UKBouldering.com

Shoes for face climbing? (Read 28322 times)

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 01:56:53 pm
The velcro closure on my one decentish pair of shoes (Anasazis) has snapped. As most regulars probably know I do the vast majority of climbing on Cheshire sandstone: face climbing on walls somewhere around the vertical; its rarely all out edging but almost never proper smearing - lots of semi-positive bumps, ripples, creases and thin pockets. What do I need?

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
#1 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 04:03:05 pm
If the anasazis fit your feet I'd go with the 'verdes' or maybe the whites if you fancy something stiffer.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#2 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 04:08:29 pm
I've found a well broken-in pair of Blancos to work quite well like that. I'd imagine Verdes will soon feel too sloppy.

Recently I purchased a pair of VCS Petroglyphs (purples) which are the ones with C4 and they've been brilliant on everything. However, typically the build quality will be their undoing!

When are the pinks released? Surely they must be aimed at the middle ground between the Verdes and Blancos?

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
#3 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 04:26:24 pm
At the moment the middle ground is new Verdes.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#4 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 04:41:57 pm
I give a new pair of Verdes around 2 weeks before the rubber splits from the upper and at that point, any stiffness they once had disappears.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#5 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 05:37:35 pm
Thanks both, sounds like Blancos probably - I'm so behind the times I wouldn't have had a clue.

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
#6 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 06:08:28 pm
Be careful with them, they're special. I bought a pair that felt fine in the shop, but when I wear them outside they kill  the underside of my heel. I only put them on, on special occasions.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5377
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#7 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 07:21:50 pm
Try on Instinct VS and LU

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#8 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 08:27:32 pm
having worn velcros and verdes most of my climbing life, I tried a pair of whites on a while ago, didn't fit my feet at all

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#9 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 08:29:38 pm
 Whites have changed my life but that's on limestone

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#10 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 08:35:21 pm
Whites have changed my life but that's on limestone

get 'em stockpiled!

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#11 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 08:36:36 pm
What's supposed to be replacing them?

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#12 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 08:55:28 pm
Whites have changed my life but that's on limestone

get 'em stockpiled!

You're joking, right?

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#13 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 09:29:36 pm
Whites have changed my life but that's on limestone

get 'em stockpiled!

You're joking, right?

nope, they're getting discontinued aren't they?

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#14 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 10:03:51 pm
It wouldn't surprise me but having been away and thus not working in the shop I haven't a clue. Scarpa here I come if that's the case though.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#15 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 05, 2013, 10:06:35 pm
yeah sorry, they're cutting us off  :furious: but the pinks will be swell I'm sure, the heel looks good on them but I need planks dammit.

Drew

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Am I really a
  • Posts: 1739
  • Karma: +36/-4
#16 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 10, 2013, 11:46:51 pm
I'm led to believe that the Verde and Blanco (replacements for the old pink), are soon to be replaced by the new pink. Who would've thunk?

In other news, I used to wear the Ansazi Velcros all the time (had 5 or 6 pairs), and now mostly wear Instinct Slippers. On a related note, the Instinct Lace Up which was mentioned earlier is discontinued, so don't even try it unless you want to love a shoe which is disappearing, whereas the Instinct Velcro is super stiff. I thought it was going to be the perfect shoe for me as the heel shouldn't pull off, but the toe is totally different to the Slipper.

Personally I would suggest looking at the Anasazi Arrowhead. Like a broken in pair of Anasazi Velros.

HaeMeS

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 170
  • Karma: +13/-0
#17 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 11, 2013, 07:07:03 am
I tried the new Pinkys this week. Was pleasantly surprised by the fit - as I dislike the Verde and the White. Compared to the old Pinky the heel has a better fit (duh), the last is a bit narrower  :dance1: , but the toe isn't as pointy. Overall feeling: might be weapon of choice for vertical limestone again!

Said to be available round Jan/Feb '14.   

groovedog

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 118
  • Karma: +3/-1
#18 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 11, 2013, 07:41:37 am
Seems odd with 5.10 to drop the blanco, they bring out all those gimmicky looking hornets, black wing, purple ones etc, the whites seem the staple product along with velcros.

to OP what about Sportiva Katanas? I remember them being v good on smeary grit stuff. Not sure why I stopped getting them, I think Sportiva's were the first to put prices up when everything else was still £60-70

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2114
  • Karma: +85/-1
#19 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 11, 2013, 07:49:23 am
In other news, I used to wear the Ansazi Velcros all the time (had 5 or 6 pairs), and now mostly wear Instinct Slippers.

What size are your slippers compared to your velcros? I've got the same and are worrying I've gone too small in the slippers.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11437
  • Karma: +690/-22
#20 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 11, 2013, 10:13:39 am
Always found Anasazi lace-upa to be too narrow, though if I buy the greens too big and break them in well they make a good trad boot.

I would recommend checking out the Arrowheads - basically a slightly more aggressive Velcro with a better heel. These are the best boots I've ever worn for standing on small footholds. They're pretty soft so you need strong feet for pure edging, but they make the footholds feel bigger.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3078
  • Karma: +149/-5
#21 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 11, 2013, 10:26:00 am
On a related note, the Instinct Lace Up which was mentioned earlier is discontinued, so don't even try it unless you want to love a shoe which is disappearing

You've got to be kidding!  :no: I'm on my fourth pair - best shoe ever for me.

Steve R

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 647
  • Karma: +53/-1
#22 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 11, 2013, 12:49:36 pm
If you want velcros, it might be worth trying Tenaya.  Especially if, like me, you find 5.10 velcros slightly too wide so bag out after a while and not perform so well on edges.    Ra's are pretty stiff and stay that way for their lifespan, Inti's are a bit softer.  Both have better heels than 5.10 and a rubber strap over the toe so they don't bag so much over time.  Same vibram rubber as sportiva shoes so you don't have that 'skiddy' break in period you get with 5.10.  And they're more comfortable (for me) too.  They're not perfect but that's all the positives.  Oh, and they're cheaper.  And they wear pretty well. And, the inti's especially don't look offensive.  Whites I find slighly too stiff with not enough feedback for the type of ground and holds you're talking about and, personally, pretty painful for most of their life.  By the time they're broken in, they're past their best.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#23 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 11, 2013, 01:50:32 pm
Shoes for face climbing? You want something with some grip.


Unless you have good balance...

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
#24 Re: Shoes for face climbing?
October 11, 2013, 02:57:39 pm
Ra's are pretty stiff and stay that way for their lifespan

I bought some sized a bit up from normal to fill the "comfy shoe for mulipitch" niche, based on good reviews and the fact that Frau M has some other Tenayas - the ones that look like blue Pinks - that seem pretty good and have lasted her forever.

The Ras are indeed reasonably comfortable and seemed to stick ok to multipitch granite slabs in Ailefroide, but they are so stiff and insensitive I have no idea what they are actually doing at any given moment. I wouldn't buy them again. Lots of people do seem to like them though.

Miuras.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal