered, I would put it low on the list.

Indeed and am I a philistine or is Science Friction not really worth the trek to find it?  We've been twice four years apart and both times my wife's said she won't go back. (yes the second time was a sly trick by me, we left early)

If you want to tie Cuvier in with another area there's always Rocher Canon. Popular with the group we go with, good yellow, blue and red circuits plus a few decent harder things like Kalin Des Kims and especially Chausserre des Prises:



The second problem in the video is from Canche Aux Merciers which is another good family area, lots of lowish circuits, softly graded if memory serves (I say this as the girls in our group managed most blues while normally orange would prove tricky). Not a lot of harder problems but that problem is ok and there's a funny 6C with a lie down start that finishes with a chest height mantle, seems daft to go to Font for that but it's regarded as a classic for some reason.

[nai]

You got in before me.

Re Cuisiniere, it's a bit hilly beyond the area around Excalibur, hard with young kids, but there is a 7a arete Bizarre, Bizarre that's worth finding for a soft 7a tick.

[i.munro]

Might just be me but I'd ditch the toit de cul de chien.

Trying to cope with the hideous polish and struggling to avoid  the recently  chipped holds  in order to get the 'historic' chipped holds  just seemed pointless.

[ben]

Some more suggestions/feedback

Isatis
Surplomb de la Coquille (Conquérance) - 6C
This is a bit of a trek behind Isatis (but worth it), probably worth leaving the family enscounced somewhere
+ you can try Lapin ou Canard while over there

L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial - 6B+
You can also try t'other side of the arete, l'Angle Ben's

Composition des Forces 6c which is in the main area you get to is worth seeking out.

Cuisinere
If you get up into the main area (bit hilly/tricky with buggy as said), the two 'Moutons' are also good (5/6 pattes)

If you go to do Duroxmanie, you should try Festin de Pierre as well
If you're trying Gravitron you could also try the 7a to its left (Gravillon?), l'Oblique and Jeu de Toit

[Richie Crouch]

If you're mrs fancies going off for a circuit, you can offer to look After the littlun' and encamp yourself beneath beurre marga at isatis, should keep you busy for a while!

[Luke Owens]

Re Cuisiniere, it's a bit hilly beyond the area around Excalibur, hard with young kids, but there is a 7a arete Bizarre, Bizarre that's worth finding for a soft 7a tick.

Cheers, will seek that one out!

Might just be me but I'd ditch the toit de cul de chien.

Trying to cope with the hideous polish and struggling to avoid  the recently  chipped holds  in order to get the 'historic' chipped holds  just seemed pointless.

Is it really that bad? It look's a great problem but we'd only going there for that problem and my partner wants to see the Chien. Would free up time to skip it though!

Some more suggestions/feedback

Isatis
Surplomb de la Coquille (Conquérance) - 6C
This is a bit of a trek behind Isatis (but worth it), probably worth leaving the family enscounced somewhere
+ you can try Lapin ou Canard while over there

L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial - 6B+
You can also try t'other side of the arete, l'Angle Ben's

Composition des Forces 6c which is in the main area you get to is worth seeking out.

Cuisinere
If you get up into the main area (bit hilly/tricky with buggy as said), the two 'Moutons' are also good (5/6 pattes)

If you go to do Duroxmanie, you should try Festin de Pierre as well
If you're trying Gravitron you could also try the 7a to its left (Gravillon?), l'Oblique and Jeu de Toit

Cheers, how big of a trek? I'll give it a miss if it's too far.

Think Cuvier will be a quick hit for Duroxmanie then head else where.

If you're mrs fancies going off for a circuit, you can offer to look After the littlun' and encamp yourself beneath beurre marga at isatis, should keep you busy for a while!

Sandbag??

[nai]

Might just be me but I'd ditch the toit de cul de chien.

Trying to cope with the hideous polish and struggling to avoid  the recently  chipped holds  in order to get the 'historic' chipped holds  just seemed pointless.

Is it really that bad? It look's a great problem but we'd only going there for that problem and my partner wants to see the Chien. Would free up time to skip it though!

As said in one the other threads it's a trek, probably a 20 minute walk-in with a section across deep sand proving frustrating and time-consuming, if you have a buggy you'll be dragging it backwards through the sand and carrying your kid. When you get there the red circuit is ok (some gems but there is everywhere) but in terms of easy 7s the roof is just about it and now you have to make sure you eliminate the chip to get the grade. Then there's a committing back-to-floor move/pop to get the decent hold round the lip.  As a classic font rite-of-passage it's right up there but in terms of the effort to get a family there and try to tick a 7a then there are better venues.  If you have rain this is an area that dries quickly though so worth bearing in mind for such days (if you've been to 95.2 already)

If you're mrs fancies going off for a circuit, you can offer to look After the littlun' and encamp yourself beneath beurre marga at isatis, should keep you busy for a while!

Sandbag??

Heard a rumour that Ben Moon struggled on/failed on/didn't flash it, probably not true but it's the sort of problem you can imagine being problematic no matter how strong you are

This is making me want to go to Font now< Easter's a loooong way away and the half term forecast is so much better than the UK.

[SA Chris]

Might be worth checking if all the car parks are open before setting off, we got scuppered by one being closed last time we were there (can't recall which now!)

[finbarrr]

Surplomb de la Coquille (Conquérance) - 6C: great problem, climbs very nicely (left sit start is 7a, i think)

little karma : not a nice as it sounds

bizarre bizarre : nice

beatle juice: complicated (too many holds, not enough good ones)

La Power-Lolotte / le Surplomb Statique - 6A+: very nice

beurre marga: supposed to be really good. i'm sure it's 6B+ if ...  no never mind, i didn't know how to pull into the wall

at franchard sablons:
http://bleau.info/sablons/612.html