stanton island (Read 11081 times)

cofe · January 09, 2003, 12:11:26 pm

how do, thinking of checking out stanton moor tomorrow and was wondering whether any of you cats could drop me any info on its whats and wheres - classic problems etc, where they are and that kinda ting. any websites to check n'all. i know roughly where it is but dunno if there's a secret handshake to get in.

dave · January 09, 2003, 12:19:01 pm

Theres some beyda to be had here, but i think its quite out of date now, but probably fine for a rough idea. I'm sure da boyz can offer some more advice.

Bubba · January 09, 2003, 12:28:09 pm

One of the mags was due to have an article - not sure if it did or not as I rarely buy them.

Anyway, you need the secret handshake and one trouser rolled up to the knee for any further info.... seriously though, James is our resident Stanton Moor expert so he should be able to put you right if he pops in later.

cofe · January 09, 2003, 12:37:20 pm

cheers ears, it on-the-bog that's dropping a stanton joint in the next issue ETA 19 days and counting. wanted to check it prior to the watershed, fingers crossed THE MAN will pop in...

dave · January 09, 2003, 12:40:45 pm

and you say I talk in criminal slang.....

mozzer · January 09, 2003, 07:32:28 pm

cofe, you are such a gangster. spoke to scuffle last night and he has a julie! so's i can't blag his car to come up. Grr!!

james · January 10, 2003, 07:40:28 am

I tried to log in last night but it wouldnt let me. I have just finished a topo for the moor and if you give me your email address I will send it to you.
Cheers

James

Avoiding the Traitor · January 10, 2003, 08:33:36 am

Quote from: "james"

I tried to log in last night but it wouldnt let me. I have just finished a topo for the moor and if you give me your email address I will send it to you.
Cheers

James

Have sent u one.

dave · January 10, 2003, 08:55:12 am

Quote from: "james"

I have just finished a topo for the moor and if you give me your email address I will send it to you.

I think cofe was off there this morning, but I'll have a topo if you don't mind for future reference, so check your PMs.

Mozzer, do you know by any chance how 5-knuckle-scuffle is getting on with the ol' font vid? cheers.

fatboySlimfast · January 10, 2003, 10:23:19 am

My you boys are so ghetto
in my crib about to get me shit on and go climbing, i presume that is what the slang above is referring to.....
the youth of today, now in my day climbing was proper hard none of this fashionable nonsense you get today blah blah blah blah

Bubba · January 10, 2003, 10:25:26 am

shaddap don bloody whillans!! You tosser going climbing today, I hate you - you out tomorrow?

fatboySlimfast · January 10, 2003, 10:28:31 am

yeah poss, more likely to go biking tomoz then climbing sunday
depends howz i feel.looking good for today though heh heh hehe
gis a ring tomorrow

Bubba · January 10, 2003, 10:46:27 am

ok, will do - check forcasts tomozz - sunday was looking worse but now the met office has changed it's bloody mind again.

james · January 10, 2003, 12:00:41 pm

Have sent Topos to Dave and Craghead. Anyone else?
Cheers

James

Bubba · January 10, 2003, 12:03:13 pm

Yes please James!

dave · January 10, 2003, 12:36:45 pm

Ha ha, just had John on the mobile wanting directions from James' topo. I feel a bit like that guy in The Matrix......

"We need problems, lots of problems......"

Nigel · January 10, 2003, 01:19:35 pm

Sent you an e-mail. Cheers.

mozzer · January 10, 2003, 02:34:23 pm

Dave, I spoke to him but as he is getting some for the first time in ages he reckons he's finished "about 45 seconds worth".

So, not very far to be honest.

dave · January 10, 2003, 04:14:57 pm

Fair do's to him, if you've got a bird hanging off your woody you've got to make the most of it. :wink:

Bubba · January 10, 2003, 06:05:40 pm

Quote from: "dave"

bird hanging off your woody

Fnarr!

Mark Lloyd · January 10, 2003, 10:04:42 pm

Hi James, I wouldn't mind a copy of the topo for stanton moor, there seems to be lots more new stuff since I last went.
I noticed you live in Matlock have you done anything in the quarries ?
I went after work last year and soloed a few routes but it was a bit overgrown at the top.

james · January 11, 2003, 08:03:52 pm

Give me your email and Ill send you one. I have done a bit in the matlock quaries. There is a project E7/8 if you fancy it.
Cheers

James

Pantontino · January 12, 2003, 01:55:53 pm

James, can I have a babycham too. Or a topo if you like.
I've wanted to see this crag for ages.
Cheers, Simon.

fatboySlimfast · January 12, 2003, 06:31:17 pm

Why not give a copy to Bubba ,James and we can all have a peak in some downloadable form?
pantonio how is new bambino? Everything ok over in the land of close harmony singing, whats the low down on cae Du(spelling ????)looks good from the photos ive seen. Trying to get me year bit more planned out so want to get to some new areas!!Hope uve manged to get out recently.

Bubba · January 12, 2003, 07:12:17 pm

It's alright geez, James has already sent me one - I'll mail you one over.

How are your thighs after todays mudfest?

james · January 12, 2003, 07:45:56 pm

Yep, you can have a topo. Whats your email. Tell me when you are thinking of coming over and i'll show you round if you like.
Cheers

James

tommytwotone · January 13, 2003, 08:58:24 pm

hi, cool board the way!

me and a few of my boyz went up to Stanton Moor on sunday, but were blighted by a general bad sense of direction and the older topo posted on the link above (the gritbouldering thingy).

i think we didn't actually find the climbing, although we did climb a rather fine slopey rising traverse which felt about B4ish (sorry about the old skool grading, my grasp of V grading is crap)

James, can you please mail me a better guide? I would be as grateful as when you gave me the beta on that Cratcliffe B7 near Jerry's Traverse!

:worthy:

james · January 13, 2003, 09:08:11 pm

No problem, just give me your email.
Cheers

James

justfunk_ · January 15, 2003, 10:39:33 am

Please sir can i have a copy?

Stanton is a grrrrreat place.

james · January 15, 2003, 10:43:25 am

Ok son, but only if your'e good :D .
Cheers

James

Percy B · January 15, 2003, 03:56:48 pm

Thought I'd add my bit to this thread. I wrote an article on Stanton Moor for OTE, and this should be out in a couple of weeks. This has a fairly up to date (as of last Autumn) topo in it, as well as some nice piccies and a map, etc. Its not comprehensive, but documents a lot of the classic stuff (a lot of which has since been claimed by other parties thinking they had found new lines).

Publishing this info is not a decision I came to easily, as I know that publicising the area will lead to increased traffic. However, I have been persuaded by various folks that an area such as Stanton is a more esoteric, 'enthusiasts' area which will never get too busy as there's not vast numbers of problems and the classic things are hard to find (the map I drew for OTE will prove this, as OTE's editor couldn't find any of the problems using it)! I hope I have made the right choice, and the area will not get trashed. These are the reasons why I have in the past prevented magazines publishing updated topos I have compiled for areas such as Eagle Tor and Rowtor Rocks. Indeed, I even decided not to let Mike publish these on this site, after I visited Eagle Tor last year and found the whole place covered in litter, tick marks, chalk, etc.

Hopefully my article will persuade a few hardy souls to venture forth onto the moor, and take the pressure off other nearby areas which are getting fucked up by idiots who have seen too many American bouldering videos.

Just remember, keep a low profile, keep the noise down (especially 'power screams'), brush you're chalk off the holds when you're done, use a mat and don't cover the rock in 'Rookie stripes' (as I like to call tick marks). Follow these rules, and there's hope for us all!

Here endeth the sermon. :up:

Bubba · January 15, 2003, 05:54:21 pm

Percy, I was never going to publish that Eagle topo on here anyway! Unfortunatley I know who those tick marks were, a certain medical poster on this very site who is renowned for liking his ticks, but personally, they get brushed off if they're ever used.

Publicising any area is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, it's good that quality problems are getting done and don't just revert back to green obscurity, but on the other hand a fragile area can easily be wrecked. I agree that Stanton the sort of area that's only going to appeal to the dedicated, as like you say, problems are hard to find, and there's a lot of walking involved. Eagle and Rowtor luckily never seem to get that busy, probably due to the proximity of the more easily accessed Cratcliffe/RHS.

Given the mess that Stanage and Burbage are becoming, if guides to more obscure areas help spread that load a bit, then maybe that's not such a bad thing.

On the littering and overchalking front there is no excuse - people need to realise that our bouldering areas are a precious resource and some are also on land where access could easily be forbidden. If this ever gets out of hand, then perhaps Bishop style cleanups could be organised - I know I'd participate....

And as for "Power screams" - well if Malcolm Smith doesn't need them, then I'm sure the rest of us can dispense with them too - they're fucking
annoying.

dave · February 07, 2003, 01:16:53 pm

Anyone seen this:

looks like a fantastic problem.

Bubba · February 07, 2003, 01:35:44 pm

Yeah, looks awesome - who's site is that then?

Is that James I can hear in the background??

dave · February 07, 2003, 01:39:19 pm

That link was on planetfear, on the OTE page.

james · February 07, 2003, 03:59:12 pm

Yes thats me.
Cheers

James

james · February 07, 2003, 04:03:19 pm

Woohoo, i've not been able to post for the last few days and it finaly worked.
You may have also noticed that it was piss wet when he did it so extra fine effort.
Cheers

James