UKBouldering.com

Conehead (Read 1889 times)

keefe

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 27
  • Karma: +4/-0
Conehead
October 06, 2013, 08:04:35 am
Hi,

does anybody have any good beta for Conehead?
In paticular, do you wander a bit left at the start of the difficulties on some crozzle-crimps? - and on the move up to the good undercut flake - do you undercut the thin razor flake with your right (the one that feels like it will break off in your fingers or break your your fingers off)?

Thanks

Keefe

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4937
  • Karma: +110/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#1 Re: Conehead
October 06, 2013, 01:09:34 pm
Hi,

does anybody have any good beta for Conehead?
In paticular, do you wander a bit left at the start of the difficulties on some crozzle-crimps? - and on the move up to the good undercut flake - do you undercut the thin razor flake with your right (the one that feels like it will break off in your fingers or break your your fingers off)?

Thanks

Keefe

Yes you go quite right on crozzles and then back right. Feels a bit of away from the clip. Sounds about right for flake move. Bit tricky that bit. Arran will show you the beta, i can't remember off hand.

keefe

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 27
  • Karma: +4/-0
#2 Re: Conehead
October 06, 2013, 07:58:08 pm
Thanks Adam.
I was hoping I'd missed something, as opposed to I'm just not pulling hard enough.

Keefe

Serpico

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1229
  • Karma: +106/-1
    • The Craig Y Longridge Wiki
#3 Re: Conehead
October 07, 2013, 09:42:12 am
What he said. A high right foot makes that undercut move Ok. If conditions are cool you can pinch the holds over the overlap, especially the RH V crimp, which is a bit harder but much more pleasant.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal